David Elliott

Usually when someone is framed against a brighter sky, you underexpose the faces a little bit to hold a bit more detail in the sky, sort of splitting the difference, but by how much depends on the mood and look you want, sometimes a near silhouette is nice, sometimes it's not the right mood. But as a starting point, I'd probably do an incident meter reading of the faces and then underexpose by one stop from that reading, unless the faces have really dark skin tones.

Thanks also makes great sense

Great advise, I guess I want a more cinematic look, Unfortunately I cant afford HMI lights let alone the power source to run them,

But listening to the advise gives me confidence, I think I will go for a more natural look and try and use the sun as a backlight as Mark suggested. It should set the tone of the scene better.

Many thanks for all your help,

I keep over thinking the technical and loose sight of what I'm trying to achieve visually

Thank you sirs

helpful forum so far, I appreciate it

No the idea is to dolly into the two having a conversation, eye level shot

This will mean the sky will be in frame as there is no trees directly behind. From there I can use OTS shots

Its just very hard when I scout for a location and have to think very hard about light, Which is great because I love the challenge

Okay I have basic skills with a light meter,
I can operate a film cameras and Dslrs and so on.

My questions is this.

Say Im sat in a park doing a shot of two people sat on a bench, The weather is sunny with clouds and in the golden hour so not directly above, They are sat in partial shade and I will be using a reflector to bounce some soft fill.
Do I take an incident reading from my actors faces and use that reading for my F stop
Would this effect the exposure of the sky.

As much as I have searched I have not found a decent tutorial anywhere that doesn't include Lighting, Seeing as I have access to reflectors only these don't really answer my questions.

I ask mainly as I don't want to waste a ton of film before I get half a grip of what light Im putting in the camera.

Sorry if there is a thread on this already. Im probably over confusing my brain.

many thanks in advance

Thanks I will give them a try and post the results when it's back

Thanks

Hi

I have been trying to research the best places to get my film 16mm stock developed (UK) and then transferred into digital format.
I found a company called idailies

Has anyone had any dealings with them?

Would love to know if people have used them and what costs where involved

Anyone have any footage I can see that they processed would be a treat too

many thanks

David

Thanks for the help, I will check those out,

Just happy to be shooting film again

Thanks for the help, I will check those out,

Just happy to be shooting film again

Hi everyone

Sorry if this is in the wrong section but I'm real new to forums.

I have a krasnogorsk k3 and I understand the onboard light meter is not to be trusted.

I have looked at many light meters but they all seam far to advanced for my needs

I know at 24 frames per second the shutter speed is 1/60th

So I only really need to know the f stop right ?

So my question is is there a light meter you can recommend that

Perhaps any of you use ?

Many thanks in advance,

Cheers Dave from the uk

(It always rains here)