Lee Robinson

We're shooting on 35mm. Do you recommend 500T for 35mm because the grain holds up better in that format?

Sorry i should mention the object is hollow and so ill be looking through the front in some shots, so light would pass through the object and also come in through other open areas

Hey everyone, Looking for some advice on film stocks. I'm shooting a very tiny sculpture (1inch by 1inch) that is made out of a dry leaf in a studio. The material is kind of translucent and a light brown-ish color, feels very organic. We need to use LED lights for another reason. The lights can be close to the object, although for some shots i imagine they would need to be maybe a meter away. The lenses im using are macro and some of them have me right up within mm of the sculpture. I'm also using an extender which cuts 2 stops of light. I was thinking about stacking two extenders but i havent tried it yet to see if the framing is more desirable for some shots (but if its good then thats 2 stops for light loss). I want the colors to be warm and lighting to resemble morning and afternoon suns rays. Is it better to shoot on a daylight balanced film and use gels so the warmth isnt too overpowering, and also will i have enough light to shoot on 250D or 200T? Just thinking with the light loss in mind of the extender and wanting to still be able to have options for as deep of a depth of field as possible. I know 500T is very flexible but im wondering about grain when the imagery is so macro. What do you think? Thanks!!

I understand, but the internal camera reading should in theory match the lightmeter taking an incident reading from the same location as camera facing subject, with the aaton set to the true ASA with the ND filter attached, and the lightmeter ASA changed to reflect the amount of stops cut by the ND filters. Is that right?

Thanks for the responses everyone! Really appreciate it. Im going to be shooting the whole thing on 250D due to some constraints. One other question i have, and i apologize if i should make a new thread out of this.. but just to make sure im understanding correctly.. If im shooting 250D outside in bright sunlight, is it just a given that i should also be using a ND filter? And for example, if im using a ND0.2 (which cuts one stop), would i just be rating the asa on my light meter to 125ASA? And for a ND0.9 filter (cutting 3 stops), would i be rating the ASA on my light meter to 30ASA? Im using an Aaton xtr prod - does this mean the internal light-meter should give the same reading as the lightmeter (with adjusted asa)? Are there any other adjustments im missing? If i adjust the ASA on the lightmeter than i would be getting the correct exposure to set?

Hey everyone, Looking for a bit of advice on which 16mm Kodak film stock to use from the options below: KODAK VISION3 50D Color Negative Film 7203 KODAK VISION3 250D Color Negative Film 7207 KODAK VISION3 200T Color Negative Film 7213 KODAK VISION3 500T Color Negative Film 7219 The conditions im shooting in are a little up in the air, so i should be prepared to shoot both interior and exterior, although i will say that id expect most of the indoor shots to be during the day and with natural light filtering in.. as opposed to using tungsten. The interiors may still be darker in terms of how much natural light there is. There could be some mixed lighting situations, but some with no tungsten as well. The exterior conditions could be from bright sunlight to overcast but would be during the day regardless (no night time shooting). I'll be shooting people with darker skin tones (black and darker brown shades) in a straight forward documentary style and would prefer the look to be sharp, clean and less grainy.. The darker skin tones are probably my biggest concern.. I want the tones to be balanced, not too cool and not too warm.. As im guessing it will mostly be daylight as the light source, is 250D the safest option? Thanks!

Hey, Thanks so much for the advice!! Could you by chance recommend which tripod might be good for the weight? I'll be using Zeiss primes..

I would scan/digitize the negative and it would be playing on a vertical screen.. It seems a waste to crop it in post.. it would be a lower resolution? What parts would i need to rig the camera sideways so that the weight would be balanced safely? Thanks so much for the help,

I guess im wondering if there is a way that the camera could be rigged on its side on the tripod - so the subject would be able to stand/sit as normal.

Hey everyone, I have a project i want to shoot on 16mm and im exploring the idea of shooting vertically as they are moving portraits. The camera i can get access to is an Aaton XTR. I cant find any information online about anyone else having shot vertically with this camera. Does anyone have any suggestions on how this could be securely rigged? Is it possible? And are there any other implications that i havent thought of, mechanically or other, of why this wouldn't work? Thanks and sorry if im missing something really obvious! Lee