Vincent Donovan

To complicate things further:

 

This gentleman in Deutschland uses Tentenal Dokumol as his developer for B/W reversal films (the video is in German with English subtitles)

 

 

Anyone have any opinions about using Dokumol? Also--he uses what appears to be a run of the mill developer--Adofix--which may even be similar to D76.

 

Sehr interessant....

Owen, I've processed about 20 rolls of Tri-X by following this guy's process to the letter. I even went out and bought some 1.5 liter bottles (not easy to find) just like he has. I've been very happy with the results.

Recently I started using Ilford PQ Universal (in a 1:5 ratio) as first and second developer instead of Tetenal. It's cheaper and easier to get and it works great. (Dektol works too, I just hate mixing it).

I've recently started shooting double 8, so I develop Fomapan 100 using exactly this same process, and again I am very happy with the results. I've probably developed another 20 rolls of Fomapan this way.

I would say if you want a sure win to get started, use this German guy's process. Use either Tetenal or PQ Universal as developer and you'll get good results. I purchased the other chemicals for the bleach and clearing bath from Photgrapher's Formulary.

Hi friends, I just wanted to put this here for the record, for anyone looking to reversal process Fomapan R100. I'm very happy with the results I'm getting, full ISO with good shadow detail, and nice crisp highlights.

I basically follow this guy's process to the letter: (make sure you've got subtitles switched on)

I even went out and found those 1.5 liter bottles that he uses (not cheap).

My one alteration is to use Ilford's PQ Universal developer instead of Dokumol. It is more readily available here in the US, and relatively inexpensive. I also already use it for other photographic processes, so it just means one less thing I have to buy an keep on hand.

Note that using distilled water really helps make these solutions last a long time.

My solutions are:

Developer 1: 200ml PQ Universal + 1300ml distilled water

Bleach: 1200ml distilled water + 70ml 50% Sulfuric Acid + 15g potassium dichromate + water to make 1500ml

Clearing Bath: 140g Sodium Sulphite + distilled water to make 1500ml

Developer 2: 200ml PQ Universal + 1300ml distilled water

Fixer: Ilford Rapid Fix

My timings are (all at 68 degrees F)

Pre-wash 1 minute

Dev 1 8 minutes

Rinse 30 seconds

Bleach 5 minutes

Rinse 1 minute

Clearing 3 minutes

Rinse 30 seconds

Re-Exposure 1 minute

Dev 2 8 minutes

Rinse 1 minute

Fix 3 minutes

Wash 3 minutes

Hypo clear 1 minute

Final wash 3 minutes.

Hi friends, I'm reversal processing Tri-X Super8 film using Dokumol (paper developer) and Dichromate/sulphuric acid bleach. My first attempts were good, but I mixed up a new batch of chemistry and now it seems that there is no shadow detail. The highlight areas are good, but the shadows all fall to complete black.

I'm not sure what part of the process might be causing this. Maybe if the bleach is too strong, would that have this effect? I used a different source for the sulphuric acid, perhaps of a different concentration than previously.