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Simon Lucas

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Everything posted by Simon Lucas

  1. DIY is possible. It is the long route. To do it by pro route, you can also get some safe posting packs from http://www.wittner-kinotechnik.de/katalog/04_filmm/s8_meter.php Load your film onto one of those reels and they will process for you. Look for: 'Deadline Set for Super 8 meter 15m'
  2. Sounds hopeful and quite exciting. What was Scotch Chrome100 like as a film? How did it look?
  3. I hadn't seen the story before. What kind of film might they be planning for super 8? Colour?
  4. Adox have re-engineered the defunkt CHS100. It's called CHS100 II. Now look down at the list of formats on this page: http://www.adox.de/english/ADOX%20Films/CHS100_II/index.html Could that be correct?
  5. Sorry, I didn't really answer your last question. It sounds like you know already what needs to be done. I'm in UK/Europe so can't answer your real question which is simply about pricing.
  6. Sometimes footage is misinterpreted by the editing s/w. I don't use Sony Vegas Pro 12 so I don't know how it works. So, if you open it in Quicktime and get info it says 24 fps? . They captured it on a 5D? Sounds like they converted from 24fps to 60i and then back to 24 and something went wrong . As far as I understand telecine is no longer an acceptable way of doing this and converting from 24 to 60i to 24 is a potential source of problems. And I don't think want or should be getting interlaced footage either. I'd get it scanned frame by frame by another company and then you'd have proper progressive HD frames which you can interpret at at 24fps. Have it done as Pro Res or single TIFFS. Plenty of people can do this now. Good luck!
  7. Dom, thank-you for the explanation of what is happening, and confirming that this is happening with another 8-64. He looked at other Canons (6.6-66, 10-180) yesterday and they all exhibit this behaviour to some extent. They worked best in the middle of the range. I think for the price and as an interim lens that is versatile it is still a good buy. He has three projects this year and it will stand us in good stead. Maybe he can also afford a single s/h Zeiss s16 standard prime when one comes up. Thank-you for the advice, much appreciated.
  8. Bill - I think the one I was watching on eBay at around £300 didn't actually sell.
  9. Hi Dom, thanks the feedback. They were all shot at 64mm. They were shot at around 2 stops closed. He only had 15 minutes to do the test so they are a limited test. he will do some more tests tomorrow when they have more time. I suggested he shoot at full wide and full zoom. I understand your comment about digital sensors showing up more problems than 16mm would have. This Canon lens is around £2000. My friend is an artist and cannot really afford a brand new lens like a Zeiss at the moment. But I wonder - do you have any other suggestions? Cheers Simon
  10. Hi my friend is thinking of buying a Canon 8-64 S16 lens for his Ikonoskop at a reasonable price. He did some test shots at the seller's premise. We saw chromatic aberration. What do you think of the CA in these, please? Is this to be expected from this lens in general? Or is it this particular lens, perhaps? Any input or advice welcome. Thank-you
  11. The Leicina Special usually comes with its own, arguably, higher quality zoom - the Optivaron 6-66mm. The Japanese-made Nalcom FTL 1000 is an interesting camera with zoom lens and that could have a 35mm SLR lens fitted with an adaptor. There was one for £300-ish on eBay not so long back (with handgrip but no adaptor). http://www.super8data.com/database/cameras_list/cameras_nalcom/cameras_nalcom.htm
  12. Nicholas K has kindly helped with this. Thank-you
  13. I've tried to join the forum at filmshooting.com. Twice with different names and email addresses. That was back in January. Both times I got a welcome message but my account was never approved for login and posting. Does anyone know how to contact awand (his username) of Norway who administrates that forum, please? thank-you. Simon
  14. thank-you. let's see if it works. I may still be able to offer it to you!
  15. Thanks for the help on this. The amazing thing is I looked at the lens focus cylinder and it was meeting the stops at each end. It didn't feel like the problem. So before I took the lens apart I looked at the viewfinder. Pulling/pushing the rigid eye piece adjuster suddenly freed it and it went completely loose. I started to remove the whole viewfinder to look at it and found a tiny grub at the side of the viewfinder beneath the covering that was almost loose and out of its mooring. I could remove it and the eye piece adjuster; put them back; made the eyepiece rotate in its guide. And suddenly I could see and focus the lens properly at all positions. It feels right and I'm hoping that this has fixed it. I'll put a couple of feet of film through it to check it. Maybe I've saved the camera and I've saved £198+VAT from Sendean in Clerkenwell. (Did they even look at it when they did the quote I wonder?)
  16. Thanks. i'll take a look once I get the camera back from the shop. If I feel I cannot do it I'll sell for spares. If it is of any help to others in the future, I have found this Canon 814 repair page with various procedures photo-documented: http://canon-s8-repair.yolasite.com/canon-lens-repair-or-replace.php
  17. Dom, thank-you. I realise that I got my interpretation arse-about-face, now. I've tested my camera meter and my Weston V with a 18% grey card so i can see approx. 1/3 stop difference in reflective readings. A very minor loss of light does occur when zoomed in. So i think I can judge quite well how to adjust the reading for the manual camera setting. But I know the final results will be what matters.
  18. -> Bill - do you think people buy them for spares? Any idea of the worth? -> Mark. Sounds possible. I have a re-fillable super 8 cart so i would not have to waste a full roll. How would the recalibration work, though?
  19. Just bought a very cheap Canon 814. I needed a 2nd camera I could could compare with my Nizo for film/dev testing. The focus is completely out. I can only focus at 60mm end and then have to turn the focus ring the opposite way. I shot a test using a tape measure to set focus and the image was out of focus so it seems like the lens. Also the VF seems fuzzy and the diopter setting is stuck. A camera repair company just quoted me £189 + VAT to fix and service it. That would be nice but out of proportion to the s/h value of the camera, I suspect. What should I do: Junk it? Can I fix it myself? Is that even possible? Sell/give it away it for spares? Advice , please? Or other suggestions? Thank-you.
  20. Thank-you for your replies. Sounds like 1/2 - 3/4 stop light loss. I cant actually see any change in the metering take place between wide and zoom, though. So, if the display shows the actual f-stop after compensation, then would it also follow that when setting aperture manually (from a hand-held meter reading) the exposure would be correct. (This pre-supposes using correct ASA and shutterspeed values and correct meter usage.) Effectively - we would be ignoring any light-loss issues. You can see where I'm going with this, but I find the way that the metering works slightly opaque in the Super 8 camera. As I'm also trying to pin down my film development times I need to know what the actual exposure was when I shoot a test strip.
  21. It's been discussed here before : The internal meter on a Super 8 camera (typically) compensates for the loss of light split off by the prism for the meter and the viewfinder and changes due to focal length. I have read as many threads on this topic as I can but there seems to be one question that has not been asked. When the viewfinder shows an f-stop - is that the value before or after compensation for light loss? I'm using a Nizo Professional but think this a general question.
  22. Bill, thanks for the tip. I had noticed some prices on a super8 site that showed £500 for cameras (all marked sold) so I guess they were quite old prices. I looked last night and saw some Canon 814 Electronic at £ 30-90. I think one of those might be a good second camera to have even if I do get the Nizo repaired/serviced. Or is it worth throwing in the towel and investing in a Leicina special? Not sure I can really justify the outlay at the moment, when the 814s are probably nearly as good in practical terms.
  23. Bill. Thank-your input - in a way I'd rather approach someone who does Nizo/super8 specifically so your suggestions are good. I know of Frank as we have just sent a roll to him for processing. But I'll think about Gottfried Klose as I have a good German friend who I know would help. But immediately I'm attracted by Sendean as I can even take the camera direct to Clerkenwell on the way to work. I read one good feedbacl of them and at least they have a picture of a Nizo on their site (i know it's only decoration but I'm a sucker for that kind of totally transparent psychological device). I will call them and discuss it first before I think about Germany. Maybe I need to see the full roll of Kodak 100D come back from Frank so I can evaluate the focus further. My tests have all been running small lengths of Tri-X and Pan-X Reverso through a Wittner refillable cartridge and I don't really know whether that could be causing the problem. I have a Nizo Professional. I now see that they cost a small fortune to buy so it is worth getting it serviced at least.
  24. ok. looked a bit harder and found these guys http://www.sendeancameras.co.uk/ and Axco Instruments Ltd. The other question (b) still stands, though if you have any comments!
  25. example. Yes, it's dirty as I dropped the test strip before it was completely dry. The angle is the cut edge of the strip and that should indicate scan focus is on track. http://www.studioshitless.com/tmp/pan-x_12m.jpg
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