JB Earl

just tungsten film shot in daylight with no correction, i would guess

unless you need the scene to be dramatic the white walls are fine.  You could just us a clip on reflector flood (from a hardware store) bounced off one of walls outside the frame.  I think the iphone does better with daylight balanced sources, so try a higher output LED daylight bulb in it (100w equivalent or more.

(You could also use an LED par30 or such instead of the reflector)

Hi Duncan, most of those questions i can't answer but I'll send more photos that you can post (i did hit the limit here)

i'd suggest looking at a rental house website for the contents of a grip package.  Just copy it and you'll have everything that's most useful and marketable.

as far as lights, the standard items will always work for you (that's why they are standards ? )    I understand wanting your own preferences instead, just know that there will be times you won't rent or get hired because of it 

Don't get the Road Flags, you want flags ready to go, not have to assemble them.

Lights should go on light stands, not C stands. 

you are getting a truck?

LOL  thanks for sharing that

...my question is whether there is a specific standardised system for setting something like this up?

you mentioned it already.  a 2K blonde into the frame will work, or a 600 LED COB.  Or as others have mentioned some large mats through difusion (even better becaause it will be more even)

Are there other limitations at play here?

a 600w COB instrument will give you about a 2K tungsen equivalent.  

when you say tweaking the bounces, is it because you're usng multiple smaller lights?  

maybe it fits right on a riser tube instead of a pin?...

the slider itself is pretty heavy to begin with.  I guess limiting the overhang with the 2' version would help.  I would consider removing the half ball and mounting flat to the tripod bowl

I use a Flyking 3' which i'm pretty happy with, but it really should be on mitchell base.  100mm might work with a light camera, but definitely not 75mm.

Yes I would definitely suggest OConnor. Maybe one of the small DV heads. 
 

that Sachtler should be pretty smooth. Was it the head or were the sticks wobbly?  What focal length were you testing?  If the camera rig is well under 10 pounds it should be ok on a 75 mm ball 

you can easily put one end of the 3 foot slider on sticks and the other end on a monopod. The slider frame just needs to be stiff enough to resist twisting at that end.   
 

it's mostly easy to adapt anything 75mm to 100mm bowl....

I have a Vinten 2 stage 100mm bowl tripod that is very small compact and light- i don't know what model number it is though.  as far as heads go maybe look at Libec - i have an old one that is compact and pretty smooth -true fluid.   

you can also use a monopod to support the other end of a slider.  what length are you looking at?

that Godox looks decent.  I ended up in the Intellytech system for mats, so two -2x2 mattes in a 2x4 frame has worked well, especially through 4x4 or 6x6.  (litemat 4L or kino 4'  form factor).  They won't compete with a sunlit window but it's more than enough otherwise.

I'm not a fan of eggcrates, but can you use them with the Godox setup?

One easy way is a stack of apple boxes strapped to the seat behind, with a high hat or whatever camera mount you need on top

Good Ed , that will solve the other problem!

oooh I just realized i can run Two 1200w lights on the 30/120v twistlock, and a third on the 120v edison circuit.   That solves one problem at least.     

thanks Guy, I appreciate the detail.  So Bates mod then eliminates the 20A breaker restrictions at 120v then...in an ideal world I'd love to run 3 1200w fixtures, but we're limitied to two 20a/120v circuits I think...

Was it shade cloth? That’s the kind of mesh that allows a percentage of light to travel straight through without diffusion and blocks the remainder

Thanks very much David. So it looks like the bates  plugs on small gennies is not just a modification, but a completely different generator

Thanks Daniel, i’m not so much worried about the physical connections, I’m trying to figure out why even on the 10,000 W generator I can’t get a single 50 amp 120 V circuit.  They seem to be limited to something like 41 A

Maybe looking for Guy Holt here, but I’m wondering how the 60amp bates conversion works on small generators.  I occasionally rent the Honda 6000 from building suppliers and there is no way to get that many amps from one circuit. It seems the hot legs are two 120 V circuits.  Are there any small gennies that can supply enough amps for a 5K Without the Bates mod?

you don't want anything aluminum to fly overheads.