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Scott Morrison

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    Student
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    London, England.

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  1. Yeah I was imagining that might be the case then. I've given the notch a clockwise spin and done the "sharpie" test and the film seems to run without jamming now. I'll give it another try with shooting it as I recon less than half actually ran through and I'd hate to waste that amount of film, thank you for the help :)
  2. Is it possible for the footage counter to run to 50 feet even if the film itself got stuck/jammed and stopped running through the camera?
  3. I shot two reels of 200T today on my Canon Autozoom 318 and the first reel exposed all the way to the "exposed" notch, the second one however doesn't seem to have shown the same notch even though the metre (I'm not so sure what it's called) did go all the way to 50 feet or "F" for Finished. Should I relax and assume that it exposed fully/almost fully like the first reel of film?
  4. Back again, I thought I'd upload a video of the footage I shot; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6FIRtLWOkhM As you can see the footage is quite orange/umber toned. I also noticed that the footage shot was very jumpy, could that be something to do with the film fitting loosely in the camera and jolting around? And as for the quality, I didn't pay that much to have it scanned, I believe it was around £8 for one reel; is the low quality a result of the quality of the scanning or the camera itself? Apologies for the row of questions, I'm still getting to grips with super 8! If anyone has any info or answers that could help me I would greatly appreciate it.
  5. I should probably add, I'm a student at the moment, so have a relatively low budget of around £50-100 for a camera
  6. I'm looking to buy a new super 8 camera. I'd like something that's fairly light and small like the Canon Auto Zoom 318, which I've got, but something which also has a fair amount of functions. I've borrowed a Sankyo camera before and loved the results of the film I shot on it, but I've noticed some Sankyo models only register certain types of films, are there any Sankyo models which would be worth buying?. I've been researching but can't seem to find many and so I was just wondering if anyone here might have a good model to recommend (something that still shoots well and is reliable after x amount of decades would be good!) before I spend a bit of money on one. Thanks.
  7. Hey, thanks for the reply. I ran the film through a projector to see and it was still the same; all very orange/red. So if a film is tungsten balanced I'm guessing it isn't notched and keeps the filter in tact? Would that mean I'd get another very rich/warm film reel if I were to expose it?
  8. Hi There, I recently bought a Canon Auto Zoom 318m camera from eBay. Everything on the camera works and functions as normal, however when I got some film back from development & scanning I noticed that the film was very warm/orange tinted. I wondered if it had something to do with airport security scanning as I tested the camera out while on holiday, however when I tried another reel of film the results were pretty much the same; it was as if I had put a very rich orange/red filter over the lens. The film I used was reversal Wittnerchrome 200D film which I understand is daylight balanced, so I wondered if that had something to do with it? I'm also aware that cameras have an 85 filter and I wondered if that was the issue somehow? (If it's also worth mentioning, I shot different scenes during both day and night). I'm a student and I'm fairly new to using super-8 and analogue filming and so I'm still getting to grips with the functions of the cameras and the differences between daylight and tungsten etc.; I'm basically just curious as to what might have made my film come out very orange and if its a technical problem with the camera that might need fixing. I've got some Kodak Vision3 200T film which I'd like to use soon and I was wondering if I'd see different/less orange results when shooting on tungsten; I'd like to know before I end up spending more money on another orange reel!
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