Shane C Collins

Looks like this film is now sold out! Well that's good for sales sake! Hopefully more people are filming with Ektachrome whether it be Regular 8 or Super 8. This stuff is so amazing when projected. Give it one stop more light and it looks perfect on screen! Good stuff!

Just wanted to give everyone a heads up that Spectra Film & Video is now selling Ektachrome color reversal (7294) 100D in the regular 8mm format. This is another option for those looking for this film. It appears to be in stock also! Here's a screenshot from their website. https://www.spectrafilmandvideo.com/Film.html

Thanks Nick for your input! I was beginning to think I was the only one who noticed the need for extra light with this stock LOL. 64-80ASA is a pretty good guess! Have you also noticed how nice this film looks on a cloudy day? The old stock just never looked good on a cloudy day, but not the case with 7294. However, one must apply that extra bit of light even on cloudy days.

The Bolex K2 I use to use for regular 8mm filming, has a clever little lever you can push down to close the viewfinder. I tried this one time while filming and it worked perfectly. My Elmo Super 110 that I use often has a plastic cap to place on the viewfinder. It's simple but works like a charm!

They are definitely underrated cameras! I'm not sure why they don't get mentioned more often. It may be because they were only around for about 5 years. That whole Elmo Super Series cameras were all built to the same high standards at the time. I am always surprised how quiet and smooth these 110's run. They never skip a beat!

In all fairness there are some Super 8 cameras that were all metal construction. My Elmo Super 110 is an all metal camera and operates like new. It's also one of the quietest cameras I own. Yes regular 8 cameras are definitely constructed to last but there are some stand out Super 8 cams. The Elmo Super 110 I own also takes very steady images with hardly any sways from side to side. The Bolex 18-5L Super I use probably also helps with steadiness when projecting these movies. Also of all the cameras I own I've never had a cart jam in the Elmo.

Does anyone happen to know how well Ektachrome 100D Super 8 film is selling these days? I'd assume this beautiful film is selling quite well?

Hi Simon, thanks for chiming in! Last year I read a post, similar to mine, where someone mentioned the new stock seemed darker after processing. That same person used the the auto setting with no compensation. I really think the new Ektachrome is better exposed around 80 ASA. I don't know it just needs extra light for some reason. As I mentioned above it seems less sensitive to light. It certainly has a larger latitude than the previous version. And yes I realize the Bolex isn't as bright as say a projector with 150 watts but it's still pretty bright even at 75 watts. I use the Osram HLX bulb and seem to get about 10% more light. Also the prime lens seem to help. The first Ektachrome cartridge I shot when this came out in 2018 was darker. I used a projector with 150 watts to view it and the film was very dark in the shadows. Once I made the correction of opening the aperture 1 stop the film really shined through.

I felt compelled to relate my recent experience with Kodak's new Ektachrome 100D color reversal Super 8 film. I shot a roll on Mother's Day and just got the film back. I projected it on my Bolex 18-5L Super with prime lens. The results were stunning! No I don't have a digital copy to share as I only project. I do have a recommendation for anyone shooting this new stock. This is my fourth roll of Ektachrome to date. Something I discovered early on was this stock needs some extra light. It is not as sensitive as the old stock it replaces. So here's what I did. I opened the aperture on my Super 8 camera by one f-stop. I did this for every scene I shot both outside and inside near a living room window. When I projected the movie today the results were perfect! That extra bit of light did the trick. I used the same procedure last year when I shot a roll near the beach, and had the same perfect results. This new stock is really stunning when projected! The grain is low, with nice contrast, colors, and sharpness. I think it's the best film to date, but as stated it needs that extra bit of light to really shine through.

A camera without a working light meter, whether it be the auto-exposure or manually setting the aperture is not something you really want to use. With the cost of film these days you really need a reliable camera that has a working meter. It makes filming so much easier. There are hundreds of good working Super 8 cameras for sale these days. If this was me I'd start looking for a better camera. I can highly recommend the Elmo Super 110. This is a nice camera to use. Dates from the early to mid 70's. No separate light meter batteries to worry about. I've shot several rolls of Ektachrome 100D color reversal in this camera and the results are stunning! Also one of the quietest cameras you will find. Anyways that's my honest opinion. You did indicate it was a thrift store find so you must have not paid all that much for it?

Are you pointing the camera at a light source? Sometimes you can't see the f-scale until there's more light in the viewfinder. Just a thought! Someone who owns own of these might be able to enlighten us more.

Here's another screen-shot from the brochure. It shows the viewfinder with f-stop numbers. However it doesn't indicate whether there's an arrow or something similar that points at the current f-stop. I'd say once you rotate to manual mode, and look through the finder at the same time, while rotating, you'll figure that out.

Also you should be able to see the f-stop numbers when you look through the viewfinder. Once the dial is free to turn, look through the viewfinder and rotate this dial until you see the f-stops change. There's probably a line or arrow that points to the current setting.

I found this sales brochure that Nikon put out when this camera was new. I circled the switch (orange) where you can change the aperture from automatic to manual mode. That dial probably rotates so you can set the f-stops. Hope this helps.

Thanks Andries for the information! I had no idea this was the case. I'll stick with Ektachrome 100D then!

Has anyone tried Kahl UT 18 color reversal 50 ASA Super 8 film? It's suppose to be similar to the new Ektachrome 100D. I read about this film today but never heard about it before. On8mil a film company in the UK is selling this stock and other's as well. I thought about buying a roll and trying it out to see how the colors, and grain compare to Ektachrome. The only problem is I don't really want to send it back to the UK for processing. I'm in the US so shipping to and back would probably take weeks. I wonder if anyone here in the US could process this film? I'm assuming it's E-6? Here's a link to the Kahl UT 18 https://www.on8mil.com/product/kahl-super-8-film-ut-18-incl-film-processing/

Thanks Jurgen I figured something was up!

Now that this site is working it seems I can't access the 8mm forum over at Film Tech. Anyone else having that issue? I've tried for 2 days and the URL will not load. Good to see filmshooting back up and running!

Great interview Jurgen! A very enjoyable read as all your articles are!

I'm not sure about the Canon 814 but here's what I can tell you. I shoot Super 8 using an Elmo Super 110 from the early 70's. The auto-meter is spot on any time I use it. The films I get back from the lab always project with good lighting and sharpness. It really depends on how the camera was stored, used, etc. Some camera electronics age better than others. In the case of my Elmo the light meter has aged quite well. I would shoot a test roll using the auto light meter and see what happens. Project your film and that should give you an idea if the meter is performing correctly. Or you could use a external meter and compare it side by side to the meter in your camera. In other words point both the external meter and the cameras meter at something and see what F-stops your getting from both.

There's a gentleman in Yuma, AZ who repairs and services Bolex regular 8mm cameras only. He will service many of the B-series, C-series, two D-series, and P1, P2, and P3 cameras. For other cameras I'm not sure but there are probably services worldwide. http://www.bolexrepair.com/camrep.html

Right and that's basically the difference. The P2 having a shorter zoom lens and a different focusing mechanism. But other than that the results on screen should be the same as the P1 and P3. After I have my P2 serviced and can get some film I'll report back. That probably won't be until Summer. I was ready to order the new Ektachrome 100D for regular 8 but it's already sold out. So I'll be waiting for a restock, etc.

Todd I think all three P-Series cameras share the same lens. The only differences that I'm aware of are zoom capabilities. The P1 and P3 have longer zooms. The P2 appears to have the same Pan Cinor lens as my P1.

I can definitely recommend either the Bolex P1 or P2. I have both of these cameras in my collection. The SOM Berthiot Pan Cinor lenses on these cameras is very sharp. Not quite as sharp as the Kern Switar, as found on the Bolex K2, but the Pan Cinor lens is still very nice. The P-Series Bolex cameras are also very nice to hold while filming. The pistol grip handle makes shooting film easier. I would recommend, if you decide to get a Bolex, to either get one that's been serviced or send it to the Bolex repair shop in Arizona. The lubrication and grease can harden in these old cameras from years of sitting around, or lack of use. I have a P2 that will need to be sent out at some point before I try using it with film. The cosmetics are mint on the P2 and I think it's been maybe used once or twice and put back in the Bolex box 50 some years ago. Anyways not to discourage you but just something to be aware of. Once a Bolex is up to snuff they are great for all around filming. The light meters even still work in my P1 and P2. I bought a wein cell battery with adapter from the gentleman in Arizona who services Bolex cameras. The wein cell has the same voltage as the old mercury batteries that were used in these Bolex cameras back in the 1960's. Good luck with choosing a camera. I would also like to recommend once you do start filming to buy some color reversal or black and white reversal that you can project. Watching your films this way will make you appreciate the format more. No matter what anyone says projecting is still the best! Regular 8 and Super 8 was made for that reason!

This is great news for the regular 8mm format. I tried to order some but it's already sold out. I'll have to wait until it's back in stock. I'll have to ready my Bolex P2! In the mean time though Kodak's Ektachrome for Super 8 is fantastic! It's the best color reversal to date. Although you must tweak your exposure a bit to get the best results. My recommendation is to overexpose by one stop, and use a ND filter in bright conditions. This new film seems to like light and if it's underexposed it tends to get very dark in the shadows. The grain, contrast, and sharpness are very good!