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Patrick Baldwin

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Posts posted by Patrick Baldwin

  1. On 4/13/2023 at 10:03 AM, aapo lettinen said:

    most of the modern mirrorless cameras are pretty OK for video shooting as long as the built in compression is good enough quality for your uses. ( I would NOT bother with Nikon mirrorless products though, they are useful for stills but really bad for video shooting and have bad price-quality ratio for video production and some like the Z6 models have bad sensor issues and much lower dynamic range than advertised, the real dynamic range is only like half of what they claim it would be which makes it just sad to use these cameras)

    If you shoot lots of stills and relatively small amounts of video, then a photo oriented camera with great autofocus capabilities and resolution etc. would likely be the best choice. Panasonic cameras are great for videos and pretty good for stills too but the autofocus is more limited. I only shoot video and very rarely any stills so for example the panasonic GH line and the S5 have been great choices for me for shooting 99.9% video and only some two or three stills a year. The S5 could maybe be got at the OP's budget and is pretty optimal for shooting documentary stuff I think (built in sensor stabilizer, good enough video codecs for documentary shooting, can shoot very usable 50fps and 60fps in uhd, has real c4k resolutions available for normal framerates, can output really high quality 10bit 4k video or 4.1k / 5.9k raw video from hdmi even when the 1st gen only has microhdmi which is very fragile).

    but really, most of the around 2k priced stuff is fine (except the Nikon mirrorless models which I would avoid at all costs for video shooting).

    Likely you would want to use something which allows you to use the existing lenses with it which narrows the camera choice quite much

    Please explain to this Z6 user why they are so useless for video because personally I really enjoy my 10bit log and it looks great. What sensor issues?

  2. In an ideal world one would capture the same frame as the cinema camera along with other images. In reality it can be impossible to get that near to the camera. However, I have yet to meet a DP who wasn't happy to help me get into a good place. I've met a few 1st Ad's that were a bit grumpy! For clarity, I shoot more unit stills than moving image.

     

  3. I am not setup for time code but I have filmed quite a few multicam theatre shows with up to four cameras and synced them up using the waveform method in FCPX. Most of them were 2 1/2 hours long and there was no audio drift either. I have had very occasionally to manually nudge one track to achieve perfect sync but that is pretty trivial to do. 

    You don't need to make sure you have continuous takes either. NLE's synching capability can cope with gaps in takes easily. 

    Having said all that I think something like Tentacle synchs kit will do what you are asking in terms of time code. 

  4. 3 hours ago, Ryan Ivy said:

    Ahhh I didn’t even think about that! Completely spaced the additional ports on the H6! ?Thank you! This seems like a great option! I will see what I can muster up! Thanks again!

    -Ryan

    If you do this two things: Remember the shotguns pickup sound from the rear as well so you don't want chatty audience sitting right behind them and also remember to treat the two tracks as mono in post. It's not a stereo setup. Nobody will care that it isn't stereo. Good luck.

     

    • Like 1
  5. Assuming the show is not in the round but proscenium arch (end on) then the easiest and cheapest way would be to hire two shotgun mics and run them into your H6 and synch up to the camera(s) later in post. Have them on stands at the front but off to the sides pointing into the centre of the stage. You may get some off axis colouration depending on how wide the staging is but will be a better result than omnis and reduce the room/hall sound. That is what I have done on some of the theatre multicams I have done. Without knowing more details that is what I would do. 

    • Upvote 1
  6. In 2011 I was doing unit stills on a UK BBC drama and was amazed to see the focus puller alongside the steadicam op on a walking shot pulling focus without a monitor. I asked him how he did that and he very politely said "it's my job to know what 10 feet is". In 2021 I bumped into him again on His Dark Materials and he was pulling off a monitor next to a camera on a dolly. When I reminded him about 2011 he said: "I wish I still had those eyes!"

  7. I have the first gen BM recorders in 5 & 7 inch versions which I think you can still buy. I also have two Ninja V's. The Atomos is a far better product than the BM's. You cannot calibrate the BM but you can with the Atomos. The BM are tied to SD cards which is very expensive in the case of the 4K version. They eat batteries and are only 400 nits so useless outside. The battery circuit failed on my 5 inch so I use a battery adaptor into the mains socket. BM wanted more than the cost of a new one to repair it! The 5 inch has false colour but no waveform. The Ninja V is a 1000 nits so much more usable outside apart from full sunlight. It records to SSD's which is a much better solution than BM. 

    The second gen BM's look like a much better product and are 2000 or possibly even 2500 nits and aren't tied to SD cards. 

    If it really has to be cheap then find a second hand 5inch BM but with all the caveats I mentioned in mind. 

  8. 9 minutes ago, aapo lettinen said:

    it is pretty random flickering in most cases. you will have to try to keyframe it out the best you can.  make a correction node which has just the green channel pulse adjusted out and then enable/disable it when there is a green "flicker" frame keeping it otherwise disabled. check the rgb waveform or parade to find out how much the flicker pulse lifts the green tones and how to reverse its effect.

    lots of manual work but should make the shot usable and the audience will probably not notice the flicker anymore

    Thanks for that. As you say a LOT of manual work. I am on FCPX so probably even harder!

    Thanks again.

  9. I think I have just had this flickering. I had three Z6's using exactly the same settings as part of a multicam. 5000 ISO @f5 25fps in 1080 10bit N-log. Only one of them is exhibiting this flickering! Only in the darkest scenes of the performance. It was an intimate play so they were basically looking at the same thing. Brighter scenes on the offending camera were fine. It actually looks like LED flickering but clearly isn't. Worrying if it is that random. I would be interested to hear any ideas on how to make it usable in post. I am expecting it to be unusable when I get to the edit. 

  10. When I'm on the road I download to bus powered WD 1TB SSD drives which are routinely 300mbs using Hedge. Whenever I use mains powered 7200rpm drives the download is always 170mbs. It doesn't matter one bit who has made it or what the cache size is it is always the same. 

    The original posters problem is the bus powered spinning hard drives. I personally won't touch anything made by LaCie having had numerous failures in years gone by. 

    Huge fan of Hedge. 

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