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D John Carroll

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  1. For a follow up for everyone interested I bought the camera and had it sent to Tyler Purcell in LA. He was able to repair the body to working condition. there were a myriad of issue, missing and loose screws and timing shifts in addition to the wiring problems. however the camera is operational and will soon be on its way back to me !
  2. At $1200usd I’m interested. Can you DM? I’m in the nyc area
  3. I sent you a DM on eBay regarding the mags. I have an SL and I’d love to grab the boards and other parts for repair. I just bought the rain cover from you. Let’s talk
  4. I’ve updated this to 1080p hd-sdi ill release a how-to soon
  5. Hello, Are these still available? I have the 12mm and id love to round out the set
  6. The size difference is no problem, that can be solved with step up rings
  7. Yea I agree. i use my 3D printer. It has a .4mm nozzle so it can handle printing fine threads. I’ve done m12 and C mount threads without issue. once you find a design you like it can be emailed to a company with a CNC or lathe. if I were rigging the camera on set in this way, I would use steel arms to mount it where the 15mm rods go, and then add a hole for the rods to mount on. basically a cheese plate in between the rods and the camera body, using that thread position. That would give it the least travel distance and wouldn’t interfere with the top handle. any offset issue introduced for the follow focus in the 15mm rods would be solved by using a dog leg
  8. If the front of the taking lens is threaded, using step-up couplers you could connect it to the original eye piece mount via the thread. It would require a little research to figure the thread of the original eyepiece but I’m sure it can be done. that would at least give it a 2nd point of stability. it could also have another arm going from the top cheese plate of the bmpcc to the 15mm rods, gripping them with a nano clamp. or use a dog leg similar to when a zoom motor is mounted above the lens
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