Bernhard Kipperer

Hi all! The spring winder piece on my recently bought Krasnogorsk-3 just came off the body, see the attached image that shows it. Any idea how I could get that back onto it, I can't believe that would be my second body already to break within a few weeks after purchasing (on the first one the spring itself broke inside). Bernhard

Really? That's odd. By the way, I got my camera to work fine now, even with the leader film (did not have time to try the junk negative yet). I'm not 100% sure WHY but I ran the leader many times and it works fine now at all frame rates. Here is a list of what I carefully check each time, I share it with you guys in case someone else faces my issues as well: Take a B-Wind film leader (film hanging down, the perfs are on the right side), emulsion in Do not remove the pressure plate but only tilt it when inserting the film Or instead, when removing it, make sure all the film is as flat as possible around the gate Run shortly at 8fps then again shortly at 24fps then close the camera and run all the leader Bernhard

This is wonderful news! Fresh film for both still and motion picture cameras! I wonder however how this will affect Ferrania? Bernhard

Hi all! I just bought a cheap old 16mm 30m/100ft Kodachrome 25 (expired in 1988) to practice film loading with my new Krasnogorsk-3. But since this film came still in its original packaging, I thought of actually shooting some short clips with parts of it as well to further test the K-3 before buying fresh film. I don't have any Lomo tanks for 50/100ft developing at hand but thought of using Paterson photo reels for the clip tests. What about the following experiment: 1.) In the darkroom cut off a 5ft piece of the 16mm film and load on a 16mm movie daylight spool 2.) Shoot these 8 seconds at 24fps with the K-3 3.) Unload in the darkroom and tape the 5ft 16mm film to some junk 35mm 5ft film, emulsion facing out 4.) Load that bi-packed film as usual onto a Paterson 35mm reel for photo developing 5.) Do remjet removal then develop as a black and white negative film What do you think? Any chance this could work at all? I see a problem with the film's speed, let's assume it lost 1 stop per decade, so it's at ISO 3 now (25 to 12 to 6 to 3). The camera uses 1/60s at 24fps and the lens starts at f1.9, so I played around with the "sunny 16" rule, correct me if I'm wrong; With ISO 3, on a sunny day, I shall use f16 and 1/3s. f16 down to f1.9 is a bit more than 6 stops, so on a bright day at f1.9, I overexpose by 6 stops at 1/3s. So my shutter speed could go faster, 1/3s to 1/6s, 1/12s, 1/24s, 1/48s, 1/96s to finally 1/192s. So wouldn't that mean I can use 1/60s at 24fps with that ISO 3 and have enough light still? Otherwise I could still try to use 8fps, which uses 1/20s to let in more light. Bernhard

Would you also ship to Austria? Bernhard

Thanks for your tips, Will. "are the leader perfs on the correct side?" Looks to me like they should be on the bottom, only then the film is transported at all. At first I also thought that the leader could have a wrong curl that would bend too much against gate and pressure plate. But it seems that this is not really the case either. "you are forming the loops and manually making sure the film is going through the sprockets right?" I follow descriptions you find online, like the video for K-3s without loop formers at http://www.k3camera.com/k3/krasnogorsk-3-loading-videos.php The strange thing is that this sometimes works fine for a while until the film gets stuck after running through the camera for many seconds, other times it fails right away and the film won't even move at all when I press the trigger after loading. Once I remove the pressure plate it starts to run. I bought some old negative online two days ago but am on vacation now. I will try it again with that one next week, hoping that will fix the issues. Bernhard

Ok, thanks a lot Tyler, that's reassuring. I will get some junk negative and try with that instead. Bernhard

Hi all! I recently got a new Krasnogorsk-3 and want to test it before I invest in actual film to shoot with it, but I'm facing a strange issue: In order to practice loading it, I bought some white leader film based on Acetate (and was assured by the vendor it won't harm the camera in any way). Loading works perfectly fine at the start (I have a camera without loop formers, so do it manually), I form the upper loop, go past the gate and reinstall the pressure plate, then the problem starts. I can finish the bottom loop and all, but whenever the pressure plate is installed, no film will move, it gets completely stuck. As soon as I lift the pressure plate a bit, or remove it, the film advances fine onto the take up reel, but of course this is not useful to me. Could it be that this leader is somewhat thicker or less flexible than normal negative film would be? Should I just try to find some very cheap expired film on Ebay and continue with that one? I just need a few feet of fogged film to test. Or is this all a sign of the K-3 not working correctly? Bernhard

Hi! I would be very interested in this one! From what year is it? Are the loopformers still in or not? How much for shipping it to Austria? Bernhard

Hi! I have already checked with many different labs, you see the problem is that this film needs the old ECN, not ECN-2, which is not made anymore. Besides, I wanted to try to develop the film at home by myself, therefore the question about using B&W chemicals and trichromy, as these you can still get. Bernhard

Hi everybody! I've found a really nice and old Eastman Color 5254 in a 135 cartridge on Ebay, see the attached image. I asked Dale Labs (which is mentioned on the catridge) and was told the lab's boss confirmed the catridge actually was prepared by them, sometime in the 1970s it seems. Now I'd be curious if I could successfully shoot something with it in my SLR and develop it at home, but this seems to be ECN film (not ECN-2) and I won't be able to find any chemicals for this anymore. Could I use this with modern black and white chemistry? Then I could even shoot each subject 3 times, through red, green and blue filters and in the end put it together to a color image again or at least have some B&W images. What do you think? Could using modern black and white chemicals work? I assume this also has a remjet I need to get rid of at the start. I only have this one single catridge and would like to get the most out of it. Bernhard