jaysonwilko

Thanks Richard, I will be conducting more tests as soon as I order more Ektachrome stock, thanks for the input.

Thank you. some excellent information in there that I hadn't thought to consider. Thanks for the response. But back to the original question, as long as I compensate for the light loss in the viewfinder does the process listed above sound like a good one? some of the stuff Ive shot in the past looks good but some of the shadows are a little crushed on Ektachrome 100D but I shot that stuff when I first got the camera and have refined the process a little since then. Ive got some Vision 2 500T that I need to get processed and I can't wait to see the results from that.

Hi. I posted the following in the super 8 forum but I doubt many people visit that area much so I'm re-posting here in General discussion area. I've got a Eumig Makro Sound 66XL with a shutter angle of 225 degrees. I use a Polaris light meter to find exposure (I am saving money for a proper light meter but this was cheap and accessible to me at the time.) The light meter is designed for stills (uses shutter speed rather than shutter angle) but I want to make sure I am doing my calculations correct. I set my ISO to my film stock. Here is the tricky part, a 225 degree shutter angle works out to 1/40 (rounded up from 38.4). My light meter doesn't show a reading for 1/40 so I take a reading at 1/30 and another at 1/50. The difference is usually about 1/3 to 2/3 of a stop. I set my exposure based on this number and try to favor slightly underexposing to overexposing. Does this sound like a good/accurate process for determining exposure based on my limited equipment? Any input or tips from more experienced film makers is welcome. I am here to learn. Thanks, Jayson L. Wilkins

Hi. I've got a Eumig Makro Sound 66XL with a shutter angle of 225 degrees. I use a Polaris light meter to find exposure (I am saving money for a proper light meter but this was cheap and accessible to me at the time.) The light meter is designed for stills (uses shutter speed rather than shutter angle) but I want to make sure I am doing my calculations correct. I set my ISO to my film stock. and then the tricky part. A 225 degree shutter angle works out to 1/40 (rounded up from 38.4). My light meter doesn't show a reading for 1/40 so I take a reading at 1/30 and another at 1/50. The difference is usually about 1/3 to 2/3 of a stop. I set my exposure based on this number and try to favor slightly underexposing to overexposing. Does this sound like a good/accurate process for determining exposure based on my limited equipment? Any input or tips from more experienced film makers is welcome. I am here to learn. Thanks, Jayson L. Wilkins

Thank you for the response. I am very pleased. That question has been gnawing at my brain for a while.

I am a bit confused about something that probably has a simple answer. I am confused about rating cameras with the 18% grey card test. RED, the Alexa and many other digital cinema cameras have a range of IE settings but I keep reading about DPs "rating a camera" at a particular EI (RED 320, Alexa 800, and so forth) is this simply the EI that is the optimal EI setting for that particular camera or am I missing something else here? This has been bugging me for a while as I learn more and more. Love to hear the answer and thank you for sharing your knowledge with a guy just getting started. Thanks, Jayson L. Wilkins

Thanks guys. Most helpful.

Does anyone have a clue what stocks were used for the 1972 film Jeremiah Johnson? I want to say Kodachrome (RIP) but wonder if anyone has this info officially.

Thanks Adrian. Didn't think of that. Excellent info. Any specific brands you like?

The best thing about film school for me was the gear availability. I was able to work with a lot of gear that otherwise I wouldve had to rent. And at the end of it I had a degree. So it worked out well in that respect. Also you have a built in support system and access to info. As far as working...get info from the state film office. I'm sure they have resources to help you find employment.

I want to learn to use a light meter. But many peers tell me that with digital there is no use because you can check your exposure in the viewfinder or monitor. I'm still going to learn but am curious about what the differences are between film and digital I'm terms of using a light meter. Thoughts?

So when a film stock or sensor is able to reproduce a greater number of colors across the spectrum it is said to have more color latitude?

I've seen the phrase "color latitude" pop up several times in various articles but I'm not sure what it means exactly. Could someone point me in the direction of an article or explanation please?