john spader

I’ve seen this done once and remember loving the look. I’m wanting to shoot my Ursa Mini Pro (16x9 sensor) but mount the 2x anamorphic PL lens sideways, in which, I would physically shoot/mount camera 90degrees. Then what now has become a 9x16 image will stretch in post to be approximately a 3:2 image (kind of a full frame look) however you get severe bowing on the sides which reminiscent of a fisheye but not. just trying to work out the monitoring challenges. anyone ever try this? And also, would the anamorphic lens (to the edges) actually utilize the whole sensor? any thoughts?

Really? I removed the EF mount and there was a shim, and there are like a dozen shim sizes in the PL kit, so I’m assuming depending on the lens, there’s correct thicknesses for hitting infinity.?

Changing EF to PL mount in Ursa Mini Pro 4.6k, and I can’t for the life of me find a guide/ref online of which shins to use for installation of PL mount? using Ultra primes as well as the angenieux ez?

this makes sense. can't seem to find a 60 amp GFCI from Shock Stop, Littelfuse, or Bender...do you have a link for one? and, so with this...I shouldn't install GFCI's on the snackbox then, yes?

definitely not intending to argue your motive, just seems like most people (except for Mr.Conley) just lean toward all the cons or that its too hard so why bother. I like to learn. and I believe that this can be done and have it be as safe as any other of the units out there still being rented. This would be for small non-sag productions, mostly my own stuff anyway. I try to be careful and safe with everything I do of course, so in hindsight I do appreciate the codes/laws etc. in the best interest of safety. What are your thoughts on pushing a 4-5ft rod into the earth connected to the gene or snackbox' ground not a safety solution?

thx for chiming in here Guy, but that modification has been used and safe for years...so seems silly for the NEC to all of sudden say something else. But from a business pov like you guys where you're trying to sell your products, I understand how its best to follow their mandates for liability and such...with respect. Bottom line is I probably can't afford your suggestion. I can probably get this modification done for under $500. There are other places on the eu7000 unit where the bates can be mounted other than the face with the other plugs. Where theres a will theres a way... and I'm more of a glass half full type a person.

ok, i'll check out SC. then wut were yur thoughts on the distance stuff?

absolutely with a local professional. ? lastly, I will be making my own bates cable (6/3 SOOW) and with the scenario of running the M40...would a 75 or 100ftr be too long? or should I keep it to 50ft?

I used to live in Austin so it would have been handy at the time but now I'm in DC. THANK YOU EVERYONE! This is great feedback and its making me feel more confident about accomplishing this with the local professional after I read the manual, open her up and wrap my brain around this. I'm still going to be responsible for getting the female 60amp bates face for the genset if anyone has a link for the correct item? I imagine its different than just getting a female bates head on amazon or what not.

I don't feel like I can understand the internal components enough to "metalwork" that...but maybe I'm wrong maybe its easier than I'm making it. I wonder if Angel (for a fee of course) would be willing to walk me through it on the phone so I don't f**k it up. Have you ever done it yourself?

I'm on the east coast so I doubt it. haha! Ok, so I think I'll make my own custom box. I'll run two 50ft cables (3-pin 30amp and the 20amp)taped together and my inputs on the box will be for both, in which, the internal wiring will correspond with proper plugs. Do you think I should add breakers on the box as well? or is just leaving it up to the gene's breakers fine? Lastly, with this configuration...from the 30amp side...what do you think is the largest HMI I could run that then? Arri M40?

also, my eu7000is has that 120v/240 selection switch at the bottom as well, doesnt that mean I can combine just like the 6500?

thank you Ed! this is extremely helpful dude! so basically if I were to make my own 50ft cable to a snackbox, the best amp output I could get is to use the 30amp twist AND one of the 20amp, then gaff tape together two 50ft cables to reach a custom snackbox, in which, the 30amp side and 20amp side would just need to be separate and labeled. yes? unless you have a better way to make this setup work? I'm only thinking about going this route, because to ship the gene to dallas would be astronomical.

I have a Honda eu7000is, but its not one of those adapted ones for film production where the 60amp bates is built into the front panel. So...I'm looking for how exactly to plug this thing up utilizing all amps possible to run a 50ft lunchbox. I DO have a 50ft bates (60amp) cable...(obviously one end plugs into the lunchbox) so it seems there has to be a way to cut off other end and wire it up to the 30amp twist lock or will I need to split it so I'm using the 30amp on the 120v side as well as the 240v side? Looking for detailed direction on how to make this work? thank you.

easy enough, right.

wow, you are always so helpful over the years David...and Dom...thank you guys. Super appreciate it.

we are planning on utilizing a couple split focus shots in next film, but have never actually used a split field before. we are trying to accomplish a shot similar to the first shot in the below link. But can any DP out there tell me which one to rent...because they're a little hard to come by and can only rent from Atlanta or LA and we're shooting in Austin, so I don't want to waste time getting the wrong one delivered out there. +1, vs +2 or +3? which one? We will be using Atlas Orion anamorphic lenses just FYI.

we just acquired a Sunray 2.5k HMI par, came w/ballast which has bates plug at end of it. because everything all worn off, you can't tell what amperage and specs needed. we're wanting to run this from our Honda eu7000is gene, which gives us a 30amp 220v 4-prong. first question: can someone verify the amps needed to run this particular light, can it run fine on that 30amps? second: what's the easiest adapter or way to plug this thing in, assuming the cable is 10/3 and safe for initial spark/and load.? We thought about creating a 100ft 10/3 cable with a male 4-prong plug to go into gene...then a single box on other side w/female bates. thoughts?

Hey everyone. I am looking for a DP for our upcoming feature. The goal for principle photography is between June1-Sept.1, 2018. The film, New Creature, is a psychological thriller with a splash of sci-fi. (see IMDB) It's an ultra-low SAG project($400k), but in order to keep budget down, we're open to finding an ambitious, non-union DP, or a union DP willing to work for less because he/she really loves the material. Mika Boorem is attached as the lead, and it is visioned by award-winning director, Seth Christian. Anywho, it's set in the 1800's, and if it doesn't film in Oklahoma, they're looking at Romania and Spain as a possibility. As far as story, think The Village meets Vanilla Sky! If you're interested or know of a DP who might be a fit, please let me know!

seems like (2) Honda 6500's might be the best way to go. not very loud and by having 2, we can be covered in power. and they're only $120/day. thoughts?

ok. well, based on our lighting list from first post...whats a better option for a gen that will not only handle it all, but be at a tolerable db level where we wouldnt have to run as far?? thanks for all your thoughts.

last question--if we go with this unit...by putting it far away so it doesn't affect sound recording, how far can we be running each stinger before we will start worrying about too much power loss?

adrian, thanks for your thoughts. would you be able to give me a couple links to which adapters I would need for this gen? Can you describe for me WHY this would flicker? what makes a gen flicker or not flicker? lastly, do you have a better gen recommendation that would be FREE of worrying about flicker?

we're in major budget-cutting mode, so we found this gen for like only $300 for the whole week from somebody. http://www.amazon.com/Mi-T-M-12000-Watt-Gasoline-Generator/dp/B003X7A9UI/ref=pd_sxp_f_i will it comfortably push?: (4) 1000w par cans (2) 300 Arri fresnel (2) 600 Arri fresnel (5) 40w table lamps (1) Lowell DP 1000W (2) Lowell Tota 750W I know the wattage of the gen is above the wattage of our lights, but I guess I'm asking about the technical side of things I'm slowly (but surely) learning about amps, line loss, current, etc. I AM OPEN to ALL THOUGHTS about this scenario, the gen, and if you have a better recommendation?