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James Honeycutt

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Everything posted by James Honeycutt

  1. Hello Frank... I am sure the many members of the Auricon group would appreciate any of your photos, literature and information you can bring. If you join, I can post links to the photo area and the literature area if that is not clear. Feel free to down load anything that you might find helpful. I look forward to joining the group. best, Jack
  2. Hello friends... The Auricon Optical Sound Users group was started in March of 2007. The group is still going strong and is free to join, and we never ask for any money. The group started on the free Yahoo users groups. When that went away, we moved to Group IO. We collect Auricon literature, develop help documents on camera and optical sound amp repair, supply modern battery packs for powering older Auricon vacuum tube optical sound amps who's old time batteries from the 1940s - 1970s batteries are no longer available. Some schematics are available for modern solid state amps are available and a new modern solid state amp (pre built as well as a kit) is in the works. Most members are in the US, but we have members in Canada, England, the EU, Australia, and other places. Polite conversation only please. Here is a link to join the users group: https://groups.io/g/AuriconOpticalSound We maintain the Auricon Wiki here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auricon I am the moderator, and if you have any issues in joining the users group, you can contact me here: mailto:mraroid@gmail.com Best, Jack
  3. Thank you for your post Gareth. Great links. jack
  4. Hello Gerale,,,, That camera has been on ebay for over a year and never sold. That is because it is greatly overpriced. I suggest you keep looking. A working Cinevoice can be had for around $350. You can buy some of the small RA amps in that sale for around the same price or less. Join our free group on Auricon and optical sound for more information. We never ask for any money... https://groups.io/g/AuriconOpticalSound jack
  5. Quick question Dom.... The short stubby lens that has the ASA window in it. Is that suppose to to be able to turn with your hand to set the ASA? Mine is stuck and will not move. Maybe I need to wait until my battery arrives? The manual from the UK is a good week or more away. best, mraroid
  6. Hello Doug... I think I am really going to like this lens. As a past owner, you know that it takes a 1.35V battery to power the auto. It used a mercury battery in the old days. I have faced this issue before with a built in light meter in one of my Super8 cameras. I found a very nice, but slightly costly solution. I bought this little guy out of Japan: https://www.ebay.com/itm/403568363371 You buy off the shelf hearing aid batteries and drop one into this device. The hearing aid batteries are called a silver oxide 386 battery. I bought a 5 pack on Amazon for very little money. I bought Everready brand, but they sell many off brand 386 batteries for much less. It is going to take a good week or more for the adapter to arrive in the US from Japan. But if it works as well as the one I bought for my Super8 camera, I will be very happy with it. mraroid
  7. Thanks again Dom. After your post, I was able to capture the links you posted and read them in detail. Now I know how to do it thanks to you. I very much appreciate your help. Best, mraroid
  8. Hello Dom... Thank you so much for the above information. I will explore the links you have posted. Just an hour or so ago, I found the Bolex manual for this lens. I live in the US, and the company selling manuals is in the UK. Here is a link: https://www.camera-manual.com/bolex-vario-switar-lenses-manual-23324 The manual I just bought was for the Bolex Vario Switar 86 EE (18 - 86/f ). I think this is the closest match to the lens on my camera. I suspect the manuals are photo copies. I hope they are clearly printed. It will probably take a while for it to arrive in the US from the UK, but it should tell me a great deal about the lens. I gather from the links you posted that the lens can go to automatic mode (I need the battery first), or manual mode. I suspect the manual will tell me how to do this. Thank you again for the links and great information. best, mraroid
  9. Hello folks... I have searched everywhere for a data sheet or manual for my II Kern Paillard, Vario Switar, 1:2,5, F-18, 86mm, EE, H 16 RX lens. I believe Bolex made it (?) and it was called the Vario Switar 86 f2.5 18-86mm EE, but I am not sure of this. I know this lens takes a battery but I have no idea where the battery is located. Can anyone give me a clue? Also, I would like the manual for this lens if one was made and if not, maybe a data sheet talking about this lens. Any advice or links would be greatly appreciated. I will try to attach a small photo with red arrows where i think the battery may be located. Thank you, mraroid
  10. Hello... I realize this post is old, but if you are still around, where do you put the battery? And do you have a source for the manual for this lens? Thank you, mraroid
  11. It has been a while, but do you still have this camera? I am in the US. I am looking for documentation on this camera. I also have a little bit of knowledge about it. IF you open the door where the film runs, I can tell you if you have a mag sound pickup head in the camera and/or a galvo for optical sound. jack
  12. Greetings.... The original Auricon optical Sound Users Group was stated over 10 years ago using yahoo groups. As you may have heard, Yahoo groups, for the most part, going away. While most of our discussions, files and photos are still heavily weighted towards Auricon optical sound, we have, over the years, discussed any other older optical sound formats. We collect documents and other data on all aspects of optical sound. We help in the repair of older optical sound cameras and amplifiers. We also maintain the Auricon Optical Sound Wiki. We ask for no money. We are a group that shares information. If you are into sharing information or would like help in making that older camera or amplifier work again, you are welcome. Super8, 16mm, and 35 mm formats are all areas of discussion. Polite conversation only please. To visit our web page, you can find us here at our new home in GroupI/O: https://groups.io/g/AuriconOpticalSound You can subscribe by sending email to: AuriconOpticalSound+subscribe@groups.io jack honeycutt, moderator mraroid@gmail.com
  13. Hello.... I shot mostly film and little digital. I also shoot 3D. I use a Bolex 3D film camera and shoot 3D but I have also bought a Sony 3D digital camera to shoot 3D. I work under Windows. The software I use now is Sony movie studio platinum 13 and Sony Vegas Pro 12. Pro 12 will let me import, edit and burn in 2K. I and many of my friends have moved to the newer Ultra 4K Blu-ray players and I have a LG OLED Ultra 4K TV. I like the fact that I can stream You Tube videos in 4K. I have been having my 16mm motion picture film scanned in at 4K or 5K. I would like the ability to edit and burn in 4K. By burn, I want 4K Ultra​ blu-ray authoring software. I do not mind if I need to buy one program to edit and export 4K content to another program to author a blu-ray. Or it can be the same program. I am looking for suggestions. I am very pleased with Sony Vegas Pro 12 and do not know if a upgrade to that would be a good idea or maybe switch to other software. I am looking for suggestions. Help Appreciated. Is this the correct form to post this question? Or many another place altograther to go to ask my question? Thanks you, mraroid
  14. Hello... I have a cart of the new Super8 Ektachrome 7294 (100 ASA). I would like to shoot some film at night of the christmas lights in the yards and houses on my block. I have never tried to shot film in the dark before and I am looking for any tips you can give me. My camera is a Canon 1014 XL-S. The shutter in my camera has a variable opening angle. Usually it is set to 150 degrees. But I can change it to 220 degrees for filming in dim light. I have not used this shutter setting before but I thought I would try. I can set the camera to 9 fps, 18 fps and 24 fps. The manual says that if the fps is set to 18, the shutter speed is about 1/40th of a second. If I change the shutter angle to 220, then the shutter speed would be at about 1/30th of a second. I am unsure what fps to use. I normally shot everything at 24 fps. I also have a exposure dial on this camera. I can increase or decrease the exposure setting by one F stop. I am guessing I need to increase the exposure setting by one F stop. (?) I worry that the depth of field will be so greatly reduced that the christmas yard displays would be in focus but not with the lights in the background on the houses. I know to pan slowly. Can someone of you give me a few suggestions on how to shoot christmas lights in the dark? I am completely new to this kind of filming. Thanks in advance. mraroid Oregon, US
  15. Folks.... Deep in my frig I found a Super8 cart of Ektachrome 7240. I bought it new, and kept it in the frig. I just shot it off. Calling around, it seems that the usual places no longer process VNF-1. Serveral labs said they could process it as E-6, but the colors would come out magenta. Depending on how much color is left in this old film, even a scan to digital and color correcting may not bring it back I was told. Any chance that a lab some place outside of the US would still develop using VNF-1? Thanks in advance, jack
  16. Hi... I am looking for some 35mm, 100ft, metal, daylight spools. I am not interested in plastic microfiche reels/spools. I want the metal kind. They look like 100 ft 16mm daylight spools. I need ten of then. If you have any for sale, please let me know. Thanks jack mailto:mraroid@gmail.com
  17. Gentleman... Thank you both for all the good information. I have found that the color I shot does not show what I am calling grain. I do have a high end HD color TV. I could transfer the film to Blu-ray and view it on the TV to see if it still looks grainy. Good idea. Dave, I did not have my film transferred at any of the transfer houses on your list. I just received a quote from Scanity for $600 for 400 feet. A bit on the high side for me. I am sending email to Spirit and see what they may charge me. I wish my HD TV wold let me stream from my USB 3.0 hard drive directly to the screen. I will update my progress here. Thank you Dirk and Dave for the many tips. I will start looking into it. many thanks, jack
  18. Hi... I shot some 16mm Tri-X and had it processed and then transferred to digital. The format I selected is the same I have used in the past for HD transfers. It is called 1080p Apple Pro Res 422 HQ. When I project my film, the parts that were exposed correctly look about as good as anyone would want. Sharp, clear, nice balcks, whites, and grays. I am very happy with it. However, my digital transfer is very grainy. It is grainy enough to be annoying. The transfer does not appear to be overly cropped. About the same time this happened, I sent another lab some B&W shot in 1955 and had it transferred in SD. I could not see any grain at all and it looked really sharp to my eyes. Am I being to picky, or should I have it transferred again and pay for a colorist? Or is something else going on here? Any advice appreciated. Thanks jack Portland Oregon
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