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Floris Vanhoof

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  • Occupation
    Other
  • Location
    Belgium
  • My Gear
    camera BOLEX EL, projectors Eiki, Hokushin, B&H
  • Specialties
    Experimental films on 16mm for art installations and expanded cinema performances.
    Homemade musical circuits and modified 16mm film projector.
    Multiple exposures, macro shots, computer controlled interval timers.
    Tech for installing 16mm film loopers and slide projectors at museums, 16mm projectionist for events

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  • Website URL
    www.florisvanhoof.com

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  1. I found the lens cap for the Meteor. Any idea where to buy 80mm rubber tubing that could used as sunshades for the Meteor lens?
  2. The eyecup on my Krasnogorsk 3 is too small, so I'm wondering if there would be a universal rubber eyecup (oval, like Bolex) that would fit on the K3. And which inexpensive front lens cap and sunshades would fit the Meteor lens?
  3. I’m curious if anyone is building a TTL light meter inside a Bolex nowadays. Like the one done by “HBH” at the bottom of this page: http://bolexh16user.net/ExposureAdvice.htm Is there a DIY kit with the tiny light meter available anywhere? Making thousands of single frame shots in the field works way faster with a build in lightmeter. And I found out that the mechanism of the Bolex SB is better fitted for this job then the Bolex EL (that has a build in lightmeter).
  4. Hi Johanan, I'm curious if you have pictures of this setup. Did you use a specific kind of servo motor with linear actuator? Any idea if these ones would work?
  5. update: I reinforced the Lowepro inverse 200 aw with some old US LC2 suspenders, and this makes it much easier to carry. Also tested a Marmot-Walkabout oversized pack, but the Lowepro zipper is way handier for the camera. Other carrying advice and methods are still welcome.
  6. Last 2 weeks, I made thousands of single frame shots with my Bolex EL, each with their own light measurement. And now when the light meter button is pushed in, the light meter works, but does not jump back after waiting long enough nor after pushing the release knob to start filming. This problem occurred gradually, first only sometimes and now all the time. After waiting minutes, there's a soft click, and after this I can fiddle with the light meter button to stop measuring the light and start filming. Anyone experienced with this? Or ideas how to solve this problem? Thanks on beforehand. Floris
  7. With internal dimensions 30.5 x 15.3 x 21.2 cm, my Bolex body just fits inside the Lowepro inverse 200 aw beltpack. I enjoy carrying the camera this way, but filming would be less of a hassle using a beltpack that's a little bigger, so the lens can stay on. Any suggestions for camera waist bags, hip bags, and belt packs (not rucksacks) from professional to completely DIY solutions welcome. How is everybody carrying a 4 kg camera on day hikes? https://www.lowepro.com/be-en/inverse-200-aw-black-lp35236-pww/
  8. I can confirm that these connectors will fit but I'm still searching for the same in an angled, "L"-shaped version to make the wiring more compact. After almost one year, I'm very happy with the NiMH recelling of the original battery pack that fits to the camera. This makes the camera (with detached lenses) fit in a Lowepro inverse 200 aw bag that I take on long hikes and can even be strapped to my handlebar. One of the two metal parts that connect the cell to the camera got lost though so I'd be happy to buy one of these or an old EL battery if someone has this.
  9. Thanks for the tips David and Doug. Someone wil need to focus during the screening then, as only one side has sprockets and I rather not go dimmer. After years of reversal, I'm only started filming on negative stock this year. Happy it's not my splices that make it unsharp.
  10. I filmed on 3 different stocks, and spliced them together. (2 work prints and one reversal stock) In projection, when a new stock begins, it is out of focus and I have to refocus. Is it because of the slight thickness in film? Because of the precise cut of the splices? Or because of the tape holding the stocks together? Is this normal and is there something I can do about this? After summer, I will have a negative cut and proper prints made, guess that will solve it anyway. But for now, I learn a lot from splicing the work prints and showing them as a work in progress that can evolve every screening.
  11. Thanks! Is there a tutorial or manual how to take it apart? Otherwise I'll take it to a technician in Brussels next time.
  12. ps: would it be a good idea to lubricate this switch, without taking the camera apart?
  13. Hi, When making singel frames, the switch lever on the side of my Bolex H16 likes to stay in the P position. I have to give it the switch a little touch to go back to the middle. What to do about this? On my other Bolex, a well working SB, this jumps back to the middle with ease.
  14. I've been searching and asking around for a Bolex EL technical manual or camera technician for a while and can't find any. Definitely following this and curious for pictures if anyone opens your camera.
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