David Scott

Thanks for the responses, and now another question, how many stops are there between almost black and almost white? I know the stops on my camera, but basically, I'm asking, if I shoot it in the middle of the meter readings, with bright Texas Sun coming in the doorway, but falling just in font of the lens, not into it, will I get almost black and white on color negative film? Or will it come out only SLIGHTLY higher contrast than a scene lit more "properly" for capturing all the detail? What I've read about vision 3 film is that it will still pick up a lot of detail in highlights and shadows, but the rules are to use a color negative film. Now I'm going to watch that video and see if it might help answer my question.

Per my other post, it's been around 20 years since I've really shot much film, maybe 15 for 35mm, but 20 for super 8. I've tested a few rolls recently, but not super specific to lighting and whatnot, just checking cameras. So, my question- I am going all in to shoot a straight 8 one cartridge short film. It will be on vision3, but I'm not sure which ASA/ISO I should use for a scene looking out from a dark room onto a bright scene with a figure silhouetted. I want the inner doorway as dark as possible, black would be nice, and the scene outside totally washed out, white would be great. I thought about using a sheer curtain to wash the scene out a little more, but not sure. I also thought about opening the aperture all the way, but then I'll get some shadow detail and I'm hoping not to. However, since this is a single cartridge short film whichever speed I choose needs to be compatible with the rest of the scenes as well, which will range from dark alleys to evening sunlight to lit city streets, a few well lit indoor shots and a few barely lit indoor scenes or single light source indoor shots. Any suggestions will be appreciated, thanks in advance.

Thanks for the info, I appreciate it.

I would also like to add, one scan I've seen by Cinelab has made the cut...

This is the scan by lightpress, it's impressive, AND they've done features, I am Zozo, for one... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODG_YWtx5F0

Here's the ocho y pico footage, it's freakin awesome, BUT I did get a weird vibe from their website, could be language barrier as they are based in Spain, I think... Just the "we're the best" kinda thing...

Yeah, I've seen the comparison, but I've also seen really good scans from pro8, but the BEST I've seen on YouTube are, in order - Ocho Y Pico, Lightpress & Gamma Ray. Most of them use some de-noising, but I think that's appropriate for reaching a wider audience, where natural grain and frame jiggle is appreciated by a narrower group. Thanks for the praise on my footage, at least I took it that way, I can't wait to get started on the rest of the project. I'm busy drawing sketches of camera cranes and sliders I will be building, as well as scouring Craigslist for free materials to build at least one set, but maybe 2, if I can't find another sufficiently dilapidated house. Just waiting for any word on that new Ektachrome, but won't wait forever.

Thanks for the info. I have already talked to both entities, pro8 and gamma ray. Gamma ray would be more expensive, but better quality. I keep seeing pro8 dis in here, but so far, the people I've emailed have been really cool, including Rhonda Vigeant. As far as locations, unfortunately, 20 years makes for a lot of changes, that old house is now a historical landmark and fully restored! So, completely uncreepy now. Not sure if you read the description on the lesser 720 copy on YouTube, but, all this footage was going to be used as flashbacks and visions in the primary story I was starting to shoot. When my actor moved away, I just cut up what I had and stuck it together and slapped a name on it. When I make the new version of my film (35 minutes vs 70-ish), I'm going to splice some of these scenes into it as was originally intended.

Can't edit that, so, re-replying... I called it "Artifact" in reference ONLY to the small idol in hand about 1/2 way though, not realizing the term was also used in reference to film anomalies and also not realizing it would be stored for 20 years and then rediscovered.

Ps, this is my 20 year old footage, all shot on kodachrome 40, all with a bell & Howell 442 filmosound 8, using various filters and sunglass lenses held manually in place. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LDM16lHld2s

Well, you got me thinking about the Provie again, sent them an email as to what's up with 40ft carts vs 50 and May go that route, I have seen some vids on YouTube filmed with it that looked really good, but we'll see.

I do have a PC, but it crashed a while back and I haven't gotten around to replacing it since I have a smartphone and a tablet. I have looked at retro 8, but the website always says the film is out of stock. I'll try the 2/3 stop with my next roll of Agfa.

I've been lurking for a few months, reading, searching, watching a ton of video links. 20 years ago, I started to shoot a super 8 film I had originally intended to be about an hour and 10 minutes long. Main actor moved and I never got back to it. Bills and life got in the way of all my art related hobbies, painting, music, photography, writing, etc. So, the eclipse recently got me thinking about super 8 again. Dug my stuff out, nothing worked. Started researching only to find all the kodachrome I had was useless (for me, as I don't trust myself to hand develop after so long), my 2 sound cameras were trash, my projector melted it's belt, etc. I started by getting a new belt, watching old footage, testing my 2 silent cameras and buying a new (to me) one, selling a lot of my old stuff and trashing the rest. I got rededicated along the way to finishing my film, now rewritten to about 35 minutes. Problems in facing are- no PC, so, no negative film, and Agfa 200d is SOOOO grainy. I keep hearing Ektachrome 100d super 8 is coming, but I reeeeally wish I knew when. I've checked with Pro8mm, they aren't sure, and Kodak hasn't responded to my email (expected). I thought about tri-x, but I really want color. I thought about getting a computer and using negative films, and it's still an option, but manually editing before scanning will be more cost effective, I think. I'm also considering just using the Agfa. I'm still relearning, but if anyone has specific tips for me or suggestions, I'm all ears. Especially if someone has a more specific date for the release of that new Ektachrome.