Jake S. Del Mastro

Hey all, I've been doing a lot of 16mm stuff lately with my K3 and I really wanted to try it on a steadicam. While its light enough that balancing isn't too much trouble there is one issue that's preventing me from trying it, it doesn't have a video tap so I can't run it to a monitor & obviously I can't look through the viewfinder when its on the rig. I guess this would apply to any camera without a video tap like a bolex or older arriflex. So has anyone tried this on a camera like this? What was the solution? Do you stick a small camera in the viewfinder? if so what kind of camera works best? Do you stick a camera on the top or side and approximate framing? Something else? Thanks

So then I guess there's nothing special then, just keep bright lights out of the shot, and block everything else with the matte box? Was kinda hoping there was some magic anti-flare filter I was not aware of, but I guess nothing is that easy ?. I'll just have to frame my shots very carefully. Thanks!

Hey all, I've been messing around with a new lens for my Krasnogorsk-3 (bayonet version), an old soviet Mir-11 12.5mm lens. I like the general look of the lens because it has some interesting distortions, however it really likes to flare, like a lot and it tends to wash out the image. There aren't too many wide angle options for this camera so I would really like to make use of this lens. Despite my efforts adjusting my matte box I can't seem to get the flares down to an acceptable level in many scenes. Does anyone have any tips for working with old uncoated lenses like this?

Hi I am experimenting with shooting kodak 3378 sound film in my Krasnogorsk-3. I was wondering if anyone could share any tips for processing? It was shot in bright sunlight at 12 ASA using an incident light meter. I will be processing it myself in Caffenol. Having never developed such a slow film before I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction regarding development timing. I've never quite grasped the relationship between film speed and development time and basically just arrived at timings via trial and error, hopefully someone can help me understand. Is there a good rule of thumb?

I've been experimenting with B&W reversal developing recently using some DIY chemicals and I was wondering about the clearing bath. What exactly does it do? I've heard that it prevents your film from having a yellow cast (a problem I've been encountering), but how exactly does it do that? Where is the yellow coming from? Is it silver oxide? I've heard about three different clearing bath chemicals, sodium sulphite, sodium metabisulphite and potassium metabisulphite. Do they all do the the same thing or does it depend on which bleach you use?