Gleb Volkov

That's interesting! You mean you had 32A 3P input? Why would it have that? The backup plan is using the 2.5K bulb, I'm trying to figure if I can push it or not.

Hey Shachar! You mean regular household outlets? I don't really have the time to build and test that properly, but just out of curiosity - how would you go about that? We have to make sure the distribution of load is roughly equal in order for it to be stable, don't we? Not something I can DIY at home, I sense...

The guy was on set so we didn't get to discuss it much, that's why I'm asking. What you wrote were my thoughts as well, but this solution really sounded unreliable. But when I think of it, It's a 2.5K/4K fixture, so maybe I grab both bulbs and give it a try? Worst case I go back to 2.5K which was the original plan...

Hi everyone, A quick question: I'm in 240V land! I'd like to run a 4k par. I only have a 240v 16A 3-phase outlet on location. No genny currently. Normally I would juice the 4k with a 32A 1P cable from a distro and bob's your uncle, since the 4K would draw roughly 20A at 240V. I was told by a gaffer friend of mine that if the wiring is correct - it's possible to run a 4k hmi fixture of this 16A 3P outlet with a cable converter from 16A-3P to 32A-1P. I trust the guy, but I'm not entirely sure why this should work, has anyone worked this setup (reminder: 240v land) and can confirm that?

Thanks for the detailed explanation! Upon further research I am now trying to go another route: The projection will be on a Kinoton lab projector, which is supposed to be able to screen 3-perf with a simple flick of a switch. I'm planning to make a 3-perf (rather than a 4-perf) positive and just screen this way. If all checks out this is supposed to be a simpler route.

Ok, got it. Will pick it up with the lab. Thank you for your time, that helped me a lot!

Thanks for the detailed answer! It wasn't really a choice of shooting 3-perf to begin with, I was just faced with this fact on site at the last moment. So now trying to figure this out. The entire film is a one-shot fitting on a single 400' roll of film, 5:30 m. There's no cutting involved, except trimming the edges and maybe adding titles. It's completely mute, there's no sound track required for a projection. So which way would be the simplest for me at this point?

Hello, I shot a short film on a 3-perf camera on B&W negative, and need to finish it in 4-perf print on a contact printer for a theatrical projection. Aspect ratio is 1:1.85. The negative capture area is the same on 3-perf and 4-perf for 1.85, is it not? As far as I understood it's a fairly simple process that uses some black border cropping on the print. Is that so? Am I missing anything? Is there anything that might prevent or complicate the transfer to 4-perf print? Thanks in advance for your help!

I actually found this app and it looked good, but I was looking for this kind of first hand testimony about it. So you say you've found it accurate and useful, and it has all the modern available lighting fixtures? Any cons?

Guy, thanks for all the relevant information. I'll take this into consideration. I'm shooting at a parking lot which has large openings and not windows, so I can't really gel anything, but I found the info relevant for other cases I'm dealing with in this production. So, thanks again, and kudos for the most thorough article about generators I've ever seen =)

Thanks Brian and Adrian, I think I have it figured out now! Wish Arri had an app for their calculator (only found one other expensive app so far, so will probably use the Arri online version) Also, the suggested book seems clear and useful. Thanks again.

Hello, I'm a film student, so I guess it's really a novice question, but maybe you could help. When I'm scouting my location, suppose I decided that I want to equalize lighting levels between inside and outside. I determined that the difference between the lighting levels is X stops (4, for the example). How can I determine the intensity of the light needed for the job? Suppose I'm bringing an HMI light, how do I know whether 1.8 KW will do or do I need 2.5 or 4? I suppose the distance at which the light will be placed should also be somehow taken into account, and also the diffusion I might want to use (but for those there's clear information about light loss etc.) Same applies for other lights and situations of course, I'm looking for the metering system here. Thanks in advance!