Cecilia Danell

I'm using a mac and the photo looks yellow on my screen, but I know pc:s are sometimes colour calibrated differently. To answer your question, I wasn't projecting onto a screen but onto a white wall in my art studio. The wall is a pure white, so no yellow discolouration there. I'll let you know when I've investigated this further. Thanks! :)

Hi Martin, thanks for all those suggestions. I just checked the film against a window in daylight and it's definitely not the film, it's a cool grey and has no yellow tinge, so the developing seems to have been done well, thankfully. I will examine the projector and follow your suggestions of what to look for. I'm gonna be away for a few days so will get back to you as soon as I get a chance to do this. Thanks again!

Thanks for your suggestion, I'm gonna have a look and see if the lens might need cleaning. Good to know that halogen lamps don't normally go yellow, then I can rule that out.

Hi, I recently renovated a super 8 projector that I got off a friend that had a faulty lamp connector and needed the belts replaced. I just got a couple of reels of B/W Tri-x film back from the lab that I ran through it yesterday. Last year I was only shooting Vision 3 stock that I had digitally transferred, so this is my first time projecting new footage in about 7 years. The image looks good and the projector works well, but I noticed the lamp has quite an orange tint. I don't think this would be very noticeable had I been projecting colour film, but with it being black and white the projected image looks pretty yellow. Like, I said, it's been a long time since I last projected Tri-x but I doubt it's the film itself as I don't remember it looking this yellow the last time. The last time I rented a more high-end projector off a guy who sells super 8 equipment. My projector is a modest Sankyo P-1600. However, I read somewhere that projector bulbs can sometimes give off an orange tinge when they reach the end of their life span. This was referring to digital projectors, but could it be the same with a Super 8 projector bulb? Would it make a difference if I changed the bulb or is it just the type of projector that will have this kind of tinge due to it being less strong than some of the high-end projectors? Am I wasting my time by replacing the bulb or is it worth trying? What are your experiences with projecting b/w film och bulb colour temperature? I don't mind this for just looking through reels, but if I were to showcase footage to other people I'd prefer if it wasn't yellow tinged since the film itself isn't. I'm attaching a quick snap I took with my phone. Thanks!

Hi thanks for your advice Mark. I had a look at the projector again this evening and the cogs moved when rotating the fan by hand so they don't seem to jam at all. I then turned on the projector and it was working fine, as opposed to yesterday morning when the rollers stopped spinning. I let it run for a few minutes and it seemed fine. I therefore think it's a rubber belt issue, that it's gone slightly slack due to age which makes it unpredictable, working sometimes and not others. My first assumption was that the rubber band expanded when the projector had been running for a while due to heat expanding the material, but a bit of googling told be that rubber expands in cold, not heat (didn't know that!) so that can't be the issue, so still don't understand why it stopped spinning yesterday and now today when I turned it on it worked. However, this joy might be short lived as I don't feel as if I can trust it, if I play a film it might stop working halfway through. Therefore I just looked into buying new rubber belts online. I saw that Van Eck video services does them, so I just placed an order with them for a pair of belts for my particular projector model. Fingers crossed that will be the end of it and that I'll have a working projector from now on :)

Oh no... I spliced together the reel of film I'd tried yesterday, rewound it (using the projector rewind) and then played it in its entirety and it worked great. Once it was over I proceeded to rewind the reel (stopping the projector inbetween) but the roller wouldn't spin. Tried the forward setting and that worked for a moment before that stopped spinning too. Took off the hood and looked again, and now the motor and fan are running but the cogs wont spin... Is this the end for this projector or could it be that the cogs need greasing? I'm so disappointed as I was delighted to have it working only a few minutes ago :(

Wow thank you so much for that image, It helped me realise that yes, the belt was upside down and on the wrong roller! I rethreaded it and it now works!! I cannot thank you enough! :)

Here's another picture of the belt, which I don't know if I have thread the right way...

Hi, I was given a Sankyo P-1600 Super 8 projector off a friend. It had never been used when I got it and had been sitting in a garage for decades in its original packaging. When I first got it the lamp wouldn't light, and (as mentioned in another recent topic here) the resolution was to replace the ceramic lamp socket which had eroded, and now the lamp works. Therefore, I was finally going to test it with a reel of film tonight but am having some issues: The projector worked fine for threading the film and the supply reel was spinning as normal. However, once the film was on the take up reel this refused to spin automatically, resulting in me having to wind it by hand while the projector was running (in the hopes of running through the reel without having to cut it) but this only worked for a minute and then the entire film got stuck as the whole thing refused to spin and I ended up having to take off the hood, cut the film and force it out by lifting all the levers manually. There is definitely something not spinning right inside and I have a suspicion that this might have to do with the rubber belt driving the wheels inside not being threaded right, but I have not been able to find any reference image of how this should look. When I repaired the lamp socket I took of the rear hood on the projector and when doing so the rubber belt slipped slightly and I put it back the way I thought it had been. Then today after the film got stuck I thought that maybe this was done wrong as the rubber belt wasn't wound around the top left wheel before, so I put it there to try but the take up real still wouldn't spin. Then the projector started to make funny noises so I turned it off right away as I was afraid it might break in case something was jamming inside the machine. I've attached images of the inside of the projector. Do you think the rubber belt should be threaded this way? Or could it be a cog/part acting up? The machine has no dirt and is well greased due to never having been used. The rubber in the belt seems to be in good nick, seems pretty fresh and not brittle but with normal elasticity. I have a Eumig projector (in Sweden with my parents) and never had a reason to look inside it as it worked fine when I got it, that one is very easy to thread and this one also accepted the film fine until the take up real issue presented itself. I can't compare the two as I'm in Ireland. I'll be running a Super 8 class next month so it's vital that I have a working projector for that, so any help would be much appreciated!! Even if someone had a picture of a similar projector motor it would be extremely helpful as I could compare the rubber belts. Thanks!

Sorry, that should say Wittner Chrome 200D!

Thanks so much for the info, exactly what I needed to know! And thanks for your comment about the film, it was pricey enough, but fortunately it was made under an Arts Council project award, which covered film stock, HD scanning and restoration. Yes and no, I'm not gonna make a positive print from this film shot on negative as it was entirely edited in FinalCut, so the raw film reels are unedited, but I'm gonna be running a super 8 animation class during the autumn and we will be working with direct animation (drawing on the film strip) and stop-motion animation, and as the class is an introduction to super 8 equipment, including how to operate a camera, projector and viewer, I need a projector for that. Also, I thought it would be more exciting for the participants to see their work projected than to just get a digital file. And I can project some previous reversal work I've done to show as examples to the class. I have a Eumig projector, but that's with my parents in Sweden and I'm based in Ireland, so when my friend gave me this projector, especially since it was never used (the power chord was in unbroken plastic packaging and the projector was still wrapped) I'd love to get it working as it's got no dust/wear apart from the faulty bulb socket. Ok, so here's a follow on question you/someone else might know about: My materials budget for the class doesn't cover shooting on Vision 3 negative stock and also making a positive print to project, so I'm looking at using reversal film. Unfortunately Ektachrome 100D wont be back by the time I run this class so I'm looking at the only reversal stock I can find on the market, Wittner Chrome 100D I've been looking at some youtube samples and it looks average at best, very grainy and nothing like Ektachrome but I don't have much of a choice and as it's for a training class, not an art piece, I don't fancy spending loads on negative film and positive printing. However, it's an evening class in an arts centre, so we'll be shooting under fluorescent lights and Wittner is a daylight stock. I'm about to buy a blue 80A filter to put in front of the lens for indoor shooting, but then this brings down the film to 25 ASA, That's really low, will I get anything at all if we shoot under flourescent lights in a white room (it would be brighter than normal incandescent interior lights but still) or do I need extra lights? I'm assuming this will throw the internal light meter entirely, so I wont have a clue if I'm getting enough light unless I meter externally. Also, is the 80A filter to compensate for warm incandescent indoor lights only, and if so will the Kelvin on the fluorescent ones be so high that my film turns out with a blue tinge instead? Agh, I just wish there was a reversal Tungsten stock available! Any help or suggestions much appreciated! Thanks!

Hi, I know this is an old thread, but I would just like to let you know that the Vision 3 films I shot after discussing it in this thread came out successfully and became the film 'Tonight at the Magic Theatre' which has been part of my solo exhibition at Galway Arts Centre and The Dock Arts Centre, Ireland during spring/summer this year. Matthew was requesting to see some of the results, I have a video up on youtube with a 6 min extract from the film, the total duration is 12 minutes. It's a mix of 200T and 500T in the indoor shots, the outdoor shots are 200T apart from the grid sculpture rolling in the the field which is 50D. The films were digitally restored and minimal colour correction was used to make the shots look uniform. https://youtu.be/btxo9i7rljc

Hi, I have been given a Sankyo P-1600 Super 8 projector off a friend. The projector had never been used and was still in its original plastic wrapping when I received it, but due to having been stored in a garage for decades I think some dampness must have affected the ceramic bulb socket as the bulb wont light up, despite buying and trying out a replacement bulb. I was told that the ceramic bulb sockets sometimes erode over time, as they're copper inside, and I got hold of a replacement connector part by someone who works with Super 8 equipment. He told me to change out the old connector. I don't know much about electronics and am terrified of doing anything wrong and blowing up the bulb, projector or both, so here's to my question: I was in a DIY shop the other day and picked up a pack of strip connectors for connecting up the wires for the replacement bulb socket once I've cut off the existing one. However, I didn't realise they come in different amperage. I randomly picked up 5-10 amp connectors, will these do or do I need higher amperage ones? I can't seem to find out what amperage the projector is, it just says it takes a 12V/100W lamp and has a 240V power supply. Is the amperage likely to be higher than 10 amp and if so, what will happen if I connect the bulb socket using a strip connector that has an amperage that's too low, will the projector blow up? Any info on this would be much appreciated as I don't know much about electrics (as you can probably gather from my post) ;)

Thanks for all your input, I have now placed an order for 200T as well as 500T and will shoot with both. It's good to know about not paying heed to the triangle telling me there's insufficient light. This happened a few times when I shot 200T in the woods and I was worried about it being too underexposed and instead it came out slightly overexposed. For the 200T I think I'll be fine with just the built in meter, but I am planning on locking exposure on the built in meter once it's metered the scene, so that I don't get fluctuations in light when I introduce new objects onto the scene etc. I am doing a lot of stop-motion animation stuff with a shutter release chord and this should make the footage more consistent while still having the peace of mind that the built in meter provides. Will try the external meter for some of the 500T and see what the discrepancy is between that and the built in one, and then maybe just underexpose it with a stop or so compared with the built in meter since it will try to overexpose by default. I don't really want to get the scenes too overexposed since the theatre I'm shooting in has a lot of colour and painted detail in the scenography and I don't want that to become all washed out under the lights. But I will shoot enough footage with both stocks that I'll have something useable by the end of it either way. Thanks again!

Thanks for sharing your experience with the XL-401, Matthew. I had a look at some of your wedding footage and it looks great, both indoors and outdoors. If all those indoor shots are done using auto mode then that proves that the camera can handle 500T without significant overexposure, cause I assume you don't have time to meter manually when things are happening fast at the wedding receptions? :)

Thanks for your reply! Sounds like I might be just as well off using 200T then since the camera isn't going to be able to meter the 500T stock correctly and it might be too much of a risk to only rely on the external light meter since I can't do a test shoot. I am still curious to know if anyone has any experience with that would happen if I just stuck a 500T cartridge into my XL-401 and kept it on auto mode, would all the footage come out severely overexposed as the camera would think I was using 160ASA stock and meter for that? Anyone had any experience with 500T on auto? I might stick with 200T and make sure my set is bright enough instead...

Hi I'm new here! I am working on a Super 8 project and am using the Kodak Vision 3 negative stock. I previously shot super 8 using Ektachrome 100D and Tri-x reversal so I'm not new to super 8 but new to vision3. I shot some outdoor forest scenes in October using 200T and they came out pretty well, if not as vibrant as Ektachrome, but the camera kept overexposing certain shots with a lot of shadow. The next shooting location will be an indoor theatre that we will light artificially using LED builders' lights. I am unsure whether 200T will be light sensitive enough or if I should go for 500T for the indoor shoot? These are my questions in relation to this: * How will my Minolta XL-401 meter 500T stock? I read that this model only recognises film up to 160asa, how will it react to 500T, will it overexpose it by default? Is this why some of my 200T got overexposed? * Should I just stick with 200T that I know my camera can handle? * My camera has a 1/30th shutter speed and 220 degree shutter, roughly what asa should I set the external light meter to if I'm doing manual metering? I don't have time to shoot a test roll of 500T manually as I've too little time and the shoot takes place over 2 days in a location I wont have access to again so I need to get some useable footage without testing (which I know is a huge gamble). So essentially what I need to figure out is if my Minolta XL 401 can handle 500T on auto mode or if I'm shooting manually how to meter it. Thanks!