Jonathan Shapiro

one suggestion (it's quite small but...) : For the opening (the writing "I love you and goodbye....written by... etc.etc.), I would have shot it in natural lighting on an overcast day so that the hand doesn't cast a shadow (unless you like the shadow, I personally do not).

Thank you both! I was quite excited, but then I realized that figuring out where/what magazine to buy would be way too complicated. "Before you start spending money, you should do a little more research. How do you intend to view what you've shot? Buying a camera and film is only the first expense. You then need to get the film developed, and to watch it you either have to have it transferred to a digital file, or projected in a projector." I would love to project it (i think the video production teacher at our high school has a projector), but if I do not have those utilities, then I will view it digitally. After I buy the camera, everything (EVERYTHING) will be about cost effectivness (so if it is cheaper to project it, that is what I will do, if it is cheaper to watch it digitally, that is what I will do). I want to hand edit though as opposed to computer edit. I seen some cheap equipment floating around on youtube. Maybe after I get better versed at everything I could buy cheap 16 mm equipment. The idea of using reversal seems great. Is it the same price and everything? Do most people buy their film online or at a store (And if so, what store?). "My choice would be standard 8 (also called regular or double 8). In vogue from the 30s to the 60s, then made obsolete by Super 8. Lots of wind-up cameras that use 25 ft spools (don't get a magazine one), are completely manual, and pretty cheap. The little Bolex ones are great. You can still get film (try http://www.zerelda.c...tionalfilm.html), and processing. Projectors are usually cheap too. Except for a few Russian models, Super 8 cameras are all battery powered and plastic, which doesn't sound like what you want, even if they're easier to use. I personally find it much more fun to use a well-made old metal camera that you have to wind up. (No offense to all the S8 lovers out there!) Plenty of 16mm wind-ups out there too, usually cost a bit more though, as do the projectors." I was about to buy a standard 8 but was recommmended against it because the person I talked to said that you cannot buy standard 8 film (but you have proved him wrong I guess). I would be all for buying one (they are exactly what I want), but in the long run will they still continue creating film for standard 8's (whatever model I buy will be the one that i hopefully use my whole life). Does accesibility translate to cost effectivness (because 16mm is more cost effective [right?] wouldn't it be cheaper and so if I could find a metal, wind-up 16 mm wouldn't it be more cost effective to buy it as opposed to a standard 8? From what I have read from your post it seems to me that I should buy a 16mm, buy REVERSAL (is all 16mm compatible with all 16 mm cameras?), and then see if I can borrow a film splicer and projector (and then I am set, yes?). Unless standard 8 film is cheaper then 16mm which I would think wouldnt be the case because standard 8 is rarer. Last thing: I am confused about the whole magazine aspect. So do wind-ups not need magazines? or are they they only cameras that need magazines...or do ALL Cameras need magazines?

one last bit of info... Will I need to buy a cartridge/magazine if I get that camera. The seller says that I just need to get a lens, but the camera does not have a magazine or cartridge....

Update: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390467935477 For this one, the person is willing to sell me it for 10.00 and send it for only 10.00 shipping (even though it is more money). About to accept the offer but wanted to have someone check it out and make sure it is functional etc... Can someone verify these things for me?

Thank you all for the immediate responses. I plan on sometimes filming in black and white and sometimes filming in color. But from what I am inferring (and seeing on the internet), CRT screens are a whole different ball game, correct? I meant a camera that needed to be wound up or "cranked", not the "Lumiere brothers type thing". I wasn't familiar with the Lomokino, but the price is unfortunetly a massive deterant. "Also, it's possible to shoot 16mm for around the same cost as super8 (sometimes cheaper!) but there are a number of factors you need to take in to account." ^This is gold. I would love to learn the major factors which I should take into account. I knew that I was looking at things way to simply. "I always say the Canon 310XL is the best starter camera. Pretty much focuses itself and has the fastest lens of all time." My one qualm with this is I would like to have as much control as possible (with of course my money limit). I bid on this camera. I offered 16 dollars (and there is 9 dollars shipping, so it would amount to 25 dollars in all). No feedback yet. If I get the product for that amount, would people consider that I got it at a good price (factoring in shipping). If not I will pressure the person into either selling it to me or nulifying the offer. I hope that I do not increase my competition for these items, but I will take that risk. Here are the other 3 items that I am watching: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251210965149?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Is this one handwound or not? If I got it for 25 dollars (including shipping) would it be a good price? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390467935477 I am really, really interested in this piece. The seller says that she will ship it for the exact price (not charge extra). I have offered 10 dollars. Assuming shipping is around 10 dollars too, all I will need to buy is a lens. Does the camera look functional, how cheaply could I find a useable lens, and would it be a good buy (if the offer was accepted). Lastly, I was thinking of offering 18$ for this movie camera (it would amount to 30 in all), but was advised to go for the argus instead.

Hello I did not not whether to post this in the "Students and First Time Filmmakers" section or under the "Cameras Systems and Formats" section, but decided to post here because of the primitive nature of my question. I recently was inspired to look at film movie camera prices. After seeing the cheap prices on ebay (99 cents for beautiful antiques that were "working") I really wanted to buy a cheap model (I am a student so I have at most 30$ to spend). I asked a friend of my sisters who goes film school about them, and he brought me to my senses and told me that it is almost impossible to find 8mm film (not surprisingly, they were all movie cameras that took 8mm film or double run). Don't want to bother him anymore, so I will be asking questions here. He told me to get one that took super 8 film because it is the cheapest film (and it and 16 mm are the only accessible types). Question 1: When I go online, it shows super 8 film more expensive then 16 mm. http://compare.ebay.com/like/140523928548?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar 450 ft of 16 mm for 60 dollars Everytime I find super 8 film, 50 ft is 22 dollars...I feel like I am way oversimplifying this. Can someone link me to the cheapest super 8 and cheapest 16 mm that can be found? Question 2: What attracts me to filmmaking (with film) is the process and hands-on components that it brings (as opposed to digital). Consequently, my "ideal camera" would be one that takes the cheapest film, but also is hand-cranked. From what I understand, camearas that took Super 8 film were made after they stopped making hand cranked movie cameras. Is that correct? Would it be impossible for me to find a super 8 camera that also has a handcrank (I don't want to go mix and match or something like that)? Question 3: As an ebay shopper, are there distinguishing features that I can use to detect if a camera will not work? For instance, my friend who is very into film photography says that if that place where you load the cartridge is scratched, then the film will always be messed up. Are there similar things like that that apply to movie cameras? Thank you for all your help (and I hope that I posted in the right forum) Jonathan