Helge Landgraf

That is not correct! If you set the Nizo 561 to light bulb, the E100D would be exposed as 160 ASA, since the E100D has the same speed notch like a 160T film. http://www.peaceman.de/blog/index.php/super-8-notch-ruler-new-and-improved The Nizo large silver cameras (561, 481, 801, Professional) remove the filter correctly in case you put in a daylight film regardless of the external switch, this is correct. But since they cannot distinguish between a tungsten film set to tungsten light (filter removed by external switch) and a daylight film that removes the filter by itself, you have to set the external switch to daylight in order to expose it like a 100ASA.

No problem! There is no rush once you start talking about analogue film ?

Hello, I'm new to this forum, however I might be able to provide a proposal for a more simple solution. Just attach a triggerable pulse mode frequency generator like this one to the camera's flash socket: "PWM Impulse WSFG-06 20mA High Accuracy Signal Generator Multifunctional Adjustable Module for Pulse Mode" from Jeanoko (~30$). It will generate a 1000Hz Impulse on every picture. Connect it's output to a free input of your digital audio recorder (if it has only 2 you'll have to sacrifice stereo sound for now). Now set the output level of the little generator pretty high. Also set the trigger on your digital recorder for that input (if separately possible, if not also ok) pretty high and set it for automated recording, triggered by the input. I have a Tascam DR40 with 4 channels, I sacrificed one of the additional microphone inputs for that. Also I did set the pre-recording to 2 seconds, means that the digital recorder will always have 2 seconds of sound recorded before the actual trigger event, which avoids that upon starting the camera anything could be lost. By using that generator and by using 1000Hz pulses (1 for ea picture) you are gaining a lot of benefits: - You don not need to deal with any electronics that can actually mimic the protocol needed to trigger the real remote or any fooling with the record button or similar - you just do not need any of those neither do you need to start the recorder manually - You are now compatible with a lot of sync appliances available for syncing sound and picture upon projection (in case you consider projection), like the Visacustic system - Using an audio editing tool like Audacity allows you to cut your recording (eliminating the recorded areas between actual takes) and to evaluate the number of pictures vs time I use the Tascam DR40 together with a Nizo S8 camera (Nizo Professional) that has already an output of one 1000Hz pulse per frame, and it works fine.