Jump to content

Antoine Pret

Basic Member
  • Posts

    67
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Antoine Pret

  1. 12 hours ago, Eric Eader said:

    Also, WD stands for "Water Displacement" and is not a lubricant per se. It is great for removing water but will harden over time eliminating any lubricating properties it appeared to have.  (New, unwitting firearms owners make the same mistake, sometimes with more serious consequences).

     

    Oh ok, I didn't know that, thanks !

    @Dom Jaeger You're my saviour thanks a lot !!

  2. Hi,

    I got a great pistol grip for flat base bolexes that seems to have gone stiff. I've used it a lot with no problems but now the trigger just won't come back when I press it.
    I've tried to put WD40 around it but with no luck. 

    I started taking it apart but I don't really know what to look for. If anyone knows anything or maybe has a repair guide that would be wonderful !


     

  3. Hi,

    I'm preparing for a shot and was wondering if it was possible to have say 3 magasines of 400ft, each one loaded with different film speed and to change them when we need to, so that we can have a more flexible shot list ?

    Is this possible with a Arri SR3 or AATON XTR PROD , and to keep track  of how much film left there is ? Or do I need to organize the shoot based on what type of film I have on the first magasine and so on ?

    Thank you

  4. 1 hour ago, Adrian Sierkowski said:

    I have a 508 zoom spot and it is fine; though I have found that you need to hold the read button in for a few moments to get the actual reading. it reads true compared to my Minolta IVf and 758. As long as you're not getting whacky with shutter angle or high fps, the non-cine will be fine. Personally I do a lot of those type of calculations in my head. I would recommend the 758 overall, but starting on a 508 and keeping it around as a back up isn't a bad idea. I would send any used meter to be calibrated though.

    I much dislike the 858 touch screen. EVERYTHING took longer to do on it vs the old scroll wheel.

    That's what I was thinking. I mean, besides metering with footcandles they seem fine. Shutter speed to angle is no problem.
    I saw that you can approximately calibrate a meter yourself with greycard or with the sunny16 rule and the user compensation button. It might not be the best but I can't seem to find anyone calibrating meters in Europe ??

    Also, is the flat diffuser something essential to have in a light meter ? Again thanks for the answers...

  5. Thank you Eric for the detailed answer !


    The reason I chose those two is mainly because it is in my budget and I wanted to know what will I miss by using them instead of a cine version. 

    I came across a post on this forum stating that the Minolta VI was good for cinematography, but this was back in 2007 even though I don't think a lot changed since in this regard.

    The manual of both meters states that you can choose FPS, shutter angle, make film speed adjustments, combining spot & incident metering, averaging measures... What more is needed ?

    Now, If getting a used late 90s/00s lightmeter for this price means a recalibration is needed then yes, maybe I should wait until I can affrod the L-758C !

  6. Hi all,

    I want to upgrade my trusty Minolta IIIF to a meter with both incident & spot meter all in one.
    The use is for Super 16mm film work and stay with it for a while !

    I have narrowed it down to :

    The Sekonic L-508 ( not the cine version)

    • The spot meter is 1 to 4 degree but it has no viewfinder reading.
    • The incident hemisphere can be retracted to get a flat reading.
    • It's around 350 to 400€ used


    The Minolta Flash Meter VI (also under the Kenko 2100 name)

    • The spot meter is a 1 degree, with viewfinder reading.
    • It's around 270 - 300€ used.
    • The hemisphere can't be retracted.


    Will I be missing some features with one of those meters for cinematography work ?
    What seems to be the best buy in the long run ?

    And also do they need to be sent for calibration or it can be done by the user ?

    Thank you 

  7. Hi all,

    I will probably move to Canada next year, and I was wondering what city I should consider to find work and people to connect with in the film industry ?
    Right now, I do some DP/AC work and also direct on small budget music videos, short films & commercials and willing to work on projects with bigger crews.

    In France, where I am right now everything film related is pretty much in Paris.
    I work there sometimes, as I'm 2h from there by train and have connexions, family there.

    So, I'm mostly looking at Toronto or Montreal and considering Vancouver for the proximity with LA.

    From what I understand, the scene in Toronto seems bigger but everything is pricier and the competition is harsh.
    Montreal seems like a nicer place, cheaper,  plus I speak both languages - but less work and competition I guess, might be a good entry point before moving to Toronto or other ?

    Also, very interested in knowing if there are Labs/scan facilities and rental houses that have film cameras, especially s16 !

    Thanks !
     

  8. Hi ! 

    I'm selling this lovely little Arri matte box (Model LMB-3)
    It's a sturdy clamp-on mattebox that takes 4x4 filters.

    It has two filters trays, but one has a missing piece that is retaining the filter (see pics below).

    It has a series 9 adapter so you can clamp it on 80mm OD lenses, and without it's 87mm I believe.

    You can filtrate with 4x5.6 with an other tray in vertical.

    The flag can be removed and folded.

    Can be a great use with ARRI SR cameras but can also work with digital cameras.

    Asking 150 + shipping worlwide (PayPal or Bank wire).

    Pictures : https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1TbofEgtwwvKoZUL_sknmp5bCow8ZSDht?usp=sharing

    Thanks ! 

×
×
  • Create New...