roberto de la torre

Next time I gonna go to youtube and make a test with my cat about some consumer camera. For sure I´ll get more comments :lol: CG is just the robots,chains and some volumetric lights,other is real set. Glad you like

This is the first part of a shot movie I´m working. I got to stop for job,part II coming soon. I hope you like it.

That close up of that mouth spitting blood reminds me early years of Peter Jackson. These few shots make laugh,thanks!

Some camera,CC,storytelling...test for a short movie. It´s just a sketch from the opening scene. The CGI is a little bit poor. I hope some day make the entire film. Shot with BM Pocket and Lomo anamorphic.

Hi Brandon, I bought a few years ago on ebay,really cheap compared with the actual prices. I had no chance to test it yet until I bought the BMPC. Always used as adapter with others prime lens. I guess is a 70´s one. It´s a OCT-18 but have OCT-19 adapter,but still no know how works the mechanism of the spherical block with the anamorphic attachment. Well,I know how it works,but it no works and I don´t know why! I spoke with Olex...waiting for his 2º response yet. Any way,I really love this lens. I think is the most "Panavi$ion-like" that one can have. Really genuine,authentic... Send you a PM Thanks ;)

Hi, I´ve the 35mm T2.5 square front,looks awesome on BMPC but I can´t pull focus :( Has the square front with his 35mm spherical,but when turn the focus rings,just move the anamorphic group and lose the alignment with the spherical lens. Perhaps the mine missing some parts? It looks like I´ve to get inside or outside the entire lens of the camera to get in focus each time. It´s frustrating! How works yours?

4:3 with x2 anamorphic=2.66:1. So,to get 2.39:1 with x2 lenses need a more tighten film gate,the film gate that allow sound track,isn´t? Some thing like that: http://www.ebay.es/itm/Anamorphic-film-gate-for-Kinor-35mm-movie-camera-/290768803627 http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mwpGT42zKDOT_TzkhXsULSw.jpg I´ve shot 16mm (4:3) with 2x anamorphic and still getting 2.66:1. I think Alexa 4:3 with PV lenses,need crop in post to get 2.39:1.

One more test. This time HD: The Lumix 20/1.7 works pretty nice with the Lomo,I can´t say the same for Nikkor 50/1.8,at f4 still soft.

ProRes ungraded comparison: http://imageshack.com/a/img837/6046/7tha.png The Lomo on front as adapter. Dual focus,left (just my thumb) for Lomo and right hand for prime. I´m finishing the free hand rig with follow focus. I´ll show you when it´s done. Cheers

yeah,you are right. At 1m have less compression,x1.7 or something like this,I think so. In this case squeeze for 1m to get medium shot with no fat faces,but is noticeable it need more horizontal stretching for infinite focus shots. Pushing in/up in post is a good idea,but the fact is that I really love breathing in anamorphic,it´s another one characteristic of these lens. I don´t want hide it at all. Could be a good way set up the horizontal stretching for 2m or 3m,a little bit spaghetti people in infinite focus but not so donut faces for close ups. http://www.freakingnews.com/Pictures/3/Donut-Diet.jpg Owen Parker. I thought you comment about Kubrick was ironic. I think John Carpenter could be more proud than any others. No matter the budget he film,he wanted anamorphic always!

Century,LA7200,Generic,Soligor....all the same lens. No matter the build quality,yes matter the cylindrical lens inside. The dispersion in these lens is crap in my opinion. I used it for 16mm,S8 and HD some time. In any case,what matters is what you do with it.

Hey fella! You know,I like more film stock,but.... Por eso la compré,es muy diferente al look de las HDSLR. No solo por el rango dinámico,también por como reacciona a la sobreexposición de forma suave,muy parecido al stock (salvando las distancias)

Mine is a prime one,35mm T2.5 square front. Can dissemble the rear lens (spheric) and use the front anamorphic block with other lens. I can use until 24mm (APSC) without vignetting for extreme wide angle. (12mm or 14mm in s16) The distortions get too much psychedelic. Check google,a lot of info about ;) Cheers

It´s a camera attached to a lens! :lol: No,the Lomo is heavy (less of 1Kg) but not so big,is short. Still a compact rig. 3.56 is too much. I´ve put marks on the LCD finder to composing like 4:3,so will crop at least to vintage 2.66:1. Yeah,the rack focus bring me a lot of new possibilities,especially if my intention is shot camera handled or shoulder. Also the s16 sensor is nicely with fast f stops,can get more light without lose to much DOF. f2 looks like f4 or more. Cheers Jean-louis, Thanks for comment. I´ve the Century...bull s***t lens,can´t understand why people pay $$$$ for those no achromatic lens adapters. Anamorphic is not necessary on digital,it´s all for the look and with these adapters the look is not so cool like an x2 lens. I know people that prefer use vintage x2 and then crop the sides,that use a new Hawk x1.33. Isco x1.5 could be a great choice,but still 2m close up and the price! :blink: people get crazy! Lomo from 1970 is not the best lens,but I have´t $$ to buy rent PV anamorphic.

Just a test: No HD sorry,but it´s just to see the atmosphere can get with this little camera. Too much wide,I´ll have to crop the sides,it´s a little bit ironic,but you know..I like this look. Testing night,flares (not just the blue streak,looking more for the halos in highlights ), pull focus....I got the way to do double focus,now I can rack focus with anamorphic..I´m happy! I need another spherical lens for my square front Lomo,the Lumix 20/1.7 looks cool,very sharp for anamorphic,but all f****ing electronics,no way to know focal length. The last (cat) shot is done with a 30/1.4 full open. The idea is get a similar look to a 40mm anamorphic of 35mm.

I see, Many thanks for your help. I know the squeeze or de-squeeze just depends on the degree of orientation. No matter for which was built. I think I must learn more about the physic of the lenses. About your system with two cemented plano-concaves,I also thought this idea would prevent the CA but,if I´m not wrong,need built with different kind of glass too. Looking at my Hypergonar and other anamorphic that I have,they looks built like this: By the way, on which cámera do you use the de-squeeze? I´m thinking on get a Konvas,but get a Lomo kit could cost more than a two Konvas with spherical lenses,magazines....

I tried with thin fishing line in vertical on a 50mm and it work.White horizantal flare,but works. You can try with some blue color like this one: http://web.tradekorea.com/upload_file2/sell/68/S00025268/Dyneema_Braid_Fishing_Line.jpg In any case,it make horizontal streak but don´t looks like anamorphic. Also you can add a oval diaphragm filter in front or back the lens, you can make it with a black cardboard cutting a small oval circle in the center. The oval bokeh could looks more anamorphic that the streak. Like this,but with oval instead of heart http://d2o7bfz2il9cb7.cloudfront.net/main-qimg-67a4f9b6aa6b5cf7482a3de6069800d0 My 2 cents ;)

"in the middle" is the design of the Hawk,I think so. It would be a nice design as well: (Spherical-Diaphragm-anamorphic-spherical wide angle) Anyway,barrel distirtion,as I said,is not a big problem for me,could be another "glamor" of the anamorphic´s artifact;oval bokeh,squint out focus,mump,flare...and barrel. I know Surplus Shed,is where some guys purchase prismas for digital projection. About your de-squeezer viewfinder, you purchased just a plano-convex and plano-concave lens with X measure for do anamorphic? I mean,you don´t needed specify the diopters,ratio,etc...? I´ve afraid to buy these and then have focus issues. One problem I worry,is the combination of focal lengths to obtain the X2 squeeze,if I had to put in long distance each one to other to get x2,still as the same,can´t use wide angle. The best one should be 3cm lengths with a combinations of ratios with the two lens give squeeze X2. That madness!! LOL Still investigating! Thanks,Dan.

Hi Dan, Can tell me how you did the adapter for the viewfinder? which lens and where purchased? About the problems said,you are right. I don´t care about the barrel distortion but CA is pain in my eyes,so I´m looking to avoid this if possible. I removed the Hypergonar lenses from the body and it is compose with doublet lens each one,so it has four lens actually. I think there is the "achromatic trick",avoid the different wavelengths of light and focus the light to one point...thing not resolved with the "scam" $800 Panasonic AG-LA7200. Well,my idea start in 3 fases: 1ª-get anamorphic x2 for wide angle lens. (I don´t care about the CA yet,just usable X2) 2º-Get out the CA (with the same design of the 1ª with doublet lens) 3º-focus sistem. (blend the focus with the distance of the two cylindrical lens...MUMP looks nice as well ...LOL)

heheh...same as you,Tom. I´m glad to see someone interested for this issue as well. I saw the Scoopic video a few times time ago.Looks nice but still looking tele-photo. Understand your frustration with the optical places,I had the same experience and I gather we can´t require to build a anamorphic lens. They need the "power" from each lens. The axis,diopter,diameters,surface,centration,focal length,coating,cylindrical,spherical,plano-convex,biconcave,etc... When you have the "power" just contact with places like this one: One for positive cylindrical: http://www.altechna.com/product_details.php?id=58&product=Positive+Cylindrical+Lenses And one for negative cylindrical: http://www.altechna.com/product_details.php?id=59&product=Negative+Cylindrical+Lenses Where to find out the power of the each lens? .. In places/shops for optical glasses,they have a machine that "read the power" in a few seconds. I´ve the power of a 1,33x DV anamorphic adapter: Front: +10 Sp,-10 Cylindrical,180º back: -0,25 Sp,-11 Cy,90º I´m not sure yet about these measures,I get it to read again,but it´s a good start. Would be great get the power of the front attachment of wide angle anamorphic lens. These are very close each to the other and it´s x2. I can get the power of Sankor but it designed to keep the lens at a distance one another without being able to bring them to use with a wide angle,focus issues and less compression. Another way to get wide angle is put a wide angle conversor in front of the anamorphic: Just find a right power with achromatic glass. I try with a cheap 0.5x wide angle conversor in front of the Sankor. It´s small,so vignette: Cheers R

Hi, This is a project that I´m working. I´m looking to get shot wideangle with anamorphic adapters. I´ve Hypergonar,Sankor...with excellent quality of image,but as many users know,these lens cannot be used with wide angles lens.And Cinemascope is for get WIDE,not just close ups. My project start with the design of Soligor,Pana or Century adapters,that these can using almost with 30mm FF lens. So,the basic idea is get the quality glass of the Sankor (for example) and use on the Soligor design. I got to know the measure and "potence" (I don´t know the term in english) of the each cylindrical lens of the Soligor adapter,just need get the same design build with achromatic glass (Achromatic doublet or whatever) This one is x1.33 but I would like change to x2 (for use with R16mm film as well) Appreciate if anyone has the manual of the design of the front atachment of the Lomo 22mm or whatever wide angle anamorphic. The body of the lens must be another issue,but it´s not so important for now. Sorry about my poor english.