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Luigi Castellitto

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Everything posted by Luigi Castellitto

  1. Good offer, Gareth, thank you. At the moment I don't have that economic figure, but I would do a thought... I remember someone here have this machine, from the research you're talking about it, I think you have it. What do you think about it?
  2. I step into the discussion. What about the 16mm Pentaflex? If lucky you can find a complete kit (without lens) for the price of a Krasnogorsk 3, but I imagine it is much higher.
  3. What do you think of the Bell & Howell clone, Kiev 16 C-3? Usual problems of the Soviets or not, because is a clone?
  4. It's a Svema, of which I spoke here: http://www.cinematography.com/index.php?showtopic=78428 Just because of the unusual type of film came the surprise. I used other Soviet films, but they were newer and had the daylight spool. I could decide to not develop it, but since a bet also what will come out from the development, I could "accept" even the aesthetics of some veiling.
  5. I usually load my cameras in total darkness, I have acquired a manual that allows me. Yesterday, however, I loaded my K3 in subdued light for some technical reasons. For subdued light I mean that the room was total dark, with windows close, with only the light of another room adjacent with a single light bulb on, half-open door. In short, I open the film can and I realize too late that, being an old film and expired long ago, it was not in daylight spool, but in core. I insert it immediately in the changing bag and I pass it on a daylight spool, then I load the camera, always in attenuated light. What chance could there be that the film has veiled on the sides? The film is a color, 40 asa, expired. Thank you. :)
  6. Of course, Mark, I already have pro lightmeters (Gossen, digital Sekonic, etc.); as I said, it was just to have the camera complete in all its functions, but I would never spend high numbers to get it. I would only repair it for some coins, better always use the coupled K3 + external lightemeter, always!
  7. I also say that it is good to keep the Bolex (if you don't have reflex better to get one of them). By now, you already have something of higher quality, it's better not to go back. If instead you had to start, I would have said K3, which has defects but for the beginning it is easy to use.
  8. I was of the idea shared with Tyler on the distance of the film in the gate, I had not thought about the lack of collimation; interesting. At this point I add: it's not convenient to convert the K3 in Super 16mm. Or have to make a professional laboratory, that really knows what it does. It is also at risk to buy it already modified on ebay. However, I also agree with Marius's vision: with the K3 it is a bit 'annoying to bring with you various lens, it's a camera more for "shot and go". But at the same time it is not convenient to repair it...
  9. Yes, Tyler, in the previous K3 I had the lightmeter working (with good result in film, strange!), I also had the adapter for the right tension, bought from that specialized New York shop. I have already found a broken cable, very thin as you describe. It is the one that held the "peg" that draws voltage from the battery. Broken the cable, peg came out... And one. I'll have to open camera from the front as you say, but also from the plate, sure there is some other problem. However it did not seem to me a lightmeter difficult to repair, it is very "rough".
  10. Thank you, Todd, and I had another confirmation that these Svema can be developed with E6. I'm shoting an expired thirty years, I'll tell you how it will go!
  11. Yes, Mark, the K3 has a fairly standard shutter speed, as well as a certain tolerance, being a non-impeccable machine. For a personal whim, I would try to fix the internal lightmeter or have it repaired by someone, but the overhaul for K3 that I found are all in the United States, I would need it in Europe. Does anyone know one? We all know the quality of the K3 not so much to spend more money, and also the ability to buy another ffor few coins, but it could be nice to have a K3 revised and calibrated with extreme professionalism and not to buy two or three cameras. :)
  12. I agree with Tyler, it's one or both loops. In order to lose the loops, it is sufficient even if ONE perforation is damaged. Although the image seemed to recover for a few moments, but perhaps only because the speed was less. I also noticed some light leaks that seemed to predict instability. Usually the light infiltrations, common in K3, are random in the image, while I saw that in your case there is one that often appears in the upper half of the frame. As for the focus: the regulator of the diopter was set according to your eye?
  13. I replaced my old K3 with another without loopers, which seems run well. Unfortunately, the internal lightmeter doesn't work. With my old K3 and working lightmeter, even everything say bad about it, I have always used getting a good exposure. I would like to try to fix it, the needle comes out if I move the knob of ASA, but it not move with light. Tips? Hopefully, I will use one external lightmeter. Are these below values good (from instructions manual)? Or is it the case that I look at the fps speeds on lightmeter?
  14. Edwin, did you accidentally leave the Bolex turret in a wrong position? Did it cover the shutter a little? It's such a typical mistake that the Bolex manual reports it as possible. :) The third film will be good!
  15. Does anyone have to sell a Krasnogorsk 3, only body? No lenses, without filters, without various accessories (rubber eyepiece, bag)... body only. 16mm normal, not Super 16 For screw lens. In full working order. At a reasonable price. :) Thank you.
  16. News. It's now a monolayer. : D I managed to unscrew the piece. But the plunger of cable is "welded" inside the piece, not pull out any more, I would like to change the piece, which is also ruined and stripped off. Does anyone have spare parts K3? Does anyone have it? I have already asked to Oleg Khalyavin, I'll see that he will answer me, in the meantime if there are others... :)
  17. Ok, I opened it, but I'm always in trouble. The piece of cable is in that cannula in the picture. The cannula has a small screw that I unscrewed, the cannula moves to the right and the left, but I don't understand if it can be removed or unscrewed. Who knows this piece?
  18. Even with the smallest tongs I could not extract the plunger. I have to open the camera... In the meantime ... Does anyone have an original shutter release cable Krasnogorsk 3 to sell? I read that many people gave problems (not the same version, apparently), but it always worked well for me. This version is Ok:
  19. Hello, as you can see from the photo, the shutter release of my K3 has broken inside the camera. I also managed to take it with a nipper (but only by holding down the front release button, only so it moves out of a millimeter, otherwise it slips too much inside), but it is very hard to pull out, could it be blocked? I have to get myself a very thin nipper, I'm already doing too much damage to the screw thread ... Meanwhile: I'm using the K3, which runs regularly. Can I have trouble shoting with the the litter piece inside? Thank you. :)
  20. I have read old discussions and I think I will have to do it, I know that then my machine will always be performing forever. I thought of you because you're the closest geographically, sending to the United States would cost me too much. At the moment I don't have the amount, but I put aside some money and I do it. With a little savings, I managed to revise the Beaulieu 400 ZM II, the Pathé DS8, now it's up to Bolex. And tell me, Simon, is it necessary to send the lenses too (I use the three Kern Switar and the Pan-Cinor 40 zoom) for the collimation? Thank you.
  21. For the first time in years and years, and after dozens of 25-inch films, I'm using a 100 foot Fomapan R100 film with my Bolex H8 Rex4. I noticed this: having unloaded the camera, for various reasons, at 55 feet, and then reloading it, bringing it back to 55 feet (shutter closed, of course!) I saw that the motor struggles a bit ', at speeds from 32fps and next forwards. I mentioned unloading and loading, because I could well test the motor, to bring film back to 55 feet... Perhaps it suffers from micro slowdowns, perhaps. Grease issue? I think it's the only possible solution! Again, no problem with the 25 feet reels (and 10 meters reels of Fompan), no problems with the 100 feet from 24fps to down. Only with 100 feet and 32fps to up. It seems that It can not always drag the biggest reel. What do you think? Do I have to put grease? I've never done it since I bought it. Thank you.
  22. Todd, I wanted to buy too the film Svema in DS8 (I noticed that it shows the sign "s" instead of "c", obviously in cyrillic). On the web there are discordant opinions, who says he has had good results with the E6, and who says he almost destroyed the emulsion. We await those who can help us!
  23. Thanks Simon, I have about 7 meters of this film (DP3) in Double 8, I'll see how I can use them.
  24. I took a box of Svema CO32d (ЦО32д) 16mm, expired in 1977, a soviet reversal color film. People told me that development in E6 is possible, is it true? Otherwise, there are laboratories that use the "right" methods (Orwo and old methods of Iron Curtain), but if I could do it in E6 I could do it in Italy and save a it of money. Thank you.
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