Jump to content

Chris Steel

Basic Member
  • Content Count

    69
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Chris Steel

  1. Absolutely true Phil, the problem often lies with lower quality boards not using polycarbonate or acrylic but a lower grade plastic with a coating, which degrades fairly quickly. They are often also quite thin pieces of plastic so are more likely to snap (as many of mine did). The right material should be no more than £5 raw, getting them engraved and painted is what usually costs the money.
  2. Every AC here uses TF90 (Inhibisol Cleaning Solvent) I'd avoid using anything as harsh as acetone or sand paper. That also looks like a fairly low quality board, the acetate might have already broken down making cleaning almost impossible. Pretty common with boards from amazon. I understand it can be tricky to source higher quality boards at a reasonable price point but my board cost me £60 and has lasted 5 years so far and will last another 5 easily. Even if the board breaks the resin sticks will be going strong. Before that I'd go through an amazon board every 4 to 6 months.
  3. I personally find a chest rig more comfortable in general as it spreads the weight and lets me attach a radio quite securely. My rig is one made by arri rental with magnet closing so that also helps when putting something away just after action is called (no loud velcro rip). It doesn't hold as much as most hip pouches so it's less heavy to start with. But these days, I have a belt with just my Hilti and Fatmax. It's nice to have everything on hand at a moments notice as a trainee and as a loader but when focus pulling I really tire of carrying all that and a hand unit around all day. When needed I still will wear a chest rig.
  4. I run my 058w with Hawk woods mini vlocks - getting about 2 hours from the 50wh version with teradek plugged in. I usually have this attached to my HU3 in a run and gun type setup. With the 98wh betteries it does get a bit heavy. I haven't had any issues with v-lock plates outside of really beat up rental cameras so I wouldn't worry about the battery falling off. It's a really positive lock these days. I think a full size Gold mount would be quite a lot to swing from the back of the monitor with a teradek on there as well. If you already have Gold mount and you're on a stand most of the time, maybe a bracket that attaches to a stand to power everything. Then for run and gun, put that on a tac vest or in a bag?
  5. Omnishot make one of those for the HU1&2 http://stores.omnishotsystems.com/f-i-z-battery-adapter-xt/
  6. Case-design.co.uk made that case and they make complete kits for monitors. I'm sure there are other places that do similar cases and mounts but I've only ever used the case design ones
  7. a carefully placed lens support with a rubber foot or strap on a static part of the lens. A cheap support is probably best as they are aimed at this sort of thing. If you have the option, turn the motor torque down to minimise stress on the adaptor. Pair of vice grips on hand just to threaten the lens with 😉
  8. In my experience method one is the preferred and it's how most professional cameras are set up. The second method is useful when working with cameras that don't natively support TC (Sony FS5, Fuji XT3) Most devices can hold time code longer than any single clip so I wouldn't be so worried about drift in a take unless there's a frame rate issue.
  9. Not just sand but sea air. Bag it. Keep caps on lenses as much as possible. Good sealing mattebox (clamp on) with optical flat. Lots of kenair, hand blowers. Small paintbrush to get rid of loose sand that gets in the bag. Silica gel packs in the lens box and camera coffin to reduce humidity. I carry large elastic bands and backpack covers to help close gaps and keep bags tight to the camera. My backpack covers are silver on one side to reduce heat from the sun (works ok in the UK but hotter places may need additional effort to cool the camera). Cover everything not in use. Clean lenses, filters & camera as often as possible, especially before boxing it overnight. There are a few posts about this already so worth checking out. Some people are really used to it and are really minimal, which is fine if you know what is good and bad but if sand is uncommon for you, extra vigilance can't be bad right?
  10. I started with a leica D110 which is small and relatively cheap. Not great range and is hard to see in direct sunlight but it is very fast and good for interiors. Has bluetooth so you can combine it with your phone to build floor plans. I've used a few and most work the same, some are slow to boot up and others you can't turn the beep off. I now run the Hilti PD-E like many 1st AC's I know. Feature rich, optical viewfinder, great range in sunlight. The laser isn't that easy to see in bright sunlight without using the viewfinder but it does get readings.
  11. The main one used is 35mm film cores from motion picture film. Pretty standard practice. For spike tape 16mm cores work well or empty sellotape cores. I've also seen some people use PVC pipe cut to size but not sure how that weighs up price wise if you don't already have spare bits lying around.
  12. I appear to have spotted this a little late. Think I was having a lazy Sunday then too. Hope it worked out?
  13. No film set in the UK gets started without a visit to the NAAFI Canteen
  14. The geometry looks a bit like it has vice grip esc elements. Quick locking and release catch? Hard to tell from those images. In my opinion it would need to have at least the option of a junior spigot on it to be useful.
  15. In the report I read they mentioned it would be a rotating group shown during commercial breaks, so next year it will be a different 4 categories. I hope as a sign of solidarity and fairness; producers, directors, leading actors, and composers all take their awards during commercial breaks next year... Yeah, thought not
  16. This video by Linus shows how they make it so small and also why the fans are so loud. Everything is super tight in there. Barely any air flow compared to even an alexa mini https://youtu.be/qFrK-l3VSzY?t=395 The new Red Ranger (for rental houses) looks very interesting. As it has an integrated rear module, the cooling area is increased and the fans can be made larger. All this adds up to 10db quieter running (according to the team at BSC this year). It's still smaller than the venice and has all the ports for integrated power supply.
  17. Might be worth having a play with different Power, Strength, Acceleration, and Deadband settings to get something responsive without side to side wiggle. I've used some kits that will bounce around an end mark if you pan too quickly until Hold Strength and Power are balanced out.
  18. Certainly sounds interesting. Beats making up 2m cables for everything and strapping them together. Is the umbilical relatively light and flexible? What outputs can be put on the end?
  19. Been an issue for a while with this combination. There are a few cable work arounds if you have a TC device that can loop through an RS signal but I think you'll lose the CTRL link. If you need remote RS for every shot, jam sync often and hope it sticks through an entire take. I'd recommend leaving a TC device on camera and switching the cables back and fourth depending on the needs of the shot or whenever the camera turns on. If someone has a better solution I'd love to hear it, this feels pretty janky to me still...
  20. This should work with all LANC style RS which includes most prosumer cameras like the FS7, FS5, A7 (series), Canon C (series), Blackmagic (series)
  21. Hawk woods make a Vlock plate for the TV logic which should sit on top of a teradek spacer (like the Media Blackout one) It's intended for use with the new HawkWoods Vlock Mini batteries as they're quite light. I power my 058 with VLM-50 batteries most of the time and mount to a manfrotto camera/umbrella clamp with the teradek on a spigot at the back. Not an ideal setup as it's a little heavy when mounted to the hand unit and not a stand. I've seen several people mount directly to a sun shade but I imagine that's more down to individual ACs and not rental houses
  22. You can get colour golf tees by the 50 pack for a few £ / $ - Check the sort of turf will be ok with being skewered. I'm sure sausage marks would be fine for dolly and crane marks. Metal T's are great, lots of gravity to them. Rubber marks are a good DIY option. Spray chalk is a thing. canned air held upside-down to freeze it then brush it loose for when you're done. I'm sure most 2nd ACs will have that sort of thing in their kit already or given notice could sort out such things for you.
  23. If it's particularly wet: Bag the camera, optical flat, allweather tape inside the mattebox to fill any gaps / wipe clean easily. PPE should also be worn if there's air canons in play. Sure don't want to loose an eye, not in this trade.
  24. I should preface, I'm a 1st AC and not a DP so this is all from what I've seen on set and I'm leaving things out which I would consider the working DP's IP or personal technique. 4'x4' Poly or bounce board hidden out of shot so when the torches land there you get more fill on that side. Far side seemed to work well. Maybe use unbleached muslin or other material to give a more natural feeling bounce. In close ups where one or more character is completely out of shot, have a spark operate the torch or instruct the actor to have the torch somewhere that gives more fill. Have actors point torches at each other when talking, to the chest worked well if standing close together as it wasn't too harsh. Finding some way of adding "realistic" practicals or external light could help you out. Inexplicable shafts of moonlight for example.
  25. I've had a preset with a slight crop on the framelines and a 75% matte to "hide" the vignette. Wont zoom in as such but it works well enough. I used the Arri framelines tool as it has more options than in camera
×
×
  • Create New...