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Michael J. Flynn

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Everything posted by Michael J. Flynn

  1. In regards to resolution, I think the 30-ish screens that show Oppy on 15/70 are the very, very limited scenario in which a film print can be better in *some* areas, and in my opinion it’s not even “K” related. The full aspect ratio Dune trailer, for example, had significantly more digital noise and compression to my eye than the 15/70mm shots in Oppenheimer. Both were perfectly sharp and not resolution limited, but Oppy’s film print had less image degradation than the rendered file Dune was shown on. We’re really being picky here, because the truth is, any Arri digital camera or 35mm film and up is more than enough resolution for all but the biggest screens in the world. On the other hand of this coin, is the generation loss of the 5-perf stuff in Oppy - some of which looks great, and some of which is way grainier and muddier than it should be with all the contact printing really losing a good amount of resolution. The black and white scenes especially suffer. I’ll be seeing a standard 70mm showing of Oppenheimer next week, and I’m curious if the 5-perf 65 will look significantly better and match more with the 15-perf shots.
  2. Hey all, I recently directed a short on Super 16, and when I got the 4k scan back, I realized the image was backwards - flipped horizontally. If they scanned the wrong side of the film, would that affect image quality at all? I feel like some of the shots are softer than I expect from Super 16 and Super Speeds, but I guess that also could be the fault of our 1st AC lol.. Just looking for some opinions/guidance on this, and whether or not it's worth it to try and get the lab to rescan the emulsion side.
  3. Yeah, I just shot my thesis on Super 16 with a Cooke S4 18mm, and it looks great. Maybe a bit more telephoto than most Super 16 stuff, but we were never hindered by the angle of view - granted, we were almost entirely exteriors. S4's are also beautiful, so your mileage may vary, but I'd second investing in 35mm lenses.
  4. Hey everyone, Trying to make some budget back for my thesis film's pickup day as we have a bunch of extra film we won't be using. I'm selling 3 rolls of 16mm 50D, and I'll throw in a roughly 250' short end we have as well. It's all fresh stock, purchased at the end of December. I'm asking $375 + shipping for the 3 rolls (125/per which is basically the student price I paid), and I'll throw the short end in for free. Best, Michael Flynn
  5. True. I'm sure we could find an underclassman experienced enough to not screw up following he camera around with a battery, but we'll see ? Seriously though, thanks for all the suggestions, everyone. I knew I came to the right place with all the reading I've done on here in the past - it's a great resource. At the moment, it's looking like we may be able to get the current battery block we have for it replaced/re-celled, but I'm definitely going to look into all these suggestions especially to make handheld work easier to do. Temple University. Hasn't been used in a few years, but it seems to be in good condition - fingers crossed the film comes back okay. We've got two 400' and one 1000' mag.
  6. We shot some test shots handheld yesterday, and it can be done. My DP isn't Hoyte van Hoytema, but he's telling me he doesn't think it's *that* much harder than an Alexa Classic. I'm skeptical, but if he can make it work then great. And I meant - when we're using the motor on and off, the battery lasts about 30 min before it can't power the camera. If we didn't run the motor at all, we'd get maybe 45-60 out of it. You can basically watch the green light bars go down as it runs for more than 60 seconds.
  7. Thanks guys, Our film tech is trying to see if they can get the battery for the BL re-celled, but my school is notoriously unsupportive of the old film equipment (despite being the only place in Philly with working cameras...), so we'll see. If she's able to, I wonder if the best solution would be to use the battery block for the BL (rated at 13.6 volts) for the Aaton as well since they both connect via 4-pin xlr. Otherwise, I may have to see if my producers can budget in buying some batteries... none of the rental houses here have anything NiCd as best I can tell.
  8. Hi all, Long time lurker and first time poster here. I'm a film student based in Philly, and my friend and I are prepping a short we'll be shooting a combination of 35mm and Super 16 (on the Aaton XTR). My school has a 35mm camera - the 35BL - but it hasn't been used in a few years since we're students and obviously film is expensive on ultra low budget projects. The block battery that runs the camera is 13.6 volts I think - which the manual states is the peak operating voltage - but it holds less than a half hour of charge with the motor in use since it hasn't been recalled in probably 15 years. Essentially, I'm wondering if anyone has any battery solutions - my biggest fear is blowing up the computer bits by overloading it with too much power. We're running into a similar issue with the Aaton. A rental house nearby has an Anton Bauer Cine Vclx/2 block battery which outputs 14.4 volts via 4-pin XLR. I'm hoping this works for the Arri which can handle up to 16 volts, I believe. I'm more worried about the Aaton which is rated from 10-14. The Aaton has two 12 volt batteries, but they're old, and we're shooting exteriors in the winter - so I'd like a battery block solution. Thanks for all your help in advance - I haven't shot my own project on 35mm before, so I'm really hoping we can get a power solution for this camera. My school is actually giving us a roll of Fuji to scratch test all the mags and make sure the motor, gate, etc. are all in working order, and we're actually doing that test later today.
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