Luuk Schröder

Hi Mark, I assume you mean the 'Catozzo C.I.R. M.3 Super8-2T Special' as listed on the super8reversal website. I haven't seen them online yet, but I can imagine its durable and easy to use... Personally I use the smaller CIR super8 splicer, which is pretty ok but can leave a small gap in the splice if you are not careful. I find the fuji single 8 splicer with perforated tape the easiest to use.

Hi Frank, Thank you very much for the tips! Is the reason that you have the splicer on the left of the editor so that you can pull the spliced piece of film onto a reel without reversing it? Good to hear the splicing tips, I never really thought of it like that so thats really helpful. Best, Luuk

Hi There, I am currently editing a super8 film with a Minette S5 editor and a CIR 8mm splicer. With this particular setup the film is loaded into the Minette editor with the sprockets facing away form me, while splicing the film should be done with the sprockets towards me... This turned my workflow into a bit of a scramble. I decided to first mark the whole film that needs to be cut and then make the actual splices. As I don't have that much experience editing, I was wondering if some of you would like to share your analog super8 editing workflow? Thank you!

Hi Ed, The problem I have is that the mechanism sometimes completely stops, with or without film. So this seems different from what you are describing. The way to fix my problem is by pushing the claw mechanism forwards, not at the film gate, but in one of the corners (see image, blue circle). Perhaps you could try to change the claw pressure by adjusting the screws?

Hi there, I've been shooting ektachrome 100d on a nizo 561 macro without the filter. I haven't considered making an adjustment to my light meter readings and up till now the footage has come out to my liking. I think for this film I used the auto exposure to check and set it to manual aperture based on the initial reading. Hope that helps!

Ah I see, that makes it clear, thank you!

Hi Bernhard, just out of interest, what do you mean when you mention the 'Lee' you use for the Leicina cameras you have?

To check the light meter battery charge you can press the small red (?) button on the exposure knob. The dial should then point to the '8', if it is above or below you need to change the batteries.

Hi there, kind of.... the film transport claw tends to get stuck sometimes. It still happens but by now I know how to make the camera function again when it happens. Also I managed to get a second Nautica ^^

Hello, I've shared the manuals here: Nautica manual

And thanks for the video, good information to have here.

Hi Ed, yes I'd be happy to send you the service manual. Could you message me your email address? It's in pdf and the filesize is too big to attach here.

A few people have asked the same question, so if you search around you might get a more detailed answer. But in general it's fine, vision3 reacts well to a slight over exposure. I used it in a Canon 1024 that also shot at 400ASA and it worked well.

Hi Mark, I see, then it's the splicer, not myself. If it works in the projector I don't mind. Also, I often make scans before editing, so it hasn't been a problem yet. But interesting to think of it in relation to the safe action and safe title standards. I'll have a go on the cement splicer as well, and see how that works for me.

Ah, my mistake, the splices are visible because of the film editor's framing. It shouldn't be visible on a projector...

Hello, I just started splicing and editing some of my films with a CIR splicer I bought (it's the 'de luxe new matrix' one: https://van-eck.net/en/product/cir_8mm_splicer_-_super8-single8_-2/). With each splice I can see a tiny light strip in the film editor, as two film ends just don't seem to touch. It also happens when I attempt to push the films slightly closer to each other before using the tape. Somehow I do not remember this happened with other splicers... is this normal?

Fantastic!

Hello, I think I know the answer to this, in the top right of the video is a condensator buried below a printplate. This is probably broken. In this discussion: https://www.filmvorfuehrer.de/topic/22741-diy-nizo-reparatur/page/7/#comments (It is in German), someone is discussing the same problem you have, and fixed it by replacing the condensator.

Hi Todd, I managed to make some progress with your suggestions. The problem turns out to be with the claw mechanism, not the motor or gears. When the pressure is wrongly adjusted the claw mechanism jams, which causes the whole thing to stop. When I loosen the claw pressure the problem happens less frequently. In the service manual (see image) is explained that the claw mechanism should have a pressure of 10-16 p, but I have no way of measuring this. In addition, excentric F which sets the side pressure was missing, so I took it from the Mini 3 : ) However I am not too sure what would now be the most sustainable way of fixing the problem... So I was hoping someone could help me further. Thanks a lot for your suggestions, in the least I learned a lot.

Hey, that is a good idea, except I already opened my Nautica ^^ I've been very careful though and haven't made any damage I think. But perhaps I could follow your advice anyways and practice the repairs onto a mini 3. Unfortunately I don't have the service manual for the Mini 3... do you happen to know whether I could find a digital version?

I managed to buy a Eumig Nautica service manual online, which is pretty brief at just 4 pages and only covers the dismantling and electrical charts. It says that most servicing and repairs are the same as with the Eumig Mini 3 PMA camera. This service manual is 28 pages long. Is it likely I can find basic servicing, like what to do with the gears, in this manual? In that case I'll buy it and wait for another week...

You can get the Chinon pocket 8 manual here: https://www.camera-manual.com/chinon-dart-pocket-8-manual-2559-eur It's printed and postal though...

Also, the filter that flips in front of the light-meter came off. What kind of glue is best to use for remounting it?

Update: I managed to track down the problem! After a pretty far disassembly and having several tries with cleaning contacts with alcohol, I got to the motor part. With a small screwdriver I managed to push and rotate the gear directly attached to the motor (see image) a few rounds. After this the whole assembly 'worked' again. So it seems that the gears were encountering too much resistance for the motor to drive them. Could this be due to some dust getting stuck in between, or due to a lack of lubricant? Clearly, the motor occasionally not able to forward film and shutting off completely are the same problem. At the moment I am not sure how to proceed, by blowing out the dust? Or by adding a tiny bit of lubricant? And if so, what lubricant should I use?

Hi All, Last summer I managed to buy a working Eumig Nautica on Ebay. Like many camera's that haven't seen service in a long time it worked for a few films and gradually stopped working. Firstly it had trouble forwarding films, and later on the motor stopped responding. I could fix that with a sharp tap on the camera's body, but at some point the camera completely stopped responding when I pressed the filming trigger. The circuit is still working though as I can see a red light when I press the testing knob. I've tried to contact many different places for servicing in Europe without any luck, so I think I will give it a go myself. Unfortunately I cannot find any service manual for the Nautica online. Does anyone know whether there's a different Eumig camera that has the same or similar inside of which I could use a service manual as an example? Or a good general guide on servicing Eumig cameras? Or any other advice is much appreciated! Thanks a lot! Luuk