John1

Do you know of any that is capable of displaying such guide that u think you can recommend

Looking to buy a fast prime lens f1.4 or f1.8 but I have both Canon 60D and Panasonic GH2. I know I will need a lens adapter to be able to use as APS-C lens on a Micro 4/3 camera like GH2. Any suggestion of a fast not too expensive prime lens I can get that will work with both camera

Thanks, I appreciate

I am finding it somehow hard to navigate my way through this site and I have been on the site for close to a year now. I have been looking for where to change the name for a while now, I didn't find it. Sometimes I make a post once, it appears twice like this post and I have even been lookin for a way to delete the post, I cant find where.

David, I would. Mike, the room above has no window and d ligthing was achieved well

Thanks mike, very great and incisive advise

I love the look above as opposed to this look here. Everything just look bright and flat. Doesn't look creative or interesting to me. Every thing just looks flat and boring

I saw this on a feature film and I sort of like it. It looks close to real. The room is dark as it will be in real life but then we can see our actors on the screen without illuminating all the room. How do i acheive this look. How many lights, where and how do i place it/them. I just really love the look.

I saw this on a feature film and I sort of like it. It looks close to real. The room is dark as it will be in real life but then we can see our actors on the screen without illuminating all the room. How do i acheive this look. How many lights, where and how do i place it/them. I just really love the look.

One more thing please.... Which would be better, yellow light or white fluoresecent light. I av once worked with fluorescent light but even after setting my camera's white balance, there is this somwhat gree hue that comes up. But when I use yellow light, the color balance is always nice. Evrything looks very good

Thanks David... I have known you for a long time as a man generous with his knowledge. Nice to have an ASC member share his knowledge

Thanks for the response on the "blowing up a scoket" aspect. I will get to learn more on it aswell. So any suggestions on suffecient lightinh equipments I can get for less than $400 atleast for now that will get my scene lit well without the big $2000 arri lights

I am about to start shooting lots of short films to learn more about the craft of cinematography. I'v spent too much time reading books upon books, watching instructional videos upon instructional videos but then I realised unless I start shooting I might just end up as someone with just head knowledge and no practical knowledge. So I want to invest in light, but then, I am on a very tight budget. I am still a student who has little or no money. Been able to save up and budget $400. But then, all the professional lighting kits I see online run to thousands of dollars. Apart from their cost been very scary, I am also scared of buying too powerful lights that might blow up a socket as well as too hectic to set up. Been told I could actually light my scene very well even with little light. Any advice on what to get. I don;t have more than $400 and I dont want to buy too big and space consuming lightinging equipments.

After using my kit lens 14-35mm lens F3.5 on my camera (Panasonic GH2) for a while now, i really want to step up my game a little bit. Been saving money for a while now and I think I need some more shallow depth of field in my shots. I know micro four thirds cant get as much shallow depth of field as full frame dslr camera, but since since this is the camera I was able to afford, i want to step up my game. I have heard alot about the Olympus M.Zuiko 25mm f1.8 how fast and sharp the lens is and I have saved up to buy the lens. Really need good shallow depth of field in my shots. Will i regret putting such amount of money on that lens considering I am still a student. Are there serious "cons" I need to consider about the lens before buying it. Whats your advice for me as regards the lens if you know about it. Should I go for it or there are better options I can go for.(But consider my budget). I have checked for reviews online about the lens and they all seem satisfying but I hear it does not have a focussing ring. Is that true. What do you know about the lens

Am sorry if this is the wrong place to post this

After using my kit lens 14-35mm lens F3.5 on my camera (Panasonic GH2) for a while now, i really want to step up my game a little bit. Been saving money for a while now and I think I need some more shallow depth of field in my shots. I know micro four thirds cant get as much shallow depth of field as full frame dslr camera, but since since this is the camera I was able to afford, i want to step up my game. I have heard alot about the Olympus M.Zuiko 25mm f1.8 how fast and sharp the lens is and I have saved up to buy the lens. Really need good shallow depth of field in my shots. Will i regret putting such amount of money on that lens considering I am still a student. Are there serious "cons" I need to consider about the lens before buying it. Whats your advice for me as regards the lens if you know about it. Should I go for it or there are better options I can go for.(But consider my budget). I have checked for reviews online about the lens and they all seem satisfying but I hear it does not have a focussing ring. Is that true. What do you know about the lens

So whats the solution

There is this problem I have with white balance each time I am using white light..... I set my white balance to between 5000 and 5300. Most time 5200 as that is the known color temperature of white light but when I get to the editin room and transfer the video to my system, I end up getting this blueish image. Green appear as blue, blue appear as green signigying there is a problem with my white balancing. But each time I use orange light(red head), I dnt usually av this problem at all. I set my white balance to 3200K for orange light as that is the known color temperature of orange light and my image is always ok. But when I try to save power and use fluorescent light or any white light, I white balnce at between 5000K to 5300K, most times, 5200 but my image end up greenish or blueish. What am I doing wrongly...

I think it is called "Film Noir" not really sure.

Being practicing lighting for a while and its been somehow very complicated for me perhaps because I don't have the right tools or perhaps because I am somehow scared to experiment. How do i setup lighting for this type of scene. I think i cant use a hard light for this(only the face and some part of the room is lit). Here are two videos I will like to imitate their looks. One is shot with an iPhone, the other shot with a DSLR. The iphone shot seem ridiculous to me. A device with a tiny sensor yet with an appealing result

A lot of podcast and books I read keep emphasising how important story-boarding is but I really can't see anything important in it. Each time I want to make a short film, I just make a sequence of how my shot will go by jotting down some things, and I keep the other details all in my head and I seem to get it all right during shooting. But days I decide to storyboard, that's when I discover I end up shooting rubbish. Its beginnin to become a practice for me to just have it all planned in my head but many proffessionals keep stressing the importance of story-boarding. How really important is story boarding

Thanks

I see this effect in very many music videos and it makes them kinda look cool and professional. This light streaks usually, red, pink, purple used for transitioning between one cut to another. I know its not lens flare. Please check out this music video. You will see it. I want to know the name and how its done. That light streak is continuously used in transitioning

Nigeria is more than interesting. The problem is piracy. In the U.S there are solid laws that protects people's intellectual property, but here you end up shooting a quality film and someone somewhere picks up your work, pirate it and nothing is done about it. Thats the only problem here and thats why nobody wants to spend much money creating a quality film when you know it will end up in the hand of a thief who will pirate your work without any strong law or punishment to protect you job. Asides that, Nigeria is very lucrative for cinematographers. When i say "VERY" lucrative, i mean "VERY" lucrative

Adrian, my system is 64bit. Is it okay if i donwnload the 32bit, or i should go for the 64bit. Then which of the three files am i to download, "static", "shared" or "bit-dev"