Reinhard Herberigs

It will also give you an idea when loading V50D or Vision3 50D into your cam! By the way E100D is still available and will for some time. As you are located in the UK check out Wittner in Germany, also Gauge film in the UK: www.gaugefilm.co.uk I think prices are quite reasonnable, however I do not know processing quality of Gauge film. Wittner as well as Andec in Germany are excellent.

Hi to everybody, indeed it is really a quite complicate subjet as Richard said and it is always worth to shoot a testfilm due to the age of our cameras. Bill, next time give it a try and set the button to the sun symbol please (at least for some scenes) and maybe you will see your next E100D with other eyes ;-) Do not forget that your lightmeter may be a bit disadjusted which may end up in good results even with a non-optimal setting. Let us know ... same for James !

Attention Bill ! It is not true that you have to set each Super8- camera to the bulb symbol in order to withdraw the internal 85 filter. The internal filter is often already withdrawn by the cartidge! The Nizo constructors have been fully aware about daylight and artificial film material. There a 2 pins (please check that again for the 4080, i checked the 6080), the lower one searches for a daylight or tungsten film cartridge. I used my Nizo professional the first time also with bulb setting and received somewhat dark pictures because it exposed 2/3 stops under (I used the E100D however). Later i noticed that the filter was withdrawn just by inserting the cartridge as there is a second pin which detects a daylight cartridge. If you use a Beaulieu 4008 for example you are rigtht. You must withdraw the filter manually and set the camera to the correct filmspeed (e.g. 50 ASA for the V50D or 100 ASA for the E100D). Also some simple cameras with just 1 pin need your recommended setting. These cameras will work fine by setting them to the bulb symbol as they will then detect the Velvia 50D as a 40ASA film with use of no filter. If you set the Nizo 4080 to the bulb symbol it will read the V50D as ASA 64 and expose the film a little bit under by 1/3 stop. However this may also work as 1I3 stop is not much but I recommend to give the V50D (and the E100D also) some more light by 1/3 stop. The E100D comes out with finer grain if you open the aperture by 1/3-2/3 stop. Try it! Honestly this theme may fear a beginner but ... just try both positions with your first cartridge as a test. As Dave already said the lightmeter may be a bit disadjusted anyway. No fear ..

Exactly ! It is only 1/3 stop and this will be absolutely no problem. I used the Velvia 50D in a Nizo professional which reads the film also as 40D. Be sure to set the button for artificial/daylight filter to the sun symbol as the Super8-cartridge will disable the artificial built-in filter automatically. Setting the switch to the bulb symbol will cause an underexposure by 2/3 stops. The Velvia50D is a very good film, fine grain and sharp.

It is said that the insolvency administrators stopped E100D and recalculated Kodak's selling prices. As a result B/W stock (Tri-X) will double (!) in price and negative stock will be sold at higher prices. That's not nice but Super8 and other formats will continue !

Thank you ! I agree 110%

Unbelievable :-) Nice link, thank you !

Dear Yaran, You will get a PM from me. One note: Most of the people think that they can get an old high-end camera for nearly zero. But ... all these cams have never seen a maintenance, They are disadjusted, the light meter does not work correct and the speed is not good adjusted anymore. If you give the cam a service you will directly feel ,hear and see the difference. It does not cost the world, but you should invest the money in a service instead of buying the next faulty cam. Best reagards Reinhard

Yes, Björn Andersson is definitely a recommendation. He worked a long time for Beaulieu. Can you tell what he repaired and the costs ?Just to have an idea ... Best regards Reinhard

I hope you are correct ... My old original 30mA charger is feeding a quite new Ni-Mh1000mAh batterie from Wittner and it works fine ... It is written that this batterie 1000 mAh must charge for 36h with the old charger 30mA. With a charger 100mA it would reduce the time to "only" 12h I have heard of better chargers for these type of batteries but can not advise in this matter. Anyway your actual batteries should give at least some good power after a full day of charging. I sometimes plug in the charger in the evening and take it off the next evening. But 30 seconds running time after 3 hours do not sound sooo bad for that one batterie providing the batterie was really empty. Please note one very (!!!) important point: I don't know your experience but as you know these cameras are more than 30 years old. If they have never been cleaned or lubricated they run "dry" which causes high internal resistance and wear. So please take that into account: it makes much more fun to run a well cleaned and lubricated 4008. A complete and professional maintenance with the appropriate (!) lubrication oil will cost about USD200,- which you will never regret. So it is not always only the batterie if you have problems, low running times may also be caused by a dry drive. I have an old 4008 ZM which runs about 25% of the time which a lubricated 4008ZM4 is giving to me ! Like you i have several 4008 and I am a great fan of these models. Buit they need some care ! Much success ! Reinhard

Sorry I made a mistake, the "TESt" position is of NO influence as long as the camera is switched off, sorry. Just try to charge a longer time but NO reaction after some hours is a bad sign...

Hi Matthew, do not set the camera to the "Test" position as this will continiously take power from the batterie. 3 hours of charging time is not enough anyway, you should charge at least for 12 hours with the standard charger for the 4008 (30mA), may be even more depending on the size of your batterie. After charging you should set the cam to "TEST", then push the rear button (=MAINS ON) and look into the viewfinder. The aperture needle should show up at least in a horizontal position,the manual indicates that it should be even higher. Do you have new batteries or recelled ones, used or new, from ebay ? If you use more recent batterie types like the newer Ni-Mh or Li-Ion batteries (I think you do not use the old Ni-Cd batteries?) then you will find better chargers in electronic shops. The original charger for the 4008 was made for Ni-Cd batteries although I still use this charger since years for my Ni-Mh batterie without any problems. Guys here should give recommendations to that Ni-Mh or Li-Ion issue, I am not an expert in this. Best regards and much success, Reinhard

Hi Yaron, The Beaulieu 6008 was originally delivered with: 1. Schneider 1,4/6-70 as a standard which is definitely a very good lens. 2. Beaulieu Makro-Zoom 1,4/6.9-55, a budget version which originates from Japan 3. Angénieux 1,4/6-90 lens, highend version which you will not find very often I recommend to use one of the the lenses and previewed of the 6008S. The Schneider lens 1,8/6-66 is a very fine lens but was never delivered with the 6008S. It has a better macro function but the 1.4/6-70 version is a bit faster and has a somewhat better resolution in case of open apertures. In order to save money I would first check the lens and then adapt it to the cam if you feel it could improve results. Do not only look for the lens but also for a faulty 6008S but with a prestine lens. My own experiences show, that the Angénieux lenses have more often fungus inside than the Schneider lenses - honestly I would opt for the 1.4/6-70 By the way, lenses can be cleaned from fungus if there is not to much fungus inside and the lens worth being cleaned. I have possibilities here. So you should also check if you have this opportunity in your region. Best regards, Reinhard

OK Marc, thank you. As I said I still have Single8 cartridges with Fuji Velvia 50D and you still get them ... but I am looking into the future and would like to use E100D also ... I will also check for S8mm stock on reels. I think you agree that this would be more effective (and cheaper) than transfering film from a Super8 cartridge into a Single8 catridge. Anyway ... my ZC1000 is ready ! Best wishes !

Hiello to everybody, in German forums this is also an issue. It appears that the E100D asks for a steady drive with a correct adjusted friction drive for winding up the film. This is a very, very important point ! Up to today I never had problems with E100D-cartridges in cams which have received a good (!) maintenance before. However some E100D cartridges have been opened (after making trouble) and found to be manufactured in a bad way e.g. forgotten parts inside. This may call for problems but not necessarily ! Therefore you should not hesitate to complain in order that Kodak is aware and assures a proper manufacturing of the cartridges. But do not forget that the cam's drive is playing a much more important role than before with K40. And yes, cartridges should warm up slowly in the foil before they are used. 2h is a minimum, in general I put the cartridges from the deep freezer (btw rumours say that deep freezing is NOT the best way for film storage because of risks of micro cracks within the emulsion) into the fridge for 1-2 days before I take them out on a table for another half day or more. Then shake the cartridge, gentle tap it (do not beat) in order to loose the film windingst, then open the foil, put the cartridge in the cam and enjoy :-)