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JB Earl

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Everything posted by JB Earl

  1. Cartoni focus 12 is 2800$ with sticks. 26lb load. Manfrotto 526 is the same price but head is good up to 33lbs. These are much better heads than the usual Manfrotto stuff, but will get no love from anyone ; )
  2. it looks like a net which is often used to keep the steadicam from being disrupted by wind
  3. If that fresnel is 4K it's an HMI. Tungsten fresnels would be 5K. You need a transformer or 6k generator for it. Or it can be rewired and relamped to 240v if used with a double pole switch.
  4. I'd highly suggest using mats like a litemat instead. You'll be able to get them much closer to the ceiling. Plus the lower weight makes it much easier to boom.
  5. that's a pretty good start. I'd suggest a 1k and 2k open face to fit in softboxes or for bounces (look at photoflex starlites for an easy system) . If you'd prefer LED the Amaran 200x is the most affordable decent choice. It puts out roughly what a 750w tungsten would. those fresnels are still useful. pavotubes are useful get a couple dimmers. the Ryobi light will have bad color unless it's used for effects, which may work for on the street or industrial setting. You probably need more grip gear than lights.
  6. The 600D has about as many useful footcandles as a 2k Blonde. Modifiers notwithstanding
  7. Jay, how many hours do you think to get obvious green on the big COB leds? Do you think it's from the heat, such that instruments like mats wouldn't experience it as much? I always have bad color mismatch on rented HMIs....
  8. here's a page with most of the line typically used on set https://www.filmandvideolighting.com/roandtrli.html
  9. following...I'm curious how long these will be viable with the new ARRI35
  10. Avoid the iron glass, . The Xeens are adequate, not exactly matched but OK. On vistavision they are missing the 100 mm which is fairly important. The vespids have the 100 mm which is good, but I have no firsthand knowledge of them
  11. fluorescent (Kino and such) are still an easy way to match an environment that HAS fluorescent...think grocery store or hospital. jst use the same tubes. Of course many such environments are now being upgraded -or downgraded : ) - to led. it seems that even middle of the road (Aputure etc) Led color is better than fluorescent now, in a general sense. This is aside from the aging problem
  12. Dan, I get foam from a local furniture/mattress supplier. They cut it on a giant band saw to size. also very inexpensive
  13. baby plate or wall plate I guess there might also be some bit of architecture there that a cardellini or furni clamp could be on also
  14. oops i see now...yes hard to see much there. the one on the picture right seems to be on a gobo arm sticking out from behind the curtain. maybe mounted on a pigeon or something like that?
  15. oh yes, LED Mats. (like litemats...) They're definitely easier to diffuse than a hard light, but I still find they need at least 1 layer of some diffusion
  16. Looking for suggestions on a case or wallet that has good protection for FOUR 4x5.65 filters....
  17. yes ripstop can come in at least 4 flavors...calendared, uncalendared, dwr, waterproof, and i don't know which is the right match for regular rags. what are led textiles?
  18. it's called ripstop nylon also in other industries
  19. I'm having similar problems, looking for a larger tie down for a Ronford tripod. O'connor emailed me that their 100mm tie down is OD is 63.5mm. It has an M10 thread x 1.5p I think manfrotto is 3/8-16
  20. the tie downs on all my 100mm balls are too small for my Ronford 100mm tripod bowl. Any idea where to get a bigger one? needs to be bigger than 2-1/4"
  21. Any LED or other Continuous light will let you see what you are creating, you don't need a fresnel for that. Are you okay with long shutter speeds? You won't get nearly the power you are used to with strobes out of most LEDs
  22. I have a "vintage" Oconnor 30 head (similar to the 50 but with variable counterbalance). It's a great head, except for the pan handle which is a royal pain... I'm thinking of cutting the handle and welding an Arri rosette to the end of the part that goes into the head. Then using a matching rosette to fit the handle. Any thoughts on whether I'll have any problems with this?
  23. what Satsuki said. and not just for flicker reasons...
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