Steve Cutler

Find out any info on this? I have a similar looking head except each axis has 4 settings for resistance, or 1 setting that has no resistance and 3 progressive levels of resistance.

Hi all I've got a technical question - I'm trying to decipher whats going on in this cool spot shot by Kasper Tuxen, specifically the kind of 'non crystal-sync' looking exposure variation or flickering that is occurring around 1:05 and again from about 1:13 through to 1:25. Have you seen this before? Is it as simple as they shot it with an older wind up 16mm camera without crystal sync or is it something more complicated? Maybe a modified krasnogorsk? Is this effect recreatable with a production level 16mm cam like the SR3 or is this a special homebrew made using an old toy 16mm camera? Would love to get your input, cheers Steve

True indeed, an LTR and a 416 all look the same on the other side! IMO the LTR 54 is the entry level professional grade 16mm camera (the SR1 is just too loud, although I'm sure usable if you can get around that) you really don't need anything more than the crystal sync, videotap potential, and a handful of variable speeds, although the perks of an XTR are definitely a bonus and I would love to own one some day.

Getting rid of some old gear and wanted to clear this filter out, looking for $200 OBO. pictures here: https://ibb.co/album/rxtSJL Located in Toronto but can ship, let me know if you have any questions or want more photos thanks! Steve

Can't buy the lens but love watching your vids Olle, you're a talented guy

In Montreal you've got Mels (formerly vision globale), world class lab and scanning with all the bells and whistles like rushes but on the pricey side. Toronto has Niagara custom lab which is absolute dogsh*t top to bottom in my personal experience (and many of my friends): Old chem, no guaranteed timeline, dusty dry box, low quality scan, bad service etc. Plus they'll charge you out the wazoo. For the past couple years I've been sending all my film to Cine-lab across the border in MA. No issues and great quality stuff at a much better rate but similar quality to MELS. --- For s16 gear rental in Toronto you've got LIFT (Liaison of Independent Filmmaking Toronto). You have to pay a fee to join and then you get access to their gear at cheap rates (in the great tradition of north american film co-ops). They have several aatons and some good 16mm lenses, including some bayonet mount mki superspeeds and some Angie zooms. I think some of the bigger houses rent s16 gear as well like SR3s and 416s and whatnot but at that point you're looking at some pretty steep rates. hope this was helpful!

you should do stand up

like Goku and Vegeta in here

I answered this question in my post - they have a bad reputation for taking weeks and weeks to ship out

bump

Anybody got some of this stuff that they don't need anymore? I know all about its issues but just can't get enough of those swampy colours! Would prefer to buy secondhand as Orwo seems like they're not great about shipping things out in a timely manner cheers Steve

Hi all, putting a project together and searching for any second hand vision 3 freezer stock - also looking to pickup a bit of 5294 for stills tests. cheers! Steve

legendary troll

Think this one would work? https://www.long-mcquade.com/232511/Pro-Audio---Recording/Signal-Processors/EcoFlow/DELTA-Portable-Power-Station.htm

Lots of shit eating scammers out there

Did the 49.5X0.75mm work for you Adriano?

Thanks Aapo, I already have the 9 pin cable and an arduino so - other than potentially shorting out the circuitry in my camera - I'm not too worried about incurring any additional costs (not counting the playtime spent working on it). Unlike you I'm not looking to manufacture units for sale, I'll just incorporate the computer and screen into the 3d printed housing of my DIY videotap/battery mount solution that I've designed for my LTR. cheers and please let me know if you find out anything more about the 9pin logic!

Hey Bernhard, did you ever find out any info about this?

Thanks Aapo, yes I read the start pin needs to be shorted to ground here: Very curious as to how to control the rest of it. Measuring the footage seems simple as the camera is outputting a signal and one just needs to write some code that detects the output and acts accordingly. As for the frame rate control I'm still searching for that info. If at all possible would like to avoid burning out the boards on my camera but these are still highly protected industry secrets I guess. Hard info to find!

Hi Evan, wanted to follow up on this post as I'm looking to make a similar controller to interface with my LTR7. How did your remote start/stop feature work out? cheers Steve

Did you make a prototype? I'm looking for more info of how you would go about interacting with the electronics - i.e. do I give power to the 'start' pin and for ex. 1200hz to the 2400hz pin at the same time if I want it to go at 12fps? or do I just send square waves directly to the 2400hz pin without anything else? Curious to know if you've played around with the controls and how this plug functions.

Hey Aapo, curious about how your setup worked out. Were you able to confirm that the information in the email was correct? I'm thinking of trying to build something like this too with an arduino.

Hey Nima, very interested in this as I am pursuing the same course, Your prototype video is down but I'd love to see what your setup looked like if you still have it! cheers Steve

I'm on the lookout for a 16mm s16 superspeed mk1, shoot me a DM if you have one you're trying to get rid of thanks!

Hi all - I'm looking to find out what size the threads are on the original mk1 s16 superspeeds for the purposes of buying step up rings to make them all a uniform 80mm. From diving into an old cinematography.com thread I've found that the 25mm and 16mm have 58mm front threads but as for the 12 and 9.5 I'm not sure. Does anyone have this info and can anyone confirm that 58mm is right for the 25 and 16? thanks! Steve