Rob McCray

Thanks for the replies. Yes, looks like it might be too cost prohibitave regardless of what 35mm camera. I've had some U16 scanned that darn near looked like 35mm, but the sharpening caused some severe ghosting. I've yet too try a scanner like the Xena. Maybe that will get a little better quality out of the U16 and I can keep my "run 'n' gun" set-up. Thanks again for taking the time to reply.

I'm looking to upgrade to 35mm from my Ultra16 converted K-3. What I do like about the K-3, as with most 16mm cameras, is the ability to "run 'n' gun". Looking at the choices in 35 it seems like the Konvas 2m would fit the bill, but I recently found out it cannot be converted to 3-perf. The Arri IIc can be converted, and it looks small enough, but can any of you recommend a smaller camera, if one even exists, that meets my requirements? I should add that I'm looking for something in that IIc price range. Thank you

Sorry for my late reply and thanks for taking the time to respond. Yes, according to Aranda the Konvas CANNOT be converted to 3 perf. :(

Is it possible to convert a 2M to 3-perf Super 35mm?

Yes, I was just looking at some old posts about 35mm costing less than 16mm (if you do it right). What I wish is that the price of converting a Konvas 2M to 3-perf was much lower. That to me would be ideal and I'd make the move to 35mm without hesitation. But then again, maybe the 25% savings in film isn't all that much when you're already saving due to short-ends/re-cans.

Thanks guys! But looking at your sample clips, Will, you make me want to go 35mm! The easter clip is gorgeous.

Is there that big of a visible difference between these two formats when telecined for 16x9?

Thanks Will. I ended up getting a K-3 off Craigslist and it came with a Peleng 8mm. Might be fun using a stabilizer with that lens. I'll make a cheap version to see if the cable release is going to cause any problems.

Sorry to bring up this old thread, Will, but I was wondering if you ever got around to using a stabilizer with a Scoopic. I'm curious, and this would apply to other cameras using stabilization like the K-3, how do you engage the trigger? I take it you would use a cable release, but does that do anything to throw off the balance if you were using it on say a Glidecam 4000? If anyone else has experience with this, please chime in!

Thanks, Will. I should have mentioned this will be for nothing more than glorified home/surf movies so I don't want to spend too much money. But perhaps I'll save a little bit more and wait until a good deal on a super16 pops up on ebay. Thanks again for taking the time to answer my question.

Which, if any, of the lower end 16mm cameras can have their viewfinder modified to match the aspect ratio of Ultra16? I don't like the idea of having to guestimate the frame lines if I'm going to be shooting something that's already difficult to track like a surfer on a wave. From what I've found so far, sounds like the K-3 is out of the question. Thanks in advance for your help.