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Matt Irwin

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Everything posted by Matt Irwin

  1. Thanks David, yeah I'll try to work out a test somehow. I don't know if iPads are OLED.... I think the "retina" feature is purely resolution and glass.
  2. HI all, I'm just curious if anyone has shot an iPad on film and has encountered frequency sync issues. Any flicker / roll / etc? Do I need a video sync box? (can I even use one with an iPad....) The project I'm prepping is 2perf 35mm on Panaflex GII or Platinum and there is talk of iPad screens being built into some key set pieces.... I'd test if I had time and budget to, but..... Thanks in advance. Matt
  3. Thanks James, this helps a lot. I actually discovered the AC article on Killing Them Softly... very interesting. I'll have to check out Snow White.
  4. There doesn't seem to be much experience-based info floating around about 5230 500T... I'm just curious if anyone here has shot this this stock and can comment on it's look, grain, and the result that push/pull has on contrast, color, and grain. Anyone done full or partial skip bleach with it? Any other notables? I'm beginning to evaluate stocks for a project, and I'm wondering if I can get significantly different looks by mixing '30 with 5219 and playing with processing, since I'd need an ASA 500 stock for the entire project. Also, 5230 doesn't seem to bear the Vision label... is this a DI-minded stock or something else? Cheers,
  5. Hi, I was just curious if anyone has run into tungsten balanced LED sources that actually mix seamlessly with normal tungsten and 3200 kino tubes. I've run into a variety of options- Litepanels, lowel, most recently LiteRibbon- and while LiteRibbon looked really nice with some 1/4 MG, they all look like garbage when compared to honest tungsten. LED tech improves 200% every 18 months, so just curious if there are any latest/greatest tools out there. I understand that the B&M's MacTech tubes are near perfect, and those new Mole sources are the same... but I'm looking for something very compact, hideable, and battery powered. Cheers,
  6. Probably window light of some form like mentioned above, but if you're curious about your attached image only... It could be as simple as a kino flo through 4x4 diffusion (opal, 250) directly to camera right of the actor maybe 6' or more and slightly upstage from camera.
  7. Another vote here for makeup being absolutely, positively critical. Jon's suggestion of a soft source over the lens is a good one. 4X4 diffusion is also a good idea on top of that. If you want to accentuate the cheek bones and/or elongate the face, bring in 4x4 black / negative fill directly to the sides of the talent, as close as possible (if in a wider, use 6x or 8x). If you want to reduce the shadow under the chin and/or bring out more color in the eyes, try a 4x8 or 4x4 bead board flat under their chest (as if they are right up against a table) and play with distance to taste.
  8. Depending on desired effect and area of coverage, I've used and seen used a few methods... -Bat strips or bat boxes with chicken wire bent around the top in a square shape, with diffusion of choice on top of the chicken wire. Wire for 3 different lines- one constant, two on dimmers. Alternate the bulb sizes within the channels, and place various degrees of cto, cts, red, or party oranges over different parts of the light. The effect is a very real simulation of firelight with wide color and intensity changes. Have the dimmer op randomize the flicker and do an occasional "bump" to create a hotter flare up. This works really well as a campfire souce, and 3-4 more would sell a big fire on a face. Also consider waving a small cutter in front of the light at random. -For really big coverage, 1-2 mini brutes with the switches gutted and each lamp wired into three dimmer channels. Shoot through 4x or larger diff or bounce. Have the grips make a few frames with 2" vertical strips of varying degrees of cto, cts, red, diffusion, and blackwrap- then have them wag the frames side to side in front of the lights but behind the diffusion. If in a close up, use it in front of the diffusion. -Literally a pile-o-china balls. Smaller than 24", each one on different dimmer line. It's a really ugly rig but it can work in a pinch and looks pretty good. Whatever the method, make sure you have a constant-on source in addition to the flicker. It can be really low level to accentuate the dips in light, or higher for a rolling flame, but it really helps the effect. I've also seen some really crazy dimmer rigs that use mercury switches, but that's a whole other topic...
  9. Done this as well and works perfectly. It's easier if the water is shallow like that and the lip is low (unlike an aquarium) because the effect is easier to spread out and the gear is easier to deal with.
  10. Be careful when running the 056WP directly from AB/V bricks. I own that monitor too and upon speaking with a TV Logic engineer, I learned that the true voltage limit is 15v. Often freshly charged bricks can run as high as 18-20V, which is enough to fry the monitor. Often you'll be ok, but there is a risk. Best to use a power regulated cable if coming from D-Tap, or if the brick is also powering a camera, pull the plug on the monitor and let the camera power up, then plug the monitor back in. I had a cable made with an inline 12v regulator that has a Fisher 3 to D-Tap jumper, so it can do either safely.
  11. Hi, Lubezki is known for using very big soft sources. From the looks of your frame lift here, my guess is something like a 12x12 bounce, high and just to camera right of center. There is also a good chance that the shape of the light is thanks to a window on the set that they are lighting through, again with a big soft source. You could probably achieve a similar result with a smaller (in size) source closer to the actor, but the eyelight will be sharper. That soft effect in the eye is thanks to something physically big with a little more distance from the face.... maybe 15-20'.
  12. Hi, It's between 320 and 640 depending on the curve you choose. Been a while for me, but I remember Cine 2 working out to roughly 400 and Cine 4 roughly 640 -- this of course being at 0db, all other image settings at default. Matt
  13. $5000 obo Comes with Petrol / 16x9 bag.
  14. Located in Los Angeles, local in person transaction preferred but I will ship. Sony EX-1 Body - 617 system hours All original accessories / cables / charger / etc Westside AV "Olof" Plate (reinforced bottom plate with extra 3/8 & 1/4-20 taps) "EX-FLAT" additional cold shoe mount installed (stock mic mount also included) 2 - 8GB SxS Cards 1 - Small Sony EX battery 1 - Large Sony EX battery 3 - Swit SU80 EX batteries w/ D-Tap power port for 12v accessories Dolgin TC-200 2-position battery charger Schneider IR CUT 486 Filter 77mm Asking $6000 Contact matt (at) irwincine (dot) com
  15. I'm looking to sell my TV Logic LVM-071W onboard w/ waveform & vector. It's an swiss army knife of a monitor and it's been very well cared for. Owned for a little less than a year. Accepts a 2k signal thru SDI and every resolution and framerate on down, will also accept HDMI thru a HDMI-DVI adapter. Markers, focus assist, 1:1, lots of other features. Includes all original packaging, extra threaded receiver on the top, and an AntonBauer XLR4-PTap cable. Bench calibrated 3 months ago by the TV Logic engineer at Preco. $2000, local Los Angeles transaction preferred, but I'll consider shipping with paypal payment. matt (at) irwincine (dot) com
  16. Hi all, I'm trying to locate an available set of PL-mount Cooke Speed Panchros in Los Angeles- prefereably a rehoused version like century or van dieman. I've tried Clairmont, Otto, The Camera House, and Panavision - who I know have sets- and they are all unavailable for December. Other houses I've called don't carry them. Does anyone here have a recommendation? Perhaps a private owner if not a rental house? Thanks in advance for any help,
  17. Hey Rashad, Having shot 35mm in snow before (though not at altitude like you will be in Nepal), I can tell you that "low contrast" will be the magic word in your stock and lens selection. Master Primes are incredibly sharp though the S4's are smoother in contrast. With the light levels at altitude in the snow, I don't think you'll be missing that extra stop either. Check out the Vision 3 200T and/or 250D stocks for your day exteriors and 500T '19 for evening / low light. I don't have experience with the 200 and 250 stocks, but if their latitude is equal to '19 they would be a great choice. My project in the snow was on Vivid 160 and Ultra Primes. The lenses were great, though the narrower latitude of the 160 got me in trouble a few times and I was wishing I had something lower-con. Best,
  18. Hi all, Can anyone recommend a good lens repair tech in Los Angeles that will work on old still lenses? I know Duclos and some guys at the local rental houses, but none will touch stills glass for general CLA and mechanical work. A friend recommended Steve's Camera Repair in Culver City, but they seem to be specific to cameras, not optics. Any suggestions appreciated!
  19. I have a job on 2/3" coming up and I'm looking to try something new... so I was wondering if anyone has experience with the Cooke 8-46 HD zoom? Not that I have any doubts given Cooke's track record... Is the minimum focus close enough? Any CA wide open? The job involves food and I do need to get in fairly close on a 32-ish size for some shots. Any thoughts much appreciated. BTW, this lens seems to be almost non-existent in Los Angeles... any reason for that other than popularity? Thanks,
  20. Cool pouch! The grey interior and the light strip are great features. If you're going to add a loop to attach a hard tape, please for the love of god put it on something rigid, not on the outside of a side pocket. It would also be great if it was a metal clip like those found on many tool bags. The lack of both of those things eventually leads to the tape measure flying off the pouch when you jump onto the tailgate.... and no amount of excellent tailoring will change that. Many AC's use closed-top tape pouches for that very reason... Also be careful about letting this pouch get too large. I know some guys like to have the entire set bag on one side of their hip, but the other half like to distribute the tools around their hips so the belt doesn't pull their pants down. And may I also suggest covering the top of the pouch lid with soft side velcro for quick storage of filter tags, grease tips, etc, etc, etc.
  21. Hey Sats- I'm on a feature right now with that exact camera/lens combo, and two of our lenses have been de-pinned as well. We initially had a FIZ II with standard PCS motors and it couldn't deal with the 720+ deg. rotation. That problem along with another issue with the MDR required a swap-- we got handed a C-Motion from the rental house..... which is a terrible pile of junk and didn't work with the macro 2.1's either. After 5 days we found the solution: beg and plead to get a Preston III and never look back. The digital focus mapping is the only way to get those "macro" lenses to work on a wireless because you can limit the the range to MARKED minimum instead of HARD minimum. Once you have a lens file made, you barely have to think about it during a lens change. If you need the macro range, switch to a normal follow focus, or create a separate lens map that includes it (haven't done that but it seems that the III can handle it). I guess a Bartech would work too, but their motors don't have enough torque to deal with the one stiff-as-poop lens in every set of Zeiss T2.1s. Regarding the power issue-- There was probably not enough juice to go around in that setup. The Camwave's hunger runs deep. ("So deep, so deep") I've found P-Tap to be much more reliable with most Reds because their aux ports don't always send clean power to the FIZ. They will read out fine with a volt meter, but you will see the status lights on the FIZ flicker and will then have all sorts of weird problems with calibration and motor fluttering. I realize your post is months old, but I hope this is helpful. Cheers,
  22. Hi all, I'm looking for some technical information on Cinema Paradiso, and there doesn't seem to be much out there on the interwebs. The ASC archives go back to 1998, "out-of-print" is a broken link, so no idea if it was in a 1988/89 issue.... Anyone know what stock(s), lenses, special processes? All I can find is 35mm, 1.66:1.... Thanks in advance,
  23. I'm considering having a custom diffusion cover made for a Lowel Rifa light since the original is totally thrashed, and I hated the diffusion quality anyway... My favorite heavy diffusion is Rosco Silent Frost because of its high transmission and beautiful glow, though I'm concerned about the heat resistance in this sort of application (esp. with a 1k lamp in the box). Any opinions on this? I understand that Rolux is their heat-resistant heavy diffuser, though I don't think I've used it before. How does it stack up against silent frost in terms of light quality? I haven't found a cloth diffuser that I like enough to pay for a custom cover, but if there are any suggestions in comparison to silent frost, I'm all ears. Any opinions much appreciated. Thanks,
  24. Sekonic ProDigi C-500 color temperature meter Sekonic product page Like new condition, used a couple of times. Fully functional, cosmetically a 10/10. Comes with original packaging and documentation, stock Sekonic pouch has never been used (I used a different one). I'm selling because it's a backup and I don't use it enough to justify keeping it. Asking $850. In person/cash (LA area) would be great, but I'll ship inside the US with paypal (buyer pays shipping + paypal fees). matt (at) irwincine (dot) com Cheers,
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