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David Scott

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Everything posted by David Scott

  1. I've tried banging the cartridge around, pushing all moveable pins/buttons inside the film compartment, etc. and nothing. I also noticed the plastic window in the counter slot has fallen inside, but it does not seem to be causing this problem as it is not stuck against anything, it's just loose in there. anyone have a diagram of the film counter mechanism?
  2. I bought a 1014xls in awesome condition last summer. I've put about 5 carts through it with no issues. Now my counter is stuck at the end and won't return to zero so the camera won't run. Is this something I can fix easily? Or is it a major repair?
  3. Thanks for the suggestion, I actually did consider it very seriously, specifically for the 54fps, lap dissolves and no sound, but, there wasn't a working one on eBay priced well at the time I was ready. I have heard they're noisy too, but I really don't know.
  4. And lastly, I went ahead and pulled the trigger last night and bought a 1014xls from Japan. I hope there aren't any customs issues and everything works properly as described. I'll be selling the movexoom on eBay with all of it's problems listed. Which means no one will buy it and I will end up taking it apart under the false pretence that I could possibly repair it and then throwing it away after a few whiskeys. I'll post pics. :P
  5. I know I said "positive copy" but I just meant a copy with no splices. I'm shooting on new ektachrome and tri-x.
  6. So far, the movexoom 6 has issues... Light meter seems to never move from f-stop 4, slomo 54 fps seems not to be working and lens does not seem to focus all the way to infinity. Needless to say, I'm still looking...
  7. I thought about the r10 also, but there was only 1 with a working light meter on eBay and it was the same price as the canon... Either way, good info here, will definitely post the film, results of the agfa and any other related info.
  8. Nick, yes, fully analog until the final scan after editing. At least I think that's what I want to do... :j I want to see the dissolves happen in the projected form. It's purely for the aesthetic, but also for the possible future showing. I THINK I WANT to get a positive copy sound-striped and project it. The idea starts to get away from me sometimes, thinking I want to roject it publicly, with other submissions, media, etc. Basically building a new, analog, local film festival. But, that's a long shot. Right now, I just want to watch a completed version of my current project projected with sound. I ordered a used agfa movexoom 6. We'll see how that goes when it gets here. I will keep the 1014xls as my ultimate goal in this format, but I do also want to do some regular 8 and 16mm. I've done plenty of video, nothing professionally, but never liked the look of it. So far, all of this is more like a hobby to me, but I am starting to lean into it harder...
  9. Well, thanks for the info so far. I have read multiple times on multiple forums that the meter in the 1014xls is something that can fail and that when it does, it can't be controlled manually either because the manual control is electronically tied to the auto exposure meter system. That's just what I have read. If that's wrong, please correct me. Next, as far as lens sharpness, I have heard the Nikon r8 was the sharpest, with the 1014xls and beaulieu/angenieu and r10 very close, also heard the agfa moviexoom 10 was really sharp. I've watched a TON of YouTube and vimeo videos showing all of these and honestly can't tell the lens differences, just the scan resolutions. So, for lap dissolves, the sankyo is good, is the lens?
  10. First question - canon 1014 xls... They're selling on eBay for $5-900. I've been wanting one, but it's really difficult to justify spending that much. Either way, I keep reading that once the light meter goes out, the camera becomes totally useless with no possible repair. If this is correct, then no matter how good the camera is, that makes up my mind not to buy it. Is this correct? No possible repair? How likely is it for the light meter to fail? Etc.? Next question - is there a list of super 8 cameras that do lap dissolves? That seems to me to be the most complex function a movie camera could perform and the main reason I want the 1014 xls mentioned above. I know some other cameras do it (agfa moviexoom 10, yashica electro 8 something, Minolta autopak 8 d12, sankyo 620 supertronic), but I haven't had much luck finding a working example on ebay, partly because people tend to act like they don't know how to operate the camera rather than tell you it doesn't work. Lastly, for tonight... Anybody know if that Kodak super 8 camera is actually ever going to make it to store shelves?
  11. I'm good, I have a changing bag I use, just in case my grip slips while rewinding.
  12. I have a Hama, this is the first time I've ever used it and it worked flawlessly. So, I would say that's my endorsement. One thing I wish it did, however, is lock the cartridge into itself. Basically, you have to hold it in there. Also, you definitely have to keep the take-up reel from advancing while filming in order to rewind.
  13. Ok, well, I went ahead and shot the film, didn't have time for a test roll, my film has to be at the lab in England by March 12th and scheduling actors, locations etc around everyone work schedules means I'll be throwing the package in the mail with just enough time. So, here's what I did- I underexposed the credits by one stop, but, I couldn't use a 35mm film negative with light behind, even though I made a slide duplicator out of translucent white plexiglass and abs plastic tube because I couldn't find quick processing for the black and white film. Anyway, I printed the cards out with white letters and black background, BUT the black has some printer streaking. So, I shot it, then rewound the film, put it back and started shooting the opening scene over the opening credits, also slightly underexposed by one stop. Unfortunately, I won't get to see it until the films are done at straight 8 and ready to be returned, so I won't know if it came out the way I wanted, but in the meantime, I think I'll shoot that test roll as an afterthought. For anyone info, I was able to very comfortably rewind the film by a total of 198 frames.
  14. The website I posted says on another page they use vision3, but not sure what ASA/ISO.
  15. Very cool option vs scanning immediately. This is something I had heard of a VERY long time ago, but was sure it wasn't part of the business anymore. I guess it is. https://www.widescreen-centre.co.uk/film-department/negative-positive-printing
  16. Martin, thanks for all the great information, I will try to keep all that in mind, and I will shoot some tests first, I really have to get back in the habit of more planning and more testing before shooting final footage. Using digital point and shoot cameras for 20 years has really made me lazy, but I'm getting back into it. And thanks also Jon, not exactly the same, but definitely close enough to be relevent.
  17. Ok, very cool, thanks for the info, I didn't realize there was a clutch in there.
  18. Ok, I have more questions. First, I got a Hama reminder from a guy in Germany because my cameras don't do internal rewinds, blends or any of that. So, before I bought it, I thought it would just rewind the cartridge, but when I received it, it had this clip in it to place on the cartridge to keep the take up reel from winding the film forward. I've read before that the film would bunch up inside the cartridge, but I thought that would be in the rewind. My question is- does the motor or internal gearing of the camera get harmed in any way by the film cartridge not being able to spool forward? And then, my next question- doing titles... I want to do titles by double exposure. I've been searching, but all I can find online is how to do them in Movie maker. My plan is to type my titles and credits, photograph the pages on b&w negative film and use a slide duplicator in front of my macro focused lens to film the titles with black background and white letters on Kodak vision3 50d, then rewind the film and shoot the scenes. Or vice versa. It seems like it should work perfectly as long as the black in the 35mm negative is total black. I'm thinking the letters will come out completely white, not showing the scene through them and if the background is totally black, the scene will expose onto the film perfectly as well provided all settings are right. Has anyone done this? Is my thinking accurate?
  19. Is there some info somewhere to substantiate that Kodak was lying about this? I've heard the claim that it was toxic, but I've heard that of EVERY single photographic chemical since I first became interested in it in 7th grade, which was a LONG time before kodachrome was discontinued. Since I became re-interested in filmmaking 5-6 months ag, I've read every story I can find about kodachrome, Kodak, super 8 and filmmaking and all recite the toxic story, but I've had the suspicion all this time that the decision to kill kodachrome was probably more financially based and related to Kodak's bankruptcy. Not that the actual reason matters, to be honest, it's perfectly legal for a company to stop making a product whenever they choose.
  20. The camera is tested, I'm testing film speeds, apertures, lighting and other stuff to get a scene right. So, I don't need a 4k copy, but the colors and lighting need to be similar to intended. This is my whole problem with negative films. I have a working projector and have been shooting reversal film. Why involve computers into the mix? I miss kodachrome already and JUST restarting. Rant over. Basically, I need to see if what I'm trying to do with the scene comes out right on the film. Perry told me they have hi res outputs only, so no simple quick 1080p. No biggie, thanks again, I'll call a few places, including Spectra and get some more info.
  21. Ok, cool, downloaded VLC, works with the Apple pro res file on Spectra's link for testing. I need to do more research into what all the digital files are, those systems are foreign to me. Thanks for the info. As far as calling Spectra though? Nah, I have talked to them on the phone twice and was disappointed with level of verbal service and I was calling to buy film! I was thinking Cinelab, but they have different digital file names too and I'm not sure if I will be able to watch them, and they have a $150 minimum. I think monday, I'll call a few places and see what the best option is going to be. Thanks again.
  22. Ok so here's my next question, I've ordered 2 rolls of Kodak 50d, one as a test, the second as a submission to straight 8. I do not have a pc or mac, all I have is an LG tablet. I'm not 100% sure, but I think I can only really view up to 1080p in mp4 format. Pro8 is the only scanning company that lists mp4 as an out put, that I have found. And yet, a lot of people here tend to be anti-pro8mm. I only need the scan to see if my test roll gives me what I want. Pro8 is also more expensive. So, with my technological limitations, what would be my best choice for my test roll viewing for negative film?
  23. Thanks again for the suggestions, I think I will do all of them, taking some stills with set ISO's and shooting a roll to test for exposures in my scenes. Unfortunately, I don't have a light meter, I was referring to my auto exposure meter in the camera earlier. I will probably end up getting one soon, though.
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