John David Miller

A toolbelt that an 1st. unit grip wears contains these items: It starts with the belt. Some prefer a padded belt http://www.filmtools...lt-1004-ar.html others are oldschool and like leather 1 - 10 or 14 ounce Stiletto titanium hammer http://www.northernt...57778_200357778 The hammer pouch should also have two slots to keep nails. Set grips carry just a small handful of Doublehead (duplex) #8 and doublehead #16 nails on them. 1 - 30' Tape measure Some tape pouches have a place to hold a sharpie or chalk holder for marking. 1 - Small utility pouch http://www.setwear.c...ightPouch5.html You don't need anything bigger than this on set. 1 - 6" Klein crescent wrench http://www.platt.com...aspx?zpid=31340 This will open up just as wide as a standard 8" made by crescent 1 - Knipex pliers http://www.google.co...ed=0CGIQ8wIwAg# Lite, open wide, excellent grip on both flat and round surfaces. 1 - 6in1 Screwdriver The two size nut drivers are handy for hex head tek screws. 1 - Klein Side Cutters (Dykes) These will a DH #16 like butter without damaging the tool. Gripchain...no problem. 1 - 9/16" Ratcheting Wrench http://www.google.co...ed=0CDAQ8wIwAw# This size is industry standard for camera bolts. 1 - Low Profile 3/16" Allen Drive (Speedwrench) http://www.filmandvi...steqspwr3a.html The low profile is good to get into tight spots on car rigs. 1 - Matte Knife http://www.google.co...PNom2sAPl7tnYDQ The quick release is nice. 1 - A cool pocket knife Look at Benchmade or Spiderco for examples 1 - Roll, 2" Photo Black Paper Tape 1 - Roll, Electrical Tape Great for mousing up chain vise grips. NEVER use your paper tape on speedrail. 1 - Pen, don't bug the BB for one to do paperwork. 1 - Sharpie, MarksALot, or Lumber Crayon 1 - Small notepad. A few clothespins or binderclips and maybe a #1 handy clamp or two. Some guys will carry gloves, but not many. This is it. Anything more and you are carrying un-needed weight. Keep it lite, save your back. You are a grip...not a setcart. A grip has no business carrying a lightmeter or a cubetap.

I have to agree that the clove hitch is not a great knot. There are several other knots that are far superior for any given application. It is just a simple knot to tie/untie, to teach, to tell if you've mistied it, to remember. We usually do not use rope to hang anything of serious weight. Anything a man could not comfortably lift is put on a motor, winch, arbor, or block/fall. You see a lot of people add wraps to a clove to prevent sliding or actually mouse up the knot with tape. Until recently people would weave the tail of the clove hitch up through the load-bearing line greatly reducing the tensile strength. Now we don't even carry manilla rope on the truck anymore. Even though I have never had a clove hitch fail under any circumstance, I agree the world of gripping should employ the use of better knots.

For payroll and box rental, checks should be cut weekly. For equipment, on commercials/music video a NET 30 is industry standard. A "quickpay" or NET 3 is usually offered which gives a 15-20% discount on equipment only (not expendables or mileage), in return for cutting the check in 3 days. I usually offer off 20% if the check is cut by wrap and 15% for a 3 day window. On features the equipment checks take a few weeks to start coming in then continue on a weekly basis. Payroll on Thursday, Equipment on Friday.

This was likely done with a 30' Super Techno crane on 20' of track. Justin is dancing a elevated platform skinned with clear Lexan with a frame that is painted white. They probably used a 3 axis remote head, probably a "mega mount", based on the 720 degree motion on the z axis on the opening shot. This could also be accomplished mounting a Libre Head horizontally and tilting down 90 degrees which makes the pan become the z axis. Don't forget your speed control. Clever video.

To "dead end" something tightly. For example, a pipe you want to hang. A clove is preferred over a bowline because the pipe will slide freely inside the loop of a bowline if the pipe becomes off level. For example, while hanging a lighting trapeze a bowline is uses around the ring to hang it.

White bounce cards are usually made with a 4'x8'x1" sheet of Foamular http://www.filmtools.com/foamular.html or Beadboard http://www.filmtools.com/1beadboard.html Which is then taped (using 2" white cloth tape) to a 4'x8' sheet of B/W Foamcore. (white side out) http://www.filmtools.com/sss-415265.html The side that exposes the Foamular is called the "softside" while the side that exposes the white Foamcore is called the "hardside." This 4x8 sheet is then cut down to 4x4's, 2x4's, and 2x2's...or which ever sizes work best for you. Sometimes we will skin the "softside" with a soft silver http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/163173-REG/Rosco_102302732124_E_Colour_273_Soft_Silver.html Based on a DPs preferences or tendancies.

This setup is known as a "booklight". Bounce into a 4x polycard and diffuse the light coming off the card. This works nicely with a 12x frame (ultrabouce) and a 18k, diffused with a 12x (half grid). Have the grips contain all the unwanted spill. Get fancy and add a LCD to the diffusion frame. Best way to tell if it is too hot: Put your hand there. Employ a layer of Heatsheild if needed. Back off the bounce if heat remains an issue,

I wouldn't let a guy do anything more than shag sandbags and clean gear until I knew he has his knots down. It is grip 101.

A condor or sissorlift is a quick way to hang motors if budget allows.

A toolbelt that an "A List" 1st. unit grip wears contains these items: It starts with the belt. Some prefer a padded belt http://www.filmtools.com/arri-belt-1004-ar.html others are oldschool and like leather 1 - 10 or 14 ounce Stiletto titanium hammer http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200357778_200357778 The hammer pouch should also have two slots to keep nails. Set grips carry just a small handful of Doublehead (duplex) #8 and doublehead #16 nails on them. 1 - 30' Tape measure Some tape pouches have a place to hold a sharpie or chalk holder for marking. 1 - Small utility pouch http://www.setwear.com/LightPouch5.html You don't need anything bigger than this on set. 1 - 6" Klein crescent wrench http://www.platt.com/platt-electric-supply/Wrenches-Sockets-Adjustable-Extra-Capacity/Klein/D507-6/product.aspx?zpid=31340 This will open up just as wide as a standard 8" made by crescent 1 - Knipex pliers http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&q=knipex+cobra+pliers&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=2924955062907921642&sa=X&ei=EncFTtncFoqusAPpuqTADQ&ved=0CGIQ8wIwAg# Lite, open wide, excellent grip on both flat and round surfaces. 1 - 6in1 Screwdriver Here The two size nut drivers are handy for hex head tek screws. 1 - Klein Side Cutters (Dykes) Here These will a DH #16 like butter without damaging the tool. Gripchain...no problem. 1 - 9/16" Ratcheting Wrench http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&biw=1003&bih=594&q=9+16+ratchet+wrench&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=9659126911510812161&sa=X&ei=jnkFTpGdO4KssAPmsaDQDQ&ved=0CDAQ8wIwAw# This size is industry standard for camera bolts. 1 - Low Profile 3/16" Allen Drive (Speedwrench) http://www.filmandvideolighting.com/mosteqspwr3a.html The low profile is good to get into tight spots on car rigs. 1 - Matte Knife http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.uline.com/Images/product/Medium/HD_1155_M.JPG&imgrefurl=http://www.uline.com/BL_1155/Stanley-Quick-Change-Knife&usg=__2jcpMUiaQLeQAK77NL557jgf0jM=&h=188&w=250&sz=7&hl=en&start=65&zoom=0&itbs=1&tbnid=If57lTLY-0SS9M:&tbnh=83&tbnw=111&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dstanley%2Bboxcutter%26start%3D60%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26biw%3D1003%26bih%3D594%26ndsp%3D20%26tbm%3Disch%26prmd%3Divns&ei=13oFTpzPNom2sAPl7tnYDQ The quick release is nice. 1 - A cool pocket knife Look at Benchmade or Spiderco for examples 1 - Roll, 2" Photo Black Paper Tape 1 - Roll, Electrical Tape Great for mousing up chain vise grips. NEVER use your paper tape on speedrail. 1 - Pen, don't bug the BB for one to do paperwork. 1 - Sharpie, MarksALot, or Lumber Crayon 1 - Small notepad. A few clothespins or binderclips and maybe a #1 handy clamp or two. Some guys will carry gloves, but not many. This is it. Anything more and you are carrying un-needed weight. Keep it lite, save your back. You are a grip...not a setcart.

The only issue with them is weight. Iron is very heavy. The cart I described would take 4 guys to push. These fittings are great for long term rigs, semi-permanent scaffolding, or rigging underwater where extra weight may be a good thing. They, like you said, are much cheaper and can handle harsh weather very well.

Unfortunatly this is the best way to hang things (in many circumstances). Using equipment that does not require knots becomes even more critical that knowledge/experience is present. Hanging chain motors, using spansets, and winches require no knots but are very dangerous. If a self proclaimed "grip" can't tie proper knots, I wouldn't have him hanging motors. I just brought a new guy onto my crew who knew nothing about knots. His job was to shag sandbags all day everyday until he learned his knots. He learned very fast. He is 1 year into the business and I still double check his work. That is my responcibility as a Key or BB, to know the abilities of myself and my crew members. Personally, when I tie a knot my muscle memory takes over and my thoughts are on something else. After my hands go through the motions I look down and give it a visual inspection. You can take one look at almost any knot and know if it is tied wrong. Is it a perfect system, no...but that is what I like about it. Pefect rarely is.

Look for a industrial metal supply warehouse. You want a place that has a good selection of Aluminium. Decide what size Interior Diameter (ID) speedrail you wish to work with. It is important that you order fittings that match the pipe size you are using. For feature film, I strongly recomend 1-1/4" ID PIPE. Look for 6061-T6 Aluminium. Ask for 1-1/4" Schedule 40 PIPE. Get a bundle of 20 footers and get ready to do some cutting. A good pipe organ (http://www.filmtools.com/speedrailcart.html) should have about 12 cuts of 5-1/2', 12 cuts of 5', 12 cut of 4-1/2', all the way down to 1'ers in 6" increments. Use a chopsaw with the proper blade or a manual pipe cutter for nice square cuts, you can cut this alloy easily with a skilsaw (dont forget your glasses). Use a interior and exterior deburring tool after each cut. Lable the ends with a sharpie that tells the length of the pipe. Now you need fittings. I prefer: http://www.nurail.com/crosses/ For a pipe organ this size I find that you should have at least: 80 Short Barrell Crosses 72 Swivel T's 42 Split Crosses 24 Square Floor Flanges 24 Wall Flanges 4 Adjustable Flanges Tailor your package to the kind of work you do.

I have done plenty of work in very wet places like Hawaii and all over the Caribbean. I have found that a product called ACF50 is best against rust and corrosion. It is used in the aerospace industry and is a little pricey. Start with a heavier steel wool and work your way to a very fine. http://www.corrosion-control.com/pcproducts/acf-50.html Now if one of my guys has pissed me off or came in late I'll have him wax the risers with a carnuba wax as well.

Knots should be taken VERY seriously as a grip. These knots are keeping people safe from harm. You will be hanging heavy objects over the heads of people that are trusting you with their lives. Please do not be careless with this responcibility. There is no shame in asking for help or having a buddy double check your work. Good luck.

Tieing up overheads to frames should be done with the same knot you use to tie your shoelace. A clove hitch and bowline are two knots you will be using constantly. Know them well. Know how to tie them with your eyes closed, while upside down, hands behind your back, with someone beating you on the head with a gel core. A Lighterman's Hitch with two half hitches is a knot we use to tie off to the handrail on catwalks. It is important you get good at working with this knot. Learn how to tie off without losing the height...this will frustrate a Key Grip when he tells you to lock it off and it sags because your are inept with this knot. A truckers hitch or a knot with similar results is important as well. A few other situational knots that are good to learn are: Sheet Bend for joining unequal size ropes. Sqaure Knot joins equal size rope Cleat Hitch for tieing off to a cleat Cow Hitch for replacing the ties on overheads Prusik Knot a knot that wont slide Crown Sinnet to make a nice handle on your matte knife Windsor Knot for an interview to become a bigtime hollywood Key.

There is always an easier way to do things but easier is almost never best. If you gave your DP what he was looking for in a timely manner and nobody got hurt then what else can you ask for. I personally like to build a 12x tent. This is quite simple and fast with 12x20 solids and speedclips. I do this to give a DP room to play with the angle and distance of the light. Adding diffusion or branch gags is simple. It is easy for the DP to visualise what I am going to have ready for him during the scout so there aren't any suprises come time to shoot. I do not carry 30x30 solids on my trucks. I do not use visqueen for blackouts. I am fortunate not to have budget concerns so I stick with duvetyne. Duvetyne doesn't get ripped as easy, it is quiet (for sound), and is flame resistant. Visqueen is for dire emergencies. Being resourceful is a big part of being a grip. There is no cookie cutter way to do any given job. They are all a little different. I tend to stay away from the "gimmick" gear that has only one use. Instead, my trucks are set up to be very modular. Your space is limited so choose your gear wisely.

I would suggest employing a small bounce card next to the camera. It should pickup the eyes nicely without disturbing the mood...it's also cheap.

While I do not understand why you want to gel the sun, you can get 12'x overheads that are color dyed for correction but that is usually done with silks or grid cloths.

I like a 1/2 density soft frost personally.

Might I suggest a balloon light. Raise/lower or tease as needed. Fill with air not helium to rig overhead if possible.

Get several of the paper frames and pick one out to destroy. Cut it in half and lay it flat. Lay it out over a large enough piece of gel and use it as a template. Use small binderclips to clip it to the inside of the ball. Make several cuts with different shades and Bob's your..

Triangulate ratchet straps to the hardware at the base of the seats and get a good lock down on the sticks or bazooka. Rigid pipe or lumber with chain vise-grips is even better (both tension and compression). Use a vibration isolator if needed.

Come to work ready to work and on time. Turn off your phone. Stay quiet and do what you are told. Ask if you do not know. Wear your tools. Stay off the appleboxes. Do not bug the Key about anything, it's best that you don't talk to him unless he initiates it. Know your knots. Stay away from craft services. Help the BB shut the doors of the truck at wrap. When in doubt grab a ladder or a sandbag. Hope this helps.

Usually a 4x double net or solid is used to stop wind from effecting the camera during a stedicam shot. Smaller solid flags are used to keep unwanted light out of the lens to stop flaring. Many times a white poly bounce will be used to fill a subect on the move or a solid flag may produce negative fill to add contrast. There can be many reasons...