James Machado

Joe, Those are great. I have the original factory charger coming to me. Will that charger work with these new batteries? or is it a different technology?

Hi. I'm going to be coming into an early model Canon Scoopic, but it is missing its batteries. I'm looking to purchase a pair of batteries that are functioning or battery shells that I can have re-celled. Thanks!

Also, back in the 1990s, Eastman's Tri-X reversal had specifically laid out the ISO and processing for negative cross-processing. See the link: https://www.kodak.com/uploadedfiles/motion/7278_TI0603.pdf I'm not saying that the two stocks, 7278 and 7266 are the same, but I find it interesting.

What do you think about this as a start point? http://www.charlieegleston.com/uploads/2/1/7/5/21756736/hand-processing_handbook.pdf Charlie suggests 3 minute developing on TRi-X as a negative. If I combine this pull with rating the tri-x at 100 ISO, do you think I'm in good shape at least to begin running tests?

Thanks for the input. I really appreciate it. As this is my first go and the chemistry is free, I'd like to see what results I get with Sprint (1:9 working solution is standard). My expectations are tempered, but I think I'm definitely going to go with Tri-x and process negative. Since I'm a total novice, can you offer any suggestions as to temperatures and times to get a good image? I know you said soft development, but I don't have the experience to follow you. If possible, can you explain what I should do as you would a child and then after this go around, I can start to experiment. I'm just trying to start someplace.

Pull it relative to what because there is no stated development time for standard b&w developer and tri-x. shorter duration compared to XX?

Fantastic resource. Thank you! What do you think he means by “soft development”?

I'm going to be shooting and hand processing some B&W 16mm film in our university darkroom. This is my first try at this, so I am going to keep the procedure simple by processing negatives only. The library is acquiring a Lasergraphics Scanstation that I will be able to use, so I'm not too worried about only having negatives to show for the work. The Art Department owns huge quanitites of Sprint Standard B&W developer, stop bath and fixer. I've been given permission to use as much or as little of this chemistry as I need to do this work. Since much of my project costs are tied up in supplies and film stock, I want to take advantage of this offer even if it impacts the quality of the processed film a bit. I mainly just want to get decent looking images that are watchable. I'm not looking to compete with a lab and I'm not trying for an experimental bucket look. Sprint provides developing time for Double-X so I've got a sense of what I need to do. I was wondering if there was any value in shooting Tri-X and processing it as a negative. What is your take on quality, latitude, and likelihood of success using a standard B&W developer on Tri-X to get good images? Can you offer any advice about developing times/temperatures using this developer? Is there anything I need to do while shooting in order to get good images when processing tri-x as a negative? Do I need to alter the ISO? Right now, this project is 16mm, but in the future if I start to do some of this work with Super8, I will be shoehorned into using Tri-X since they don't can Double X in super 8. Any and all advice would be much appreciated.