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David Scott

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About David Scott

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    San Antonio
  1. Thanks for the suggestion, I actually did consider it very seriously, specifically for the 54fps, lap dissolves and no sound, but, there wasn't a working one on eBay priced well at the time I was ready. I have heard they're noisy too, but I really don't know.
  2. And lastly, I went ahead and pulled the trigger last night and bought a 1014xls from Japan. I hope there aren't any customs issues and everything works properly as described. I'll be selling the movexoom on eBay with all of it's problems listed. Which means no one will buy it and I will end up taking it apart under the false pretence that I could possibly repair it and then throwing it away after a few whiskeys. I'll post pics. :P
  3. I know I said "positive copy" but I just meant a copy with no splices. I'm shooting on new ektachrome and tri-x.
  4. So far, the movexoom 6 has issues... Light meter seems to never move from f-stop 4, slomo 54 fps seems not to be working and lens does not seem to focus all the way to infinity. Needless to say, I'm still looking...
  5. I thought about the r10 also, but there was only 1 with a working light meter on eBay and it was the same price as the canon... Either way, good info here, will definitely post the film, results of the agfa and any other related info.
  6. Nick, yes, fully analog until the final scan after editing. At least I think that's what I want to do... :j I want to see the dissolves happen in the projected form. It's purely for the aesthetic, but also for the possible future showing. I THINK I WANT to get a positive copy sound-striped and project it. The idea starts to get away from me sometimes, thinking I want to roject it publicly, with other submissions, media, etc. Basically building a new, analog, local film festival. But, that's a long shot. Right now, I just want to watch a completed version of my current project projected with sound. I ordered a used agfa movexoom 6. We'll see how that goes when it gets here. I will keep the 1014xls as my ultimate goal in this format, but I do also want to do some regular 8 and 16mm. I've done plenty of video, nothing professionally, but never liked the look of it. So far, all of this is more like a hobby to me, but I am starting to lean into it harder...
  7. Well, thanks for the info so far. I have read multiple times on multiple forums that the meter in the 1014xls is something that can fail and that when it does, it can't be controlled manually either because the manual control is electronically tied to the auto exposure meter system. That's just what I have read. If that's wrong, please correct me. Next, as far as lens sharpness, I have heard the Nikon r8 was the sharpest, with the 1014xls and beaulieu/angenieu and r10 very close, also heard the agfa moviexoom 10 was really sharp. I've watched a TON of YouTube and vimeo videos showing all of these and honestly can't tell the lens differences, just the scan resolutions. So, for lap dissolves, the sankyo is good, is the lens?
  8. First question - canon 1014 xls... They're selling on eBay for $5-900. I've been wanting one, but it's really difficult to justify spending that much. Either way, I keep reading that once the light meter goes out, the camera becomes totally useless with no possible repair. If this is correct, then no matter how good the camera is, that makes up my mind not to buy it. Is this correct? No possible repair? How likely is it for the light meter to fail? Etc.? Next question - is there a list of super 8 cameras that do lap dissolves? That seems to me to be the most complex function a movie camera could perform and the main reason I want the 1014 xls mentioned above. I know some other cameras do it (agfa moviexoom 10, yashica electro 8 something, Minolta autopak 8 d12, sankyo 620 supertronic), but I haven't had much luck finding a working example on ebay, partly because people tend to act like they don't know how to operate the camera rather than tell you it doesn't work. Lastly, for tonight... Anybody know if that Kodak super 8 camera is actually ever going to make it to store shelves?
  9. I'm good, I have a changing bag I use, just in case my grip slips while rewinding.
  10. I have a Hama, this is the first time I've ever used it and it worked flawlessly. So, I would say that's my endorsement. One thing I wish it did, however, is lock the cartridge into itself. Basically, you have to hold it in there. Also, you definitely have to keep the take-up reel from advancing while filming in order to rewind.
  11. Ok, well, I went ahead and shot the film, didn't have time for a test roll, my film has to be at the lab in England by March 12th and scheduling actors, locations etc around everyone work schedules means I'll be throwing the package in the mail with just enough time. So, here's what I did- I underexposed the credits by one stop, but, I couldn't use a 35mm film negative with light behind, even though I made a slide duplicator out of translucent white plexiglass and abs plastic tube because I couldn't find quick processing for the black and white film. Anyway, I printed the cards out with white letters and black background, BUT the black has some printer streaking. So, I shot it, then rewound the film, put it back and started shooting the opening scene over the opening credits, also slightly underexposed by one stop. Unfortunately, I won't get to see it until the films are done at straight 8 and ready to be returned, so I won't know if it came out the way I wanted, but in the meantime, I think I'll shoot that test roll as an afterthought. For anyone info, I was able to very comfortably rewind the film by a total of 198 frames.
  12. The website I posted says on another page they use vision3, but not sure what ASA/ISO.
  13. Very cool option vs scanning immediately. This is something I had heard of a VERY long time ago, but was sure it wasn't part of the business anymore. I guess it is. https://www.widescreen-centre.co.uk/film-department/negative-positive-printing
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