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Chris Dalton

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  1. Most people are using something like the SRW/SRPC-1 HDCAM SR deck to record footage from the Weisscam. The Digimag is a good option if you want to venture down the Raw workflow path. A P2 recorder like the HPM110 is a good easy workflow option but a lot more compression at 100Mbps. HDCam SR is something like 400, or up to over 800Mbps. and will transfer at more that twice real time in the 60 frame mode. The two biggest things I find in favor for the Weissecam are the instant full res playback (no render time), clean lower noise picture and no need to black balance 5 billion times a day like you do on the Phantom. but yes it is big.
  2. just to throw another opinion in the mix, I like 500 as a good Base for the MX Sensor. Red lists 800, but they did that as soon as Arri announced the Alexa. 800 is still a clean enough signal to work with, but I think 500 is the right answer. What ever you do Protect your highlights.
  3. a few things to do when you have a major issue like this. First of all for no audio, make sure that you are not in Varispeed mode. This will disable your audio. Also make sure that you have set up the record enable to line or mic, and that you have your headphone mix set to hear your audio. Next if you are sure your settings are correct and you don't have a faulty cable go to the standard Red Glitch Fix. First power down the camera, wait a few seconds and start it back up. Think of it like a crashing PC when it does that sort of stuff. next if all else fails, reload the firmware. this can be downloaded from www.Red.com/support find your Build number (eg. 30.5.0) and follow the instructions to put it on an SD Card (1gig or smaller only). This is the Big Fix before things get sent back to Red for repair. Make sure to do a Black Balance after reloading the Firmware or updating it. I hope this helps.
  4. HI Mike, the biggest problem with D-21 and stereo recording is the lack of a way to genlock. you would have nothing but phase issues. I believe the Alexa does include Genlock so if you are able to wait it might be worth it. Otherwise I would recommend the F35 from Sony. It will give you a very clean signal, and still allow you to work with Speed Grade to do any on set Look up Tables. Red can have phase issues even when Genlocked and F-900 will keep you working to stay in any sort of calibration. I'm not an expert in 3D but I hope this helps.
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