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Max Thomas Schmitz

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  • Occupation
    Cinematographer
  • Location
    Los Angeles
  1. I am shooting on film (16mm) for the first time tomorrow and need some questions answered if possible. Just for reference, I am shooting on Vision 3 500T, and on a Bolex H16 Reflex. I also rented a Sekonic L-858D-U to meter with. The film is relatively simple and consists of two general locations 1) Looking out the window of a car at the stores on the street (commercial areas with more light) and 2) Inside of a liquor store. Questions Regarding Metering and Exposure: 1) A question regarding the Bolex. The Bolex I believe shoots at 133 degree shutter angle and from what I have heard loses about a 1/3 of a stop of light because of the viewfinder. If I wanted to adjust that within my light meter so I don't have to always calculate, if I add a -0.33 EV adjustment in the Sekonic, is that the equivalent of accounting for the loss of a third of a stop? 2) Question about how to meter scene from within car looking at street. I know how the lumisphere represents a 3d object or a person and generally you point it back at the camera to find the f-stop. How do I decide generally how light or dark a landscape is for example from the camera's perspective. When I simply pointed the meter from inside the car at the street, I got a reading of f-stop 1 at 2000 ASA (2 stops over my film speed), while my lens is wide open @ 2.5 f-stop (2 and 2/3 too slow), which adds up to 4 and 2/3 underexposed when all said and done if my math makes any sense. My question being, will I get an image if in developing the image is pushed 2 stops so its only a little under 3 under. Also, to be clear, I don't need everything to be seen. It is night outside, so certain things being in shadow is fine, I just want to make sure it isn't absolutely ridiculous and that store fronts are exposed properly. I took readings from next to the store front pointing back at the street and got an f-stop that is more manageable (should I be using this reading)? There isn't really a lot I can do with this one, considering I will just open all the way up and tell the lab to push 2-stops (their max), but still theoretically I would like the know if it is even worth trying. 3) Another question I have is when I am shooting and planning to push the film in processing. Do I need to change the ASA dial on the camera or just shoot it at 500 and tell the lab to push however many stops. This has been an incredibly long and dense post, and I want to say thank you to everyone who took the time. I really appreciate it! I have been having trouble trying to attach photos, particularly with the site accepting imgur links, so let me know if you would like to see photos and I can work on it.
  2. I am shooting on Super 8 using a Beaulieu 1008 XL (I know its not totally ideal for manual shooting but its what I have). I have Vision 3 500T stock, but while researching I saw that the camera only accepts stock from 25-400 ASA. I have two questions. One of them is more generally about Super 8 and the other two are more trouble shooting for the 1008 XL specifically. Thanks for any and all help. Question 1: Will the camera not be able to recognize the stock since it is over the limit, or will it for example just rate it at 400 ASA and I should adjust my f-stop accordingly (calculating whatever difference between 400 and 500 ASA)? Question 2: Also, it has a strange system to manually adjust exposure. You are supposed to have it on auto and look at different elements in the scene which will change the f-stop automatically based on how bright each element is. From what I understand, once you have reached an f-stop you like, you switch the camera to manual mode and the f-stop should be locked in place. However, on my camera, when I turn to manual mode, instead of holding on the f-stop value the camera shows a red box, which usually correlates to underexposure. My question is: Can I assume that even though the red box is shown, that the f-stop I locked on is what the camera is set to? Or should I just get slower stock and just shoot auto to avoid potential issues? Question 3: Finally, since it hasn't been used in a while, the eyepiece is slightly out of focus and makes it hard to determine what or what is not in focus. I've tried adjusting using a dial on the side but it doesn't seem to do much. The camera's condition seems to be otherwise relatively good, can I trust the lens markings instead of my eye and just measure out each shot. Sorry, this is such a specific troubleshooting question. I'm on a pretty tight deadline so I need to figure out how to make this work. And yes, I should probably just get a different super 8 camera but I have to use this one for this project due to time constraints. Here are some images to show what is going on. https://imgur.com/a/XhfR2Be
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