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daniel mahlknecht

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Everything posted by daniel mahlknecht

  1. the 1:1 shaft is needed to atach the newer elrctric motors to the camera (it meas that one turn of the motor is one frame ), the older bolex had a 1:8 shaft (slightly more on the left than the newer one) and needed 8 turns of the motor to get one frame exposed. you still can use the springdrive, there is a lever on the side of the camera where you can switch between spring or electric drive. (change only when spring is not loaded, when using electric drive springdrive must be disabled, relase button must be fixed to filming position and the highest available framerate of the springmotor should be selected, you will choose the desired framerate on the electric drive, and you will also start the camera with the button on the electric drive) daniel
  2. hi, is it possible to swich the xlr audioinputs on the canon xl2 from mic to line? i have rented a xl2 but there is no manual, and i can not use my sound devices premix mixer as it has only line outputs. thanks daniel
  3. it was the same camera but without the wireless function (cost ~ 50?), they are very cheap made in china discount cameras you can find in big supermarkets.
  4. i shot on the sbm with the 10mm, 16mm, 25mm RX (non preset), and the 75yvar end the poe zoom 16-100 (not modyfied for 16mm). only the 10mm has a minimum of vignetting, but you can see it only on the neg, I would say that it is safe to use the lens for s16 (i have done it). I have heard anyhow that the preset-version of the 10mm works worse for super16 than the ordinary rx lens. The zoom also does not cover the full super16 area in the widest range (worse than the 10mm), still it does easyly cover the safe area. the 75mm yvar works fine (i have read that the rx lenses are only really relevant when the lens is shorter than the 50mm, my experience with the 75mm would confirm this ) daniel
  5. the krasnagorsk is supercheap, while a bolex costs quiet a bit more. with the bolex anyhow you can atach easyly an electric motordrive, so you can make longer shots, and you can use a 400ft mag (on the bolex rx5 and the bolex sbm wihich are the two most interesting modells) but this only with electric motor. the krasnagorsk can easyly be converted to super16, especially the one with the M42 screwmount, because centering the lensmount is not strictly necessary, as photografik lenses will always cover super16mm. I would say that the bolex is much more a serious camera, but the krasnagorsk is much cheaper and also much handyer. daniel
  6. hi, i have used this camera on my bolex, when I used it on a crane, it was possible to check somehow the frame, but the camera needs a lot of light, and you can not give it to it, because for a higher speed film you need to close your lens, and I already didn't see nearly anything with a 50ASA film in the camera. Fokusing is not a problem, but anyhow I would say forget it, look for a faster mini camera. daniel
  7. I have an VISION3 head and I'm quiet happy with it, you can cange the spring of the counterbalance so it is suitable for cameras from 2,5kg up to 10kg. just be sure of how much the camera in your usual setup weights and buy the apropriate spring (you get only one when buying, each spring extra costs about 50$). The head is very leightweight (75 bowl) and to me this is very important. I have the 8kg spring as I use normaly the JVC DV GY700CL, when I use my Canon XL1 I just loosen a bit the screw of the spring ad it also works. I prefer this system to the sachtler and it is cheeper to. daniel
  8. I have an scoopic double super8 which should be the same as the 16mm version, there the batteryblock (which is placed over the vievefinder) can be unscrewwed and can be refilled with ordinary AA batteries or recargable ones. Maybe your block has only been sealed with a shrinking rubber. daniel
  9. hi, try to put on a super8 c-mount zoomlens on your bolexand zoom to a position, where the lens starts to cover 16mm, this should give you the darkening effect on the edges and it gets softer the more you open the iris. I have tried a 6-70 zoom of a beaulieu zm4, it worked but I had to use the lens at 60mm otherwise the effect was to strong. No direct light must hit the lens, otherwise you would see the metalstructure of the lensbarrel. An easier way might be cutting a round hole from a lback cartboard and fix it in front of the sunshade, being so close to the lens it should blure and give you the desired effect (of course also this depending on the focal lenght and the iris used) daniel
  10. hi, correction of my last mail, I have cecked out the features of the different bolex modells (on the AMERICAN CINEMATORAPHER MANUAL), the EL and the EBM have a fixed shutter at 170°. Only the h-16 REX5, the h-16 SBM have a variable shutter and it can be fixed at 135° (open), ~100°, 67,5° and closed. the SB is like the SBM but can not take 120m (400ft) mags. daniel
  11. Hi, I have the Bolex SBM and there the shutter starts from 135° and can close to 0° but you can not fix it at every position you want unless you use a tape to fix the lever. I belive that also the EL has a variable shutter but I belive that it starts at 170° . The difference between the cameras is, that the el has an built in electric motor while the SBM has a springdriven motor and an optional external elecrtic motor (bot cameras can be synced and can take 400ft loads). they have bolex bayonet mount. I'm not sure if c-mount bolex cameras like the RX5 have a variable shutter, for sure the Bolex M has not. daniel
  12. I have posted the question so often because the first times I got an error report and did not realize that it had already worked. Thank you a lot, for the pages, now "unfortunately" I can be sure that I have bought a half modyfied camera, it has the s16-16 groundglass which can be shifted as described, and it has the super16 gate identical to the xtr also with the hole for timecode. but the viewefinder can not be shifted as there is no space or spaceholder, and on the body there is only one set of three holes (the two upper ones can be shifted probably just to center the lens for reg16, but it seems to be enough for s16 also). I cecked the centering with my regular 16 zoomlens by holding a mattglass to the filmgate and centering the projected circle in the gate. Its all a little homemade but it seems to work and the flange focus distance is still ok. thanks also to nathan and luis daniel
  13. Hi, I have just bought an Aaton ltr7 super16mm. Unfortunately it was set to standard 16 and I have to set it to s16, and it seems not to be the same super16 conversion as described in the usermanual, but i can not be sure, because of the bad illustrations of this manual. I managed to shift the groundglass and the lensmount (the lensmout I just loosened the upper 2 screws and shifted it as much to the motorside as possible and refastened the screws, in the manual this operation sounded totaly different). What I could not do is shift the viewefinder, so I do not see very well the right angle of the super16area. I belive that on my camera it is not possible to shift the viewefinder, how can I understand wether or not the camera has ben modified for this operation? A foto of this detal of an ltr7 where this can be done would be of great help.
  14. Hi, I have just bought an Aaton ltr7 super16mm. Unfortunately it was set to standard 16 and I have to set it to s16, and it seems not to be the same super16 conversion as described in the usermanual, but i can not be sure, because of the bad illustrations of this manual. I managed to shift the groundglass and the lensmount (the lensmout I just loosened the upper 2 screws and shifted it as much to the motorside as possible and refastened the screws, in the manual this operation sounded totaly different). What I could not do is shift the viewefinder, so I do not see very well the right angle of the super16area. I belive that on my camera it is not possible to shift the viewefinder, how can I understand wether or not the camera has ben modified for this operation? A foto of this detal of an ltr7 where this can be done would be of great help.
  15. Hi, I have just bought an Aaton ltr7 super16mm. Unfortunately it was set to standard 16 and I have to set it to s16, and it seems not to be the same super16 conversion as described in the usermanual, but i can not be sure, because of the bad illustrations of this manual. I managed to shift the groundglass and the lensmount (the lensmout I just loosened the upper 2 screws and shifted it as much to the motorside as possible and refastened the screws, in the manual this operation sounded totaly different). What I could not do is shift the viewefinder, so I do not see very well the right angle of the super16area. I belive that on my camera it is not possible to shift the viewefinder, how can I understand wether or not the camera has ben modified for this operation? A foto of this detal of an ltr7 where this can be done would be of great help.
  16. Hi, I have just bought an Aaton ltr7 super16mm. Unfortunately it was set to standard 16 and I have to set it to s16, and it seems not to be the same super16 conversion as described in the usermanual, but i can not be sure, because of the bad illustrations of this manual. I managed to shift the groundglass and the lensmount (the lensmout I just loosened the upper 2 screws and shifted it as much to the motorside as possible and refastened the screws, in the manual this operation sounded totaly different). What I could not do is shift the viewefinder, so I do not see very well the right angle of the super16area. I belive that on my camera it is not possible to shift the viewefinder, how can I understand wether or not the camera has ben modified for this operation? A foto of this detal of an ltr7 where this can be done would be of great help.
  17. Hi, I have just bought an Aaton ltr7 super16mm. Unfortunately it was set to standard 16 and I have to set it to s16, and it seems not to be the same super16 conversion as described in the usermanual, but i can not be sure, because of the bad illustrations of this manual. I managed to shift the groundglass and the lensmount (the lensmout I just loosened the upper 2 screws and shifted it as much to the motorside as possible and refastened the screws, in the manual this operation sounded totaly different). What I could not do is shift the viewefinder, so I do not see very well the right angle of the super16area. I belive that on my camera it is not possible to shift the viewefinder, how can I understand wether or not the camera has ben modified for this operation? A foto of this detal of an ltr7 where this can be done would be of great help.
  18. Hi, the Pentaflex 16 or AK-16 is a ceap (because old) but great camera. it has an shuterangle from 180° to 0° which you can set to any angle you desire even wile shooting. it has quickcange magazines for 30m or 60m (120m mags are very rare and I have seen only once on). it has a 3 lens turret and komes with a 12mm a 25mm and a 50mm lens. it is not for sound film. an operating set costs at ebay between 255$ and 500$ some bolex cameras have a changable shutterangle as the SBM (from 135° to 0°) but they cost more and you can fix it only at 3 steps.
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