Ben Coughlan

Looking to buy a Lomo anamorphic single. Either 50mm, 75mm or 100mm. Thanks

Hi Guys. Im looking for some spares to try and salvage 2 of my round fronts that have been damaged. Looking for a spare anamorphic cylinder. Please let me know if you have anything in any condition, as I might be able to make it work. Thanks

I somehow randomly stumbled across this thread and had to chime in in support of Adnan. Around 4-5 years ago now, pre pandemic, I also had some lenses rehoused with Van Diemen and it was the worst experience. So much of what im reading opens old wounds. It was the worst service I have ever experienced. Lots of Lies, ignoring emails, promises that wern't upheld. Luckily Im UK based and in the end started court action and got my lenses back. However 3 of the lenses had incredibly poor mechanics and when they were opened up for a service elsewhere a year later, it turned out they had used 3d printed parts. I feel your pain Adnan. My advice would be to start some sort of legal action if you can. It is the only language Christopher seems to understand. Good Luck

Hi Shawn. Each lens has one of the ststems that you install once and then leave on (takes about 5 minutes) then you just swing lenses as you would with any other prime. You can see in the video how quick it is to change lenses. Mounting the motors like we do in the video, all iris and focus are in the same position so you don’t even need to move motors along the bars

Hi All I wanted to post something here that ive been working on for a while that I think will make peoples lives easier. Its a systme that now lets you use a clip on matte box on vintage anamorphic's where the front rotates (LOMO, TODD AO, Hawk C-Series etc) Hoping to make AC and DP's lives easier. You can use standard arri matte box backs, (Or bright tangerine etc) just as you would on a more modern lens. and also now no need to move motors on the rods when singing lenses as all the iris and focus gears are now in the same place relative to the mounting point. (of course you can still mount them traditionally if you chose) Heres a little video of it in action https://vimeo.com/395286742 and meaning you can strip away all cage ad rods if you want, perfect for gimbals https://vimeo.com/395287125 and the site. WWW.ARMACINE.COM Thanks guys, hope you like

Bump 1500 GBP

Easy Rig cinema 3 (300N) with flowcine serene arm. The rig takes the weight of an Alexa mini with all the bits (teradek, mattebox, FF etc) with small lenses (superspeeds, k35s, ultraprimes, kowa anamorphic etc) I have used it with heavier lenses (cooke anamorphics) but it dosnt take the full weight and you still need to support a little. As you can see there are some wear and tear on it, some paint flakes etc. Dosnt affect how it works. The vest is in good shape. Comes with 3x spare springs for the serene with different tensions. 2x spare ropes, all the bits you need to change the serene and the bag. The easy rig dosnt quite fit in the bag with the serene arm, as you can see it pokes out a bit. It never bothered me too much. You can get it in there if you unscrew the serene spring but its a pain. Ive lost the little elastic rope that goes round the serene because it always comes off. I use a bongo tie that is much more secure and efficient. as you can see in the last photo. £2500.00 but open to offers. Buyer to pay postage. I am UK vat registered so if buyer is UK, would prefer they were too. https://www.dropbox.com/s/qv3zr6ujom..._8152.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/iz24gezls1..._8153.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/ny1to2orgc..._8154.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/darv4teow0..._8155.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/7o29dblny4..._8156.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/7j03pfz87f..._8157.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/c7zz44ngqm..._8160.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/d29v1vzwto..._8168.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/mpgwl4xk5r..._8159.JPG?dl=0

For sale Arri FF4 with 15 + 19mm support. Speedcrank, whip, 7x marking disks, standard 0.8 gear and dummy side knob. Really really great condition. works flawlessly. Will ship anywhere, buyer to pay postage. £2000 GBP - open to offers Photos here https://www.dropbox.com/s/6wvybuapwh..._8065.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/8mfe9xljbm..._8066.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/9e40n8i4l8..._8067.JPG?dl=0

Sorry the stock was Vison 3, 16mm, 7219

Looking for a bit of advice. I just shot something in what I would describe as an overcast day, in pine woodland, so mixed canopy cover. Half way through the day I had one shot I needed looking directly up which required a 1.8ND. The loader left that in but also left the 0.9 sticker on the matte box. Therefore half that roll and following few rolls are all 3 stops under. I rated my meter for 320, so technically i'm 2 and 1/3 stops under exposed. Im now just debating how many stops I should push in the lab. If I push 2 stops, Id be nearer my intended exposure but at the same time it would be nice to try and recover the first half of the roll which will now be near 3 stops over. I could just push it 1.5 stops and then try to recover a bit more in the scan and grade, I would obviously have less grain then but Im worried that I might not get enough back if I do that. The grain isn't necessarily a bad thing as it doesn't need to cut with anything in particular, its more of a mood film so could work BUT if I can get it all back with a cleaner negative it would be preferred Any thoughts would be fantastic

Thanks for your reply Martin.. One thing that I probably should have mentioned is that when I push the battery check switch (middle of the dial) then the needle goes back down all the way to 1.8. Once released it goes back to F8

apologies for the AWFUL spelling. Typed at lightspeed

Hi Guys I have a question regarding my S800's light meter that apeears to be faulty. I replaced the batteries in the bottom of the camera to what I assume are PX625 modern day equivelants. The needle was still doing nothing when I looked through the eye piece. I then took the batteries out and had a little poke inside the compartment to make sure it was clean and pushed the terminal gently... Then tried the batteries again. Now all of a sudden I have the needle so the light meter is getting power. The probelme is that it stays firmly at f8 no matter what I do. Tried putting on auto and also tried moving therough the dial in manuaol mode but no joy. What ever I do it just reads f8. Any ideas? Thanks