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Jim Moore

Basic Member
  • Posts

    22
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Profile Information

  • Occupation
    Other
  • Location
    Metuchen, NJ
  • My Gear
    Arri IIC-BV, B&H Filmo 70DR, B&H 240
  1. Dom: the part that gave me the problem was a little gold colored disk that has a small arm that ran against a groove on the edge of the this disk. for some reason it was so dry that it was binding. I ran the camera a few times with some fogged stock and it seems like the grease is doing it's job. Maybe next time when I lube it I will remove the grease and use oil to see if that makes a difference. By the way, does anyone know the shutter angle of the 70DR? Thanks
  2. Ok, so I got bored and my curiosity got the best of me so I ended up pulling the camera apart. I pulled the turret off and noticed that while spinning the gear that rotates the shutter there was an ugly metallic sound and some binding. The motion wasn't smooth so I know this was wrong. I used canned air to blow out any debris and then applied a light coating of grease. After moving the shutter by hand it felt like glass, VERY smooth and no more binding. Plus the metallic grinding sound was gone. I reassembled the camera and wound it and crossed my fingers. SUCCESS! The camera is dead quiet, smooth and operates at a steady speed without an fluctuations! I used white lithium grease to lube the area a very light coating. Is this ok or should I clean it out and use something else, if so what should I use? Jim
  3. Last week I was given a B&H 70DR with a bunch of lenses. I started out be cleaning the lenses and camera body and started to do some testing. The first issue is that the speed at 24fps is not stead, I can hear it fluctuate and it ramps down to 0fps close to the end of a wind, I'd say about 5 seconds before. The other issue, a major one is that although the camera runs, it won't run when I wind it too many times, it will run when nudged with the hand crank, but only for a few frames here and there, sometimes not at all, other times it will run for 2-3 seconds and stop again, until it is helped by the crank. If I wind it a few times it runs fine, wind it too many there is a 5% chance it will run. When it does run and runs down I need to nudge the shutter closed before it will run again, it doesn't "reset" when I wind it as it should. However it did once, but that was it. I oiled it at all 5 points and ran it via the hand crank the distribute the oil but that doesn't seem to do any good. Can anyone point me in the right direction, and input, ideas or a repair manual? I'm not about to go pulling it apart especially the mainspring housing. Thanks! Jim
  4. I think I've used my 85 twice. But I keep it because I know in some situations I will need it. The ProMists are nice, but I'm still confused on which one to get since I can only justify one and there are a lot to choose from. I've never seen the net before, I looked it up and it seems interesting. I guess this is the modern version of pantyhose stretched over the front element? ;)
  5. I've been getting by with a whopping 3 filters, an 85, ND4 and an ND8. I shoot mostly 35mm and I was wondering if there are any other filters I should consider, possibly a contrast or a pro mist filter? maybe something entirely different? I can't say I would need a warming filter as I can do that in editing, or is the effect that much different that I should consider a warming filer of some sorts? JIm
  6. I'm trying to fill some gaps in my Arri Accessories and if anyone can help locate them or has any laying around, not being used please let me know. The first is an old leather magazine bag used to hold two 200' IIa/b/c magazines. The second is a over-the-shoulder battery The third is a backpack type battery The batteries can be used, dead, abused and/or non-funtional, the plan is to use the case to hold my new battery pack which is in an ugly black nylon bag. I think something more 60's vintage suits my IIc better. I do a lot of run and gun solo shooting and the magazine pouch is a must have, right now I stuff them in a camera bag and it basically sucks. Thanks! Jim
  7. It probably takes one of the old Series XX filters. Can you post of photo of the lens? If I had a photo I could look it up in some of the old Kodak manuals I have here. Jim
  8. My 35mm and 16mm sits on a shelf in my basement at room temperature, I've shot film that I received as short ends, put them on the shelf and shot them 2 years later and they looked fine. I've also shot 120 and 35mm still film from as far back as 1940 and it was a 50% chance I would get something nice. But any still film I've shot that was made after 1960 developed fine. I'm sure motion picture film is the same way.
  9. Nope I'm not in the UK otherwise I'd consider it. I managed to find a short end of double perf 250D locally a few days ago and loaded it into the Keystone and shot a few things in the park by my house. I'll toss that into my lab order in a few weeks. Interesting camera, I doubt I'd use it for any serious work. It's a fun camera to shoot so I might use it for home movies and fun projects. My company has a machine shop in the maintenance area so I'm going to ask one of the machinists down there mill off one side of sprockets so I can use modern stock.
  10. Thanks for all the replies and info! I was at an antique store today and while my girlfriend was out searching for her things I roamed around and found a 16mm Keystone A-7 for $15 and a Canon Super8 for $20. The Keystone looks promising. I need to sit down and do more research, but seems like it could be a fun camera, even with it's limitations. I've been eyeballing the B&H Filmo line and that seems like it would work great for me. Again, like the Keystone I need to sit down and do more research.
  11. I'm looking for an inexpensive (sub $200 USD) 16mm camera to supplement my 35mm Arri. It will basically be used as a backup and for smaller projects. I will most likely also use this for home movies so being compact is a big plus. I've been looking at a Canon Scoopic 16 and I've heard good things about it, the 2-1/2 minute runtime is not an issue for the work I'll be doing. Can anyone here give me some other input or ideas on systems? A fixed lens and internal battery is ideal, although a crank system would be fine also. I do not need a internal meter. Thanks Jim
  12. Guess I'm the only one who shoots in the cold.
  13. In a few weeks I'm going to be shooting a docu outdoors in below freezing temperatures with my IIC and also most likely my Askania Z. Can anyone share any advice or tips? This is my first below freezing shoot that is not digital so I'm not sure how the camera, film and lube will behave in those temps. I have a heated battery box so I'm not too concerned about battery life.
  14. UPDATE: I spoke to Mole earlier and the unit I have based on it's serial Nr. is old, very, very old. They were once rated at 2K, but since the early 70's they lowered it to 1500W. I asked why they changed the rating, but they didn't know. Maybe someone with a 1960's or 70's Mole catalog could know more.
  15. I have a Mole 3401 broad I use quite often and on the data plate it's rated at 2K with an FFW lamp. The Mole site and some retailers only has them rated at 1500W, did they change the rating? If so why?
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