Darn Thorn

7 pin Tuchel to 4 pin XLR Cable

Hi All, I'm trying to power an ESM motor. In the past I used a heavy 12v motorbike battery, but wanted to swap out to something lighter. Do you think these 12v (1.2v x 10) 5000mAh NI-MH batteries would be ok? Also, I have a 7 pin Tuchel to 4 pin XLR Cable (with an on/off switch) on the way. I'm assuming this connected the ESM to a Bolex Power Grip? Does anyone know which pin on the 4 pin XLR side is +12 and - ? Many thanks

Hi there, thanks for this. I've sent Les an email. I've had no luck finding an adapter anywhere else.

Hi John & Richard, an update on this process... I figured out that the Sulphuric Acid / Permanganate Bleach as recommeded by Ilford's fact sheet was too strong for Super 8 / 16mm Stock. By diluting the recommended 10% Sulphuric Acid 1+4 with water and doing the same to the Permanganate I ended up with a bleach that didn't damage the emulsion in the process.

Hi All, I have an Angenieux Type R7 Lens (1.8), it looks like it was made in the '70s. I bought in in a kit with a Cinema Products CP-16 Camera, the lens mount is a CP mount. Can this lens be easily converted to C Mount? The CP bayonette mount has 3 screws, which when removed allow the mount and also part of the rear of the lens barrel to be removed. This part looks like part of the adapting system... as the rear lens element is not removed in this process but rather the caseing that surrounds it. Was the mount on this lens designed to be interchangable, and if so is there a rear lens mount adapter out there for this? Thanks in advance, Darn Thorn Convert CP Mount Angenieux R7 Lens to C Mount

Hi Richard, I've tried testing the clearing bath with unexposed film, the bath did not remove the silver as hypo would. My rinsing bath is approx 20ºC. Perhaps a pre-hardening treatment might work. John, what you're describing sounds exactly like my experience. I think the bath Ilford recomends might be ok for their emulsions, but damaging for Kodak's Super 8 Tri-X. The frustrating thing is I actually got it to work at one point, and got a good result, perhaps I accidently made the clearing bath too weak?

Hi Richard, Thanks for your reply! I do believe that it might be your influence that has me experimenting in hand processing. A student at the uni where I work was experimenting by bucket processing Super 8 and you kindly assisted. It inspired me to try processing motion picture film (: At the moment I'm on the other side of the world, looking to source materials in the UK You could be right here, I"m pretty sure it's Sodium Metabisulfite, I mixed it fresh just before processing. I guess I could test the 'clearing bath' with undeveloped film, if it's hypo I'll end up with blank film, right? I've had issues in the past with emulsions 'lifting' from agressive developers or processing chemicals, though this tends to be with older 'alternative' still photography processes, I've heard that Permanganate bleach tends to soften the emulsion, if this was the case, would a pre-hardening bath help? The result I got did look like the effect that hypo has on an emulsion, so that does seem like the first place to test! I'll post my results shortly

Hi All, Following Ilford's B&W Reversal Fact Sheet, I've been experimenting with using Ilford Bromophen 1+1 (with nothing else added) as a first and second developer when processing Super 8 & 16mm Kodak Tri-X. The Ilford fact sheet suggests using the Sulphuric Acid - Potassium Permanganate bleach bath. Following this Ilford recommends using Potassium Metabisulphite 25g added to 1 litre water, as a clearing bath. I've been successful with this combination. HOWEVER Research told me that D-19 with Sodium Thiocyanate added (2g to 1 litre of Dev) was closer to Kodak's D-94 Reversal Process. I've used this developer, then bleached with the Sulphuric Acid & Permanganate Bleach. Inspection at this stage (after the recommended minimum of 2 mins in the bleach) showed a film that had the trace of an image and a slightly different coloured base than the result with Bromophen (peach colored with D-19 rather than 'creamy' with Bromophen) The film is rewashed as usual (2 mins, running water, 20ºC) But when I continue to the clearing bath the image dissolves leaving me with completley blank film. I've noticed that the Kodak formula requests that you use Sodium Sulphite rather than Metabisulphite? Re-development after re-exposure, yields nothing.. Is the clearing bath causing the problem, or is there something else going on here? The bath looks cloudy after coming in contact with the film, something that doesn't happen as quickly with the Bromophen process. Has anyone seen the difference between Bromophen and D-19 used to develop Super 8 & 16mm film. Many thanks in advance. Darn Thorn