Robert Ditto

Hello Carl, Your Camera is missing some hardware and some accessories. At location A you are missing the turret lock assembly. At location B you are missing the behind the lens filter holder. This filter holder must be in place or the slot completely covered while filming or there will be a light leak. At Location C your camera has been set up to use the sync flash accessory and these holes must be covered, or again a light leak. And if I had to hazard a guess, this is the main source of your current light leak. Sincerely, Respectfully, Robert

Hello. The grip you need for your C8SL is the Chrome Trigger. The black trigger version is incorrectly labeled and works on the later pocket 8mm cameras D8, P1, P2, P3.

Hello, Darn. Here is a setup that works very well for most people I know. Purchase a Juicebox Magic Power 2.0 battery, https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1643531-REG/juicebox_jb_jbmp_p46_magic_power_2_0_for.html?ap=y&smp=y&srsltid=AYJSbAcwE6mKkD1eyztNseLxxGBgvf1Snrzn7NZ5La4erYj7SxVUTfh4bhQ then modify the supplied cable by cutting off the end used to connect it to a Black Magic Pocket Cinema camera and attaching the appropriate XLR connector to pair with the on/off cable you have on the way. For XLR wiring, usually Pin 1 is ground and Pin 4 is +12V DC. If you employ this method, once you cut off the Black Magic end and peel back the wire shielding to expose the two wires inside, the red wire is (+)12VDC and the Black wire is (-)Ground. Always test with a voltmeter to be sure though. I hope this helps!!!! Sincerely Respectfully Robert M Ditto Bolex Repair Tech Filmmaker

You have no worries in using the ESM motor on your H8 RX-4 DS8. The ESM motor works on the 1:1 driveshaft of the camera, so it is turning the shutter at the same speed whether it is 16mm or 8mm.

An H16 M can be converted to Reflex, however, the reflex donor body for the shutter needs to be either a RX-0 that still had the fixed shutter, or an EBM with the fixed shutter. My M-5 was converted to reflex using the 13x viewfinder, reflex assembly, bayonet mount, and shutter of a dead EBM, essentially making it an SBM with a fixed shutter of 170° instead of the variable shutter of a stock SBM.

Here in the States, Dom AMC shoots alot of their shows on Super16 ARRI 416's, "The Walking Dead", "Fear the Walking Dead" "Mad Men" all critically acclaimed shows, all shot on Super16. As far as streaming platforms go, it isn't so much that 16mm isn't allowed as an acquisition format, the output must be at least 4k to 6K depending on the service. A featurette I shot on 16 is available on Amazon, and Tubi, but the film scanning was done at 4K.

With regard to rental houses being dead, every professional 16mm shooter I know, and the list spans the globe, owns their own camera system, everything from Bolex to Arri 416's, I myself have my own fully rigged Bolex H16 M5/EBM hybrid, and Bolex H16 EBM for professional use. I learned a long time ago to purchase my own rig and save the rental cost.

@Aaron Martin @ OH, Jason's cables are bar none, some of the best work I have ever seen, or used. They are affordable, durable, and look factory made. Best investment I have ever made. Sincerely, Respectfully, Robert M. Ditto Filmmaker

Hello all, I am looking for (4) issues of Bolex Reporter Magazine to complete my collection and have the full run of the magazine, can anyone here help me? I am looking for these issues: Summer 1958 - My Copy has been 3-Hole Punched and I would like one in better condition. 1966-1967 Issue - I am missing this issue completely. 1972-1973 Issue - I am missing this issue completely. 1973-1974 Issue - I am missing this issue completely. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hello and Good Day to Everyone! I came across this unusual Arriflex 16 S/ST/SB motor and I was wondering if any of you ARRI old school gurus might know more about it. It is branded "ARRIFLEX Corporation of America" and has these identifiers on the plate. 339-837 MARK III MODEL NO. 150F SERIAL NO. 532M I have tried to search the internet for information on it and I have come up with NIL. Is there anyone out there who can help me?

Listed in the description of the ebay auction. A power supply and Power Cord are not included with the auction. The Bolex EBM has a couple of power supply options that you will need to address if you purchase it. Examples: Original Bolex EBM power supply/battery charger has an inline push button to activate the camera motor and thus begin filming. a Bolex Power Grip for Bolex EBM, EL, and ESM External motors has a push button in the grip and houses an internal battery for power. After Market rigs that use the original Bolex Power Connection with a 12V source and an on/off switch. There is a link to a youtube video where I demonstrate the unit running with film at all speeds and you can see the power cord I use. Sincerely, Respectfully, Robert M. Ditto Creative Director and Director of Photography Infinity Focus Productions

My Apologies

Hello Everyone. I just wanted to let everyone know that I am selling a Great little Bolex H16 EBM Camera Package on eBay. eBay item number: 222563920707 http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOLEX-H16-EBM-Electric-16mm-Movie-Camera-Kit-AMAZINGLY-GOOD-CAMERA-PACKAGE-/222563920707?hash=item33d1d7eb43:g:JscAAOSwHLNZVGvt There is a link to a Youtube video demonstrating its operation in the description for the eBay listing. I have many detailed photos of all the items in the Auction, drop me a message and I will gladly send them to you.

Hello Everyone. I just wanted to let everyone know that I am selling a Great little Bolex H16 EBM Camera Package on eBay. eBay item number: 222563920707 http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOLEX-H16-EBM-Electric-16mm-Movie-Camera-Kit-AMAZINGLY-GOOD-CAMERA-PACKAGE-/222563920707?hash=item33d1d7eb43:g:JscAAOSwHLNZVGvt There is a link to a Youtube video demonstrating its operation in the description for the eBay listing. I have many detailed photos of all the items in the Auction, drop me a message and I will gladly send them to you.

Hello Tom, Yes indeed, the two threaded holes you are looking for are under the leatherette. Peel it back and you will see two screws that must be broken loose and then removed to access the smooth plate to mount the original Bolex matte box. Keep the screws and use them to attach the matte box. Sincerely, Respectfully, Robert M. Ditto

I have three entire sets of 35mm SLR lenses that I use on my Various Bolex systems. The only real issue with using them is you will have a narrower angle of view than the spec angle of view on the lens. The focal depth is still the same, it is just not as wide as on a 35mm camera. If you can live with that, because I know alot of DPs who cannot, then you should have great success using Nikon, as they are typically good lenses. Sincerely, Respectfully, Robert M. Ditto Infinity Focus Pictures.

Are your camera's sprockets single perf or double perf?

The official designation is "H8". To further fine tune your research, you have an Early H8 that has the earlier claw mechanism and the sprocket teeth are a little more rounded in their design. Also, your 100ft load spindles are completely round rather than the more normal round with a square at the base. You can take the serial number as shown in your pictures and get a full breakdown of your camera and it's relative specs at http://www.bolexcollector.com. A couple of things to note. The early round spindles use a different daylight real than more modern versions and can be difficult to source at times. And, your lenses are some of the better lenses that were available for those cameras so unless you are trading up, hold on to the because as I've said, $20 was a bargain. The first photo of the two chrome lenses are going for about $100 each on eBay these days with adapters that allow their use on modern digital camera with astounding image results. The reg 8mm film is still available today and processing as well, just not as common as Super 8mm and up. Here is one, http://www.cinelab.com. But yes, it was a very common method which pre-dated the Super 8mm cartridge format of film making. Reg 8, and Double Run 8, and Double 8, are all used for the same 8mm film and it's processes. But that is why they call the spools you load the film onto "Daylight reels" because once you've exposed the first half, the you turn it over in full daylight, although, I would recommend a darker area, and the black sides of the reel protect all but about the first three outer layers of the exposed film. Which you would be damaging during the rethreaded process anyway. I actually to and H8 "S" and mounted a Bolex 400ft external Magazine so when I shoot with it, I get roughly the same amount of footage as someone with 1000ft of 16mm. It is still a viable format for the average filmmaker and there are whole clubs and websites devoted to the format, there are also so mods that can be done like Double Super 8mm that widens the gate to super8 aspect, and still uses the double run method of capture, also, one of my dear Friends whose birthday just happens to be today, worked out a system called "UltraPan 8" and has an aspect ration wider than Panavision. He is a member here as well, His name is Nick Kovats. Let me know if there is anything else I can do. Always good to see a new Bolex user. I have shot ARRI, Anton, Eclair, and Bolex to name a few. And, my favorite will always be the Bolex. I shoot film exclusively and with the Bolex cameras, if some happens on set or on a shoot, I can completely tear one down and rebuild it on location and be back up and running in no time. That is a fine piece you have there so make sure you know what you have if you ever trade or sell it. Sincerely, Respectfully, Robert

A little of both, but not really. Let me explain, the sprocket teeth on the H8 and the H16 are spaced wider than a single frame as they are intended for film transport and guidance only, the claw at the film gate itself is where it becomes a 1:1 ratio of using each perf on the film to frame for image Acquisition. So the sprocket teeth seem wider in both models because they are in relation to film types thread pitch. Sincerely, Respectfully, Robert

Yes, people looking to make a buck and who don't know the history see the 16mm sprocket width and just assume it is a 16mm camera. To someone with a little bit of experience the tell~tale sign is the film gate size and the lens mount size, the smaller diameter "D" mount is easier to spot if you have seen the larger "C" mount used on 16mm. The gate is easy to spot in a similar fashion, once you've seen the 16mm gate there is no question on the differences. $20 for this camera was a bargain though. If you would rather have a good serviced H16 to shoot with, we could talk about a trade. Sincerely, Respectfully, Robert

Hello Mark, What you have is an early "H8" not an "H16". The H8 camera uses Regular 8mm film which is a "Double Run" film. The film itself is 16mm wide because you shoot the 100ft load once and the turn the "exposed" take up reel over and shoot it again on the other half of the film. You then send off the film and after it is developed they slit the film down the middle effectively giving you 200ft of film for projection or digital scan. The topmost lenses mount has the smaller threaded hole just under the turret plate because this is the "Turret Locking Plug" location. There is a special turret cap that has deeper threads on it to Lock the turret in to place and help keep the turret plate from flexing with heavy lenses from the day. You need to run reg 8 film only in this camera, the 16mm may damage some of the more sensitive parts at the film gate/film movement mechanism area. Also, your camera might need to be serviced if it is running loudly or sluggishly. I can do this service for you fairly cheaply if you are interested. Just PM me in here and I can give you the details. Sincerely, Respectfully, Robert M. Ditto Director of Photography Infinity Focus Pictures

Agreed, if there is anything I can't do myself with my Bolexes, I send it to Jean-Louis. In my experience, he is hands down the best Bolex technician I have had the pleasure to work with. His CLA rates are quite reasonable and you get a superb job done on your equipment. However, I have a spare screw for you from one of my parts cameras that I will give you if you don't mind taking care of the shipping. PM me if you're interested. Sincerely, Respectfully, Robert M. Ditto

It is possible, you would need a "D" Mount to "C" Mount Adapter, which is not very common, then a "C" Mount to the mount of your camera. Please note, the latter part may not even be possible because of the restrictions involved in using "C" Mount lenses on 35mm photographic cameras, because of their mount design differences, not all 35mm cameras have an adapter out there to use "C"Mount lenses. And I have to re-iterate what David said, even if you have all necessary adapters, the amount of vignetting would be staggering. If I am thinking corrcectly, you would closer to exposing 1/4 of the image area, because "D" Mount is half of 16mm which is a little less than half of 35mm. The first place to start, however, is to find out if your camera will accept "C"Mount adapters. If so, find a good one. Then look for the "D" Mount to "C" Mount adapter. They are rare, bu they are out there. Good Luck. Sincerely, Respectfully, Robert M. Ditto

Good Morning Everyone, and Good Evening to everyone in Europe and beyond, I have two lenses with very minor problems and was wondering who, if anyone, you would recommend tothe send them to for repair. Lens No. 1: Schneider Kreuznach Curtagon 35mm in Kodak Retina DKL mount. The front barrel unit is just slightly loose, it wiggles a little, just enough to concern me, where as, the rest of my lenses in this family do not have this problem. Lens No. 2: Konishiroku (Konica) Hexanon 90mm F1~1.8 in original Konica "F" mount. There is something that has started coming loose inside the lens barrel between elements. If one were to look straight through the lens, it is not visible to the film plain, yet, but turn the lens slightly and there it is. I love both of these lenses, and I know they are kind of odd balls, but the glass is PRISTINE and their results are absolutely BRILLIANT. Can anyone recommend anyone who can possibly help me with these? Sincerely, Respectfully, Robert M. Ditto

Agreed.