Micbress

Martin and Chris, thank you for the replies. Yes, it's true, there isn't a manual zoom or manual exposure but the only real leak, for me, is the related to the manual zoom. Othrewise eveything seems to be pretty fun to use and practical; and i must say that i've paied for the camera 11$, in "new" condition. Regarding the filter/notch/exposure situqtion i have to say that today i've made a short test loading a 7266 into the camera. Considering that the tri-x dosen't have the notch the internal filter is deactivate permitting the correct ASA reading; so my Yashica with an unnotched tri-x will read the film correctly, as 200 ASA. After that i've tried to use the filter key to activate the internal filter, in order to see the differences between exposure values, but nothing changed. If i press the internal filter pin, from the film chamber, i have the normal +/- 1 stop value. So i presume that something's wrong with the filter key, considering that i did not saw any aperture changing? If the filter key is out of question due to technical problems i wil need to resolve everything using the notch pin, which is activate/deactivate from the cassette. An regarding that i have my final question... The tri-x will automatically remove the internal filter and the camera will read correctly the film as 200ASA. If i want to use an external 85B filter i will have an exposure cut of 2/3. Considering that the camera uses TTL metering why do i have to +1 ? The filter will just cut the light amount and not influence the ASA reading. With the Nizo i use the Tri-X with the bulb setting, in order to have it read at ASA 160, and i manually compensate closing the F 2/3, in order to do not have it overexposed, but in this case we're talking about ASA160, and the Yashica will read ASA200...please, correct me if i'm wrong. If i use Vision 200 i will have to deactivate somehow the internal filter (if i'm not trusting it due to its age etc). So, can i also fill a notch? I'm asking because if the filter key dosn't work (as it seems...) my only possibility is to use and trust the internal filter or deactivate it and use an external one. My main question is about the metering with and without the filter. The camera has a backlight and spotlight mode, which mean +1 and -1, using the tri-x with external filter (-2/3) and +1 will be ok? Considering the correct ASA reading of the camera does the +1 still necessary? I think that you guys understant my uncertainty so i will stop here with the questions and explanations :) Thank you

Martin, thank you for your helpful reply. Everything's clear now about the camera, the filter & notch. Considering that the tri-x 7266 will remove the internal filter, and the 200T vision in notched in order to let the filter in use, now the only true question is about the reading of the ASA. Officialy the camera reads correctly any ASA between 25 and 400, so both the tri-x and the vision should be read at their correct ASA value. I'm a littble bit suspicious about that because it seems to easy; i normally use a Nizo Pro which dosn't have this "ability", neither the F32 at one end...i mean, this Yashica 600 electro is that good?? :)... F 1.8 - F 32, correct ASA reading, exposure compensation etc...and i bought it for a one time project, in which , at the end, the camera should have fallen from a top floor.

hi and thx for the reply i've found the original manual of the camera and the clear specification that the camera will automaticaly set the ASA between 25 and 400 ASA, so the Vision 200 will be at 200, if everything work as they say. But now the "real problem" is connected mostly about the built in filter of the camera. There is absolutly no specification of it the the manual and www i've found that is the standard 85A, as normal. But there is no any possibility to operate the filter; no tungsten/sun switch, nothing. So working with a 200T stock, needing the filter for the outdoor shots....what would be the settings?

hi everybody, i've just bought a Yashica 600 electro wich i intend to use with Vision 200T stock. Doing my searching on the web i've noticed that i can't find any exact information regarding the "usual problems", the correct exposure of the film and the use of the built-in daylight filter. I found that: exposure: auto and manual exposure control; TTL EE film speed: auto between 25 and 400 ASA exposure compensation: +/- correction for auto CCA filter: built-in 85A filter, coupled with movie light socket So what will happend using a 200T with this camera? will auto set at 200ASA? If not, what will be the correct procedure to follow? Any advice will be very helpful.

many views but no answer :) I will send the material to Andec like that, hoping that will be ok...i was just hoping to have some infos regarding that, in order to know if i will be able to see something or not :)

Hi, today i've shot some outdoor tri-x with my Nizo Pro, i've used the bulb/tungsten settings to have the film at 160ASA. I know that to compensate the film and have it correctly exposed at "its normal 200 value" i had to underexpose manually with 1/3...but i've used almost all the time an ND2 filter (in sunny/normal daylight conditions) that cut off 1 stop ( ex: from 5.6 to 4 ). Now my worry is connected to the exposure: letting the camera on Automatic and using the ND2 filter will give me an underexposed result or will be fine, considering the adding of contrast and the fact that the reversal is better underexposed? Now i have a big doubt: if i let the ND2 filter on (that will cut off 1 stop) i must also compensate with -1/3 or the filter will be enough? Will the ND2 filter used with Tri-x in outdoor shooting be too much and underexpose everything or will it offer some extra contrast and more "drammatic" blacks ? Any info or advice will be much appreciated! thank you all

Today i did my first try with the 500T and 200T stock; indoor scenes with poor light, 2 normal bulbs. The camera on automatic was set at F 1.8, sometimes a little more, at the right end of the value scale of the Nizo pro. Considering the 500T i 've used this value , avoiding to compensate putting the F at 2.8. So my questions are: 1- will be everything overexposed or just ok, considering that the color negative is better a bit overexposed? 2- In poor light conditions like indoors or night shots the indicator of the exponometer will alwayd be at the right end , so in any case we must compensate? For the night shots and indoors what will be the best solution? Let the value of the automatic metering (considering the low light), compensate or just use the automatic B function, to let the camera do the job? Thx

The program and the scrip are pretty hard to use :P I visited your site and is really strange that you don't offer any kind of post-processing service, considering your results...:). I'd love to try it. great great job!!

hi, the black and white is better a bit underexposed (we're talking about Tri-x 7266), the color negative will be better if overexposed (+1/3).

Steve, thank you for your answer, i like the result but i have some doubts regarding the image at the edges. It looks like the outter ring enter the image, and if so this wont be a real gain. I will try to find some other clips in order to see if the "edges problem" is something typical for the Ultra Wide 3

Reading the forum i've seen several topics with these questions so i've thought to fuse all into this, considering that i also need some advices.. I will start posting what i know and i've learned here, so i will ask you to correct me if i do mistake I've calculated everything considering my camera, Nizo Pro, only 100 and 160 ASA reading. KODAK Vision 3 200T Will be read at 160ASA on the bulb setting. Still 1/3 overexposed but will be ok for the negative, nicer grain, more density. But if shooting outdoor, lets say in a sunny day, we must put on an external 85B filter because the Vision in tungsten balanced. In this case we have a drop of -2/3 from the filter and a exposure value almost correct; here we can compensate a little overexposing to make popup the colours. Can we set the film on daylight filter to have it at 100ASA (+2 overexposed) and just put on the external 85B to have a cut of 2/3 and still have it overexposed? KODAK Vision 3 500T If set the camera filter on bulb and have -1 stop from that value we have the film at 320ASA, still 2/3 overexposed, nice for granulation. For use it outdoor we must add the 85B filter and we will have (probably) a right exposure with correct tones (85B), because the lightmeter will compensate what the 85B has eat. Other suggestions? What about shooting indoors with natural light, no tungsten? What will be the best solution for the Vision films? in poor light condition we must use the 85B to avoid cold tones, even if there isnt a tungsten source? KODAK 100D Daylight reversal film that can be used on daylight filter, this way will have it at 100ASA. In Daylight conditions with the internal filter on, we can add an ND2-4 filter for have it a bit underexposed, better for reversal. What about the use of this stock for interior shooting? Just manually overexposing by opening the iris or set the film on bulb to have it read at 160ASA? KODAK 64T 64ASA tungsten film that the Nizo pro read at 100ASA on daylight filter. for outdoor shooting let the daylight filter on an add an external 85B for color correction and for the -2/3 exposure. At this point, whit the 85B on and -2/3 exposure, if will be ok to underexpose another 1/3? hope that the topic and all the possible answers will help thx

Or you think that the correct value will be obtained using a ND6 -3 Stop, underexposed 1/8? I think that may be good, considering that at -1/4 we have the "correct value" and at -1/8 we have it underexposed, ok for reversal.

Anthony, an ND 6 filter isnt too much? if we have the film on bulb at 160 for compensate we underexpose with 1/3 and considering that the reveras is better a bit underexposed i think we can set from the start a -1 value from the meter reading, but adding an ND6 filter that presume -2 isnt too much? I tought that maybe an ND2 -1 stop will be the right choise, put-on the camera at 160 without underexpose the 1/3, i'm just asking, please correct me if i' wrong. Thank you

but what about keep all the time on the lens an UV filter? A good one will not neccesitate compensation, right?

Hi everybody, i intend to buy the lens but i was wondering if somebody does have any sample uploaded somewhere....i've checked youtube without results. Does it change the situation so radically? The distorsion is very visible? I'd love to have the possibility to film interiros and wide shots but i really don't know how reliable are the results from this lens. Any kind of review or personal experience are welcome!!! Thx a lot