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Rowan Tuckfield

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Everything posted by Rowan Tuckfield

  1. Top - 30' - Fomapan DS8 Bottom - 100' spool - Fomapan DS8
  2. After years of B&W still photography I wandered into the "movies" two years ago and am loving the new craft of regular 8mm and DS8 exclusively shooting fomapan r-100. I am well aware of the extraordinary reputation of the Bolex H16 and am hoping to learn if everything that makes the H16 a great series of cameras (build, registration, reliability, longevity) are built into the H8 series as well. I don't need a reflex. I don't need sound. I currently shoot with Quarz DS8's (2x8s 1M and ds8-3) and don't mind the smaller format of regular 8. I like the Meteor lenses but am really looking forward to using the dedicated Bolex lenses. Thanks in advance and apologies if I haven't found an existing thread.https://vimeo.com/770504716
  3. I love this DS8 camera and especially its subtle but contrasty Jupiter lens. So, it was extremely disappointing to find the 5 Fomapan R100 films I shot during a 3 week road trip around regional NSW and Victoria came out completely overexposed except a few hopeful scenes shot indoors. Upon close examination it turned out that the aperture was permanently open atf1.9 and the aperture adjusting tab had no effect. One of the things I love about these Soviet cameras is that once opened up (simple) the mechanisms are straightforward and, in this case, designed to be fixed! Step 1. Unscrew the selenium cell's retaining ring and remove 2 screws holding the cover plate. No need to remove the ASA selector knob. Step 2. Remove the 4 deep set screws holding the metal front cover. This lifts clear away with no wires, etc. Step 3. Notice that the cog supposed to engage with the teeth on the lens that adjusts the diaphragm has drifted out of contact. Step 4. Loosen the two screws that retain the cog base plate - this allows the cog to swing in and out. Step 5. Set the f stop adjuster to fully open (f1.9) and manually move the "toothed ring" on the lens barrel to fully open the diaphragm. Step 6. Swing the cog in to engage with the teeth on the lens barrel. Step 7. Tighten the two screws securing the cog base plate. Step 8. Re-assemple. What a joy. By the way, I found what appears to be an exhaustive service manual for Soviet movie cameras here http://www.sovietcamera.su/src/Remont_kinokamer.pdf.
  4. One of the great things about 8mm and DS8 is the low cost of cameras, processing (B&W) and black and white stock. Coming from a still camera background where bulk loading 35mm is normal, I was keen to explore bulk loading 100' 8mm/DS8 down to 25' reels. This would mean I could get the cost of a 25' Fomapan r-100 reel down to AUD$15 - perfect for someone needing a lot of stock to learn about this "new" medium. An 8mm editor seemed the obvious way to transfer but: 1) 25' in-camera film reels don't fit on the projection reel spindles on 8mm editors 2) Will the film be scratched as it is handled/loaded across from the 100' reel to the 25' reel. 3) Measuring the correct length in complete darkness 4) Starting the film in the tiny little slot on the 25' reel in complete darkness. Mismatched Spindle holes. Apologies for the following instructions. I should have taken pictures while I was doing it.... a. Take a 25' in-camera reel and use a dremel/drill/file to expand the "4 slot" spindle hole until it will fit over the editor's spindle. b. I had an irreperable Sekonic 8 camera from which I removed the "3 slot" spindle. I then MacGyvered it with superglue to protrude out of the other side of the reel. c. Superglue the 25' reel to the projection reel then add any required spacers/washers so that your "to be loaded" 25' reel will catch on your MacGyvered spindle. b) Film Length Easy. Count the number of turns using a waste roll. On my editor it is exactly 60 turns. c) Starting the take up reel in the dark. Easy. A small piece of painters tape just like you start a 35mm film bulk load. d) Scratches? Don't know. I'm off to the darkroom/bathroom to process my first reel!
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