Luigi Castellitto

Andries, can you sell only a separate length of the film? Thank you.

Bryan, is it also possible that in a different position, after half panning and blocking, change the level detected by two bubbles? Because of the imperfect floor, inaccurate tiles, etc.

Guys, a tip: it's normal that in nominate tripod with legs locked and head vertically blocked, doing a panning complete of 360 degrees the two bubbles circled in the image (not mine), at the beginning are centered, but then they move to one side, and then return to the center at the end of the panning? Thank you.

It's an ND filter that changes density by turning the ring. I have one, paid about the same price, but the quality is not satisfactory compared to other constant density filters of the most famous brands.

Another important thing: my adapter ring has a 0.5mm (but I think that 0,75mm it's also Ok) thickness of the threaded part of the male side of adapter, towards the Macro Switars, and it's Ok... While my adapter has 0.75mm thickness on female threaded part for receive the filters. In my case, with all my filters, all went well, but you have to be lucky with the thickness of the threaded part of the filters you want to mount. Although, usually, 0.75mm is a fairly standard measure.

Ah, the Bolex H8 models never had the comfortable filter slot behind the lens like the H16 version. MAYBE only in cases it was self-installed, if possible, but I've never seen it before. My H8 Rex 4 does not have it. If any Bolex expert who wants to deny it ... I'd be curious to know if it ever existed. :)

Bibhusan, do you mean the three Kern-Paillard Macro-Switar lenses for H8? As Simon rightly says, 12,5-5,5-36? if yes, they have a diameter of 32mm, all three, as you can read in attachment image from H8 instruction manual. You can consider this thread interesting: http://www.cinematography.com/index.php?showtopic=75710&hl=%2Bmacro+%2Bswitar But I summarize here by saying that: 32mm filters are rare to find, it's more convenient to buy adapter rings. The measurement of adapter ring for you is 32mm male to...diameter of filters you want to buy or you have already! I had so many (80A, ND, etc.) 49mm diameter filters because I always used them with the same H8, but with a Pan Cinor zoom lens with 49mm diameter of filter holder of lens hood. For this reason, in the end, I found a 32mm male to 49mm female ring adapter and I'm OK, I had no vignetting problems. But, attention, everything it can be different, vignetting risk depending on the size of the filters and size of the adapter rings. The biggest risk is with 5.5 lens, but I don't know how big this risk is. I did not have any vignetting problems, as I said.

In the end I opted for the Sixtar 2, paid little, but produced in 1978 and with "modern" silicon blue cell. The Sixtar 1 instead had the cadmium sulphide at had been produced in 1966. http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Gossen_Sixtar I gave up the Lunasix 3 black version (perhaps produced after 1976) and the "S" version because I discovered that the "cine" ring had been eliminated, not essential but still convenient. I hope the thread is useful for those looking for a "reserve" lightmeter. :)

Thank you, Igor, I think I'll just take a Gossen, which I'm also used for aesthetics. I search a lot, in addition to Gossen Profisix and Gossen Lunasix F (and US version) I also searched the Gossen Lunalite (Luna-Lux in US), for see if I could save a little 'more: I can find good prices, but no guarantee of calibration, while at a higher cost yes. But I also noticed the Lunasix 3 model, which I would exclude because product pre 1976 (even after, but how do you know?), but of Lunasix 3 there is a newer version, Lunasix 3S (it is recognized because have the exposure compensation, similar of Lunasix F), which is perhaps produced after 1976 ? It's possible? I think yes, if the 3S version dial extra piece comes from the Lunasix F, which is produced after 1981... http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Gossen_Lunasix

I bought a lithium grease, it seems to work well. Although in my tripod model I can not get to the fundamental points, the head is not easily removable.

My Davis & Sanford MAGNUMXG13 tripod no longer flows very smoothly in the horizontal direction. It makes half a lap more tough, and half lap smoother and faster. How could I solve? I know that the original content of head for grease is not a simple oil, in fact with the years it is slightly ejected out and is sticky, not viscous as oil. Thank you.

It could be a deterrent, thanks.

Is it possible use a cable release for single frame feature on a Bolex H8 Rex4 with Rexofader? The Rexofader prevents operation because: adapter like third version of this image: I can't mount it upside down because there is the lower part of Rexofader. The second version, that I also have, not fit well, for the same reason. At the bottom of the Rexofader there is a small hole, where the release cable can screw, but the internal thread of my cable can't push the switch to the end. Perhaps my version, original Bolex, has the thread too short, but I think if it were longer it could break. What do you think? Thank you.

For the use that I have to do, essentially with reflected light and small format films, I can also move for the Sekonic L-398 models before L-398A? For example, first Deluxe Studio or L-398M. They are more cheaper, and they should be post-change of 1976. I have obvious disadvantages compared to L-398A Deluxe Studio III?

Too bad that the Sekonic in the link doesn't have the accessory for the reflected light included, I ask about it. I wanted to take that, but if I have to buy the accessories apart the price rises and I buy it almost new. I'll move on something else.

We have the same Leningrad! :) Very nice design but, as mentioned, not very suitable for professional shooting! But the cell on mine still works, a little "tank"! Sorry for the translation, I'm always in trouble with English: I meant that I have good lightmeters, including a Gossen specific for Bolex reflex and already a Sekonic L-398A that pleases me a lot, I want a lightmeter "minor" (is it a right term?) that can also use my helper boy during the shooting in small format (8mm, Super 8, 9.5mm, 16mm ...) A less expensive lightmeter, which serves as a reserve. You gave me good advice, that old model of Spectra, if well calibrated, it's not bad. Too bad for the problem with the low light... Also another used but guaranteed Sekonic L-398A at that price is not bad. I usually work in reflected light.

Thank you Bruce, good advice, but for many reasons I don't have a smartpone, I use an old Nokia phone. Anyway, I knew about the apps-lightmeter: on a smartphone of average quality are good? I've never seen them in use. About classic lighmeter: I also have a model of Leningrad, which I bring together with my 9.5mm camera, but not really precise, I would like something a little better.

I already have a Sekonic L-398A (and specific Gossen for Bolex), I would need a secondary (backup) cheap lightmeter that would also use another person when I shot in small format. I was thinking of cheaper models of 398, so not A series, or Gossen or other brands. Even older models, provided the efficiency is confirmed. Thank you! :)

Ah, sorry Mark, I took for granted what I said in another thread: I use the zinc-air MRB625 battery, which replaces well the old PX13, it has the right voltage of 1.35v. My Gossen Bolex It has always worked well with zinc-air batteries, but now it seems to be not calibrated. The screw behind it's right to align the needle with the base notch (test without battery, as described in the manual), that works, but I can't do anything with this screw when lightmeter it is operating mode with the battery. Compared to another well-functioning lightmeter, it marks a stop and a half of error. Obviously, I made the comparison taking into account that the Gossen Bolex is already set for the light deviated in the viewfinder of H series (lightmeter adds about 20% of light of compensation).

Perhaps this post was better in this section: http://www.cinematography.com/index.php?showtopic=76987

Do you know who can calibrate a Gossen Bolex lightmeter? It's not very precise anymore. I also use another lightmeter with my H8 Rex 4, but the Gossen Bolex is very comfortable (and beauty) to hold in the slot of the camera, I would like to fix it. Thank you.

Frank, for the experimental use I would like to make of 35mm it would be good an auto build machine. One my compatriots have created a 35mm projector with an "Arduino" hardware (there is an international version of this hardware?), but I'm not a good builder, also for a cranked version. For cases like mine there is Lomokino, but as I said to those who recommended it to me, I don't really like the non-fluid effect. Maybe I found a good Konvas 35mm, but for the projector is more difficult. I saw something cranked version, not for sale, it would also be a nice piece of decor. :)

What do you think of one like that? Projector

Thank you, Hans. What container do you recommend for an operation like this?

Lyle, I still do not send my Fujica ZC1000 in assistance, but in the USA you can try from Bernie already indicated by Samuel in this thread.