Toni Vucic

Hi everyone! I was reading about line loss in Harry Box's Set Lighting Technician's Handbook when I noticed this: "a light operates at full efficiency only at its rated voltage. Operating at 108V (90% of its rated power), the 2k in fact produces only about 68% of its normal light output." But there was no data to back this up, so I was wondering how tungsten output scales with voltage drop. The loss in wattage (see attached picture) only brings us down to 79% power consumed. Couldn't find Harry's email either to ask. Hope you can help me! Best, Toni

Thank you Gregg (and Adrian Marsh), with the attached graph that makes sense. I still wonder about what Transmission Y and Absorption means in this context.

Thank you for all the thoughtfull replies. Power isn't an issue on this location. It's an old hospital and the caretaker has arranged extra circuits for films there before. But of course it's nice to not have to ask for that favor. Good point about the brute Albion, I might have needed some light diffusion to blend the bulbs. But we've decided against the brute due to the hassle of moving it and powering it. As far as I know, soft-lights are not available in Norway sadly. Very interesting point about the dichronic FAY globes David. I forgot they existed. Maybe one of the rental houses still has them, I'll keep it in mind. My angle now is going for HMI. Skypanels are out of our budget. My ideal solution now if the budget permits it, is a 6x6 frame of 1/4 silent grid cloth, with two 1800w Arrimax HMIs through it. My next best is the two HMIs through a 1x1m 1/4 silent grid frame each attached to the light (save money on easylifts and cloth woooo) Last choice is just one HMI through a 1x1m frame. I also fired off an email to Lee to ask for their thoughts and got this back:

Thank you for the replies David and Albion. The reason I'm concerned about light direction is because I want to maintain the intensity of the beam, so I don't have to rent a bigger more expensive light. If I need to use a diffusion that takes two stops to get the same size source as a maxibrute, I might as well use a maxibrute and gell it full CTB. Thank you for that Lee filters comparison. 264 Tough Spun 3/8 seems to have an interesting characteristic where it increases the source area a lot while only taking one stop of light. Lee claims in the description of all the Spuns that they leave the beam intact. 464 Quiet Quarter Grid Cloth has a similar effect. If we compare to the Half Soft Frost, the beam size seems to barely have increased, while it takes a stop and a half of light.. Thoughts?

I was looking at this today. I really don't understand the metrics on the right. What is transmission Y? What is "x" and why is it that value? What is "y" and why is it that value? What does absorption mean? I thought 0.7 would be "absorbs 70% of the light", but then the gel on the left has absorption 2.1?? I've had math, I know how to read a graph, but the numbers make no sense. Like, if x = 0.509 on the magenta graph means the middle of the x-axis. Then reading the y-value on the graph for that x reads 0. Yet it says y is 0.234.

Hello everyone I'll be gaffing a night interior shot on 200T film in a few weeks. The idea is to have a very blue moonlight through the window(s), and have the tungsten sources inside register as warm. It's a low budget short so there will only be one moonlight fixture (and a bunch of dimmed tungsten inside) DoP doesn't want the hard light from a pure HMI. I assume we will want to be able to shoot out the windows. My ideal fixture would be a daylight balanced maxibrute, which gives a window-sized source and a fairly focused beam. But I'd need more than full CTB to get the color we want, which is a real waste of energy. Is there a type of diffusion I can use with a 1.8kW Arrimax HMI that maintains the light direction and (somewhat) intensity while increasing the source area? My experience with stuff like Lee 250 and 216 is that it goes everywhere, and throw is lost. A grid on standard diffusion isn't the solution either, as a lot of light is lost when it gets absorbed by the grid. I don't mind doing double diffusion like in a softbox as long as it somewhat keeps its direction while getting softer. Thanks in advance :)

Thanks for the replies. What's the shittiest part of it? Anything unsafe I should avoid? Or does it just "look" shitty becaue of all the straps. Snapped this picture too to try to understand how it works.

Hi I work as a gaffer/best boy/electric in a small city in Norway. We only have one other gaffer and the jobs are usually too small for him to bring me along so learning new skills is pretty much only over the internet. We've had one feature filmed here since I started working about a year ago, and I joined for 4 days as electric with full union pay, which was amazing. But there won't be an opportunity like that in a long time, unless, I make one: This summer I'm going to the capital of Norway, Oslo to hopefully get better at my job. Especially rigging, as electrics in Norway do everything lighting related, including gripping lights. I'm just wondering, how should I approach this? Ideally I would want to get on sets that are higher budget and more complicated than what I'm used to, so I can learn. It's funny because I can gaff most sets here in Trondheim, but in Oslo I dare not apply to be a light assistant. Could I try to get on a production as a lighting intern? Does such a position exist? Does anyone even want that? I don't want to undervalue myself as I know quite a bit and would function just fine on a big set in most cases, espeically after this feature. But I also don't want to turn up on set on a commercial as the only electric, and not be able to rig the condor, or overhead lighting solution properly. The dilemma :/ Here is a picture of one of the rigs we did on the feature where I just stood by and scratched my head trying to figure out what they were doing.