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Philip Forrest

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About Philip Forrest

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  • Location
    Mid-Atlantic region, USA
  • My Gear
    Filmos, Bolex RX5

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  1. Angenieux and Som Berthiot both made a few zoom lenses with the specific formulation for the reflex cameras. Unfortunately, all of them are just as big as, or bigger than the Vario Switars. Phil Forrest
  2. Stick a piece of gaff tape over that slot, you may get a light leak. Phil Forrest
  3. Since you're looking through the lens with closed down aperture, then also looking through the reflex finder, you're not going to be able to see much. You may need to get the camera cleaned, lubed and adjusted, but what you're describing sounds exactly like my REX4. I came to Bolex after working with Filmo 70 series cameras which all use parallax finders, so looking through the lens is a new thing for me, but it's not bad to move the eye over to the Octameter finder I have on the film chamber door of the camera. If you're comfortable doing composition with a parallax finder, definitely get one
  4. Using old third party slip on adapters and shades is probably your best bet. The Switar 25/1.4 takes a 33mm slip on adapter and fits series 5 filters and hoods. Sometimes these things are almost free from local brick and mortar camera shops, if you can get to one. When you get the proper fit, they work really well. Other than that, look around the house for plastic things you can use as shades: 35mm film canisters, pill bottles, etc. Phil Forrest
  5. Hoods may already exist. Which lenses are you wanting to shade? Phil Forrest
  6. Bolex motor is sold. Feel free to make me offers on any other gear in the ad. I'm trying to lighten the collection this year and want to eventually pare it down to "just" three 16mm cameras and a handful of lenses. Currently, I have shelves of this stuff that I'm looking to send along to someone else. Phil Forrest
  7. Watch out running that old film. I've found that old Kodachrome emulsions like to flake inside cameras, leaving the gate to be cleaned judiciously, and leaving the film chamber dusted with tiny emulsion flakes, like a bad form of glitter that has the ability to turn to concrete. The REX 4 should definitely be sent out for service then used. Awesome cameras, nice lenses. All good users. Phil Forrest
  8. I came to 16mm from a career as a still photojournalist, so I get where you're coming form with regard to photography techniques. Regarding aperture, f/5.6 is still f/5.6 etc., no matter what format you shoot. The thing that changes it is the reflex prism of the REX camera. You'll have to compensate by reducing your ISO on your meter. For that Kern zoom lens, find a C.R.I.S. adapter so you can use silver oxide batteries that have a longer life than the horribly expensive Wein cells. If you want, you can build one yourself with a diode to reduce the voltage to the proper level. You
  9. I bought a Filmo 70-KRM with one of these built into the door. It was placed there by a 3rd party years after the camera was made. Phil Forrest
  10. Be careful with threading anything in there, and try to use a filter or adapter with a brass ring, like B+W or Heliopan. I know that might be a big investment just to take a chance on a filter but if you use aluminum and the thread pitch or depth is wrong, the metals may bind up, nearly permanently. Then you're stuck using destructive methods (hacksaw, files, dremel) to remove the ring and those fine metal chips can scratch the lens as well as get into the focusing helical. Don't give up, just take your time and find the correct adapter to use. The friction-fit series adapters work pretty well
  11. If it's a very fine thread, it is just part of the lens construction and not meant to hold a filter in. My C-Mount 50mm, 25mm, and 10mm Schneiders are all like this. The fine threads hold in the beauty ring and the optical cell. I've seen the same on older lenses for still film cameras in various formats. Before manufacturers established a thread pitch standard with standard widths, every company did things their own way and either used slip-on filter/hood adapters or used a proprietary ring to adapt series accessories. I know Schneider made a few of these in the 50s and 60s, and I recently lo
  12. This is an 8mm camera and it's either proprietary or D mount. You can only adjust the aperture of this lens, it does not have the ability to adjust focus. You may be able to get one lens element out from the back with a spanner but it may not budge. I'd say clean the front and the back, make sure the aperture moves smoothly then go shoot. Phil Forrest
  13. Good that you got the crank removed and are figuring out the mechanism. I was curious about how this would end up. The Filmo model 70s are made to be fixed. Much easier to work on and more reliable. The motors don't run as long as a 240 but they are way quieter. Really professional cameras that can withstand whatever is thrown at them. I have a 240 around here somewhere I should dust off. Phil Forrest
  14. Was it not made for a press on Series VI adapter? Phil Forrest
  15. That is awesome, Webster! Makes me want to grab a Filmo and blast through a roll at 64f/s. That footage is great and it shows us all how incredibly stable the Filmos are! Phil Forrest
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