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Joel Hanson Li

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Everything posted by Joel Hanson Li

  1. Ah okay, then the focus ring is perfect - and I found why there isn't a marker for the focus ring, because there is one at the front of the lens just before the aperture ring, that marker lines up with the one my adapter. Before, without knowing where the focus mark was I couldn't know where the 3 ft mark was; I just did try it out, and indeed it lines up but slightly off, then I knew to adjust my back focus abit. This was incredibly helpful information thanks!
  2. I just tested it out, and I found interestingly that on one end, both Metric and Imperial scales match up nicely at the Infinity mark with the red line on the adapter; and on the other end (closest focus distance), I can rotate beyond the last marker (FT and M marks in this case). Is it supposed to work like this? If it is, and I'm trying to set focus at 3 feet, I can just rotate the ring till '3' aligns with the red line on the adapter? I'm not clear if the last lens tech I sent it in to shifted the position/alignment of the focus ring.
  3. Ah, I actually have this one (I reckon it's the one from Duclos Lens?) and it indeed has a red line than runs through the middle - I take it that the red line is the focus marker, and it doesn't matter which slot I've fitted the adapter's tab in? (there are two slots parallel to each other)
  4. I own one of these beautiful lenses along with a CSP 32mm as well, but mechanically they are different - I use it fine for sure on my GEMINI in manual focus, and I use it wide open at 1.7, which understandably make the image soft. However, I just wanted to make sure that the backfocus on my GEMINI isn't off and contributing to the softness, but for the life of me I've never figured out where the focus marker is on the lens. The aperture marker is evident enough, just not the focus marker. This is not my lens per se, but it is the same and I am linking the video for reference.
  5. You make a really good point on not adjusting the backfocus for the 18mm alone and potentially making other focal lengths and other lenses not fit! I'll have to try figure out the "default" backfocus for Arri PL standard on RED DSMC2, if it comes to that - but I'll probably run another test of the 32mm and 50mm on the DRAGON before I tweak the backfocus. Thanks for the suggestion! I worked with them as cam operator under their production house before, but I never knew they also do lens servicing. Good to know!
  6. Oh wow thanks for the in depth response! Sadly, I don't know of any lens technicians in Singapore where I am, though I suppose I can ask around. Theoretically, assuming the lens is correctly collimated (it came from a Japan community seller who claimed on the listing that the lens has been pulled from a working environment, serviced and kept in almost mint condition; but I understand that's not to say it's collimated), then adjusting the backfocus on my DRAGON might make a difference to the issue I'm facing, yes? I could check if the adapter is fitted on properly, I think it's snapped in, but I could give it another nudge probably. I did try stopping down a couple stops and it did get sharper, but I thought it wasn't a long term solution because I always shoot wide open, and I thought that sharpening to be something that happens anyway whenever lenses go down a couple stops.
  7. As title states, I'm having problems with infinity focus on my 18mm Cooke Speed Panchro f1.7 (Arri-S mount, no rehoused) on my RED DRAGON 6K (WEAPON), and there could be a number of factors in play I was hoping someone could shed a light on the most likely issue. The "symptom" (or issue) I'm facing is when turned to infinity, the image is currently out of focus (it's not soft like focusing past infinity, it's actually out of focus - not totally so, but it seems to be focused on a plane before infinity). There are a few things in play here which I will state below (which I think any of which could be causing the issue). (1) I have a RafCamera Arri-S to Arri PL adapter fit on. I'm not new to this adapter, and I'm using 2 of these for my Cooke Speed Panchro 32mm and Cooke Kinetal 50mm respectively on RED GEMINI and RED KOMODO and they work okay, no issue at all. They focus fine to infinity, and focus ring is smooth. However, with this newest lens and adapter I got, without the adapter on, the focus turns quite fine as well; once the adapter is on, the focus ring is noticeably a little bit more resistant to turning (but still turn-able with a follow focus unit). (2) The 18mm CSP seems mechanically different to my existing 32mm CSP and 50mm Cooke Kinetal. The 18mm I noticed has 2 rings, one for focus, one for aperture. The 32mm CSP and 50mm Kinetal does not have a seperate ring for Aperture, and aperture is adjusted by turning the front of the lens. (I'm not sure if this is even a factor, I'm simply stating an observation). (3) My RED DRAGON 6K has a Low Light Optimized OLPF (filter) fit on. I just took over this unit, and it comes with Low Light Optimized OLPF - I'm in the midst of getting the Skin Tone Highlight OLPF instead (because I don't shoot Low Light), and I've kinda read that Low Light generally can affect infinity focus, though again, I'm not sure if it actually causes inifnity focus to go off this much. (4) I'm not sure if my RED DRAGON 6K has had its backfocus adjusted. The backfocus may have been adjusted for the previous lenses it housed, but I'm not sure and I can't really check because the seller was a production house that has clocked over 3.3K hours on the unit, and they've used it with other cameras for multiple productions and shoots - they don't really remember if they did adjust the backfocus on the unit. Although, does backfocus affect infinity focus? That one, I'm not sure. (5) My RED DRAGON 6K uses the older Titanium PL Mount. I'm not sure if this is even a consideration, but it simply is an observation against my RED GEMINI which uses the (newer) Magnesium PL Mount - as far as I know, the difference between the two PL mounts is only in terms of make and weight, but I'm not sure. I'm not looking for the one solution at this stage, but I was hoping to save some time hopefully if I could get help and eyes from more experienced shooters on what might be the most likely culprit as to what's happening here. Thanks in advance!
  8. Okay I can confirm Raf's adapter does work well - I didn't realose I needed to push back the lens into the adapter until a 'pop' is heard.
  9. Hey Raf, I got one of your adapters and I'm trying to fit it on my Cooke Speed Panchro 32mm S2 (Arri S) - it fits, but it also slides out way too easily, and it fact, when I turn the focus ring using follow focus after mounting on rig, the lens slides out of the adapter slightly. Am I doing something wrong here?
  10. If I'm using a 32mm Speed Panchro on A-CAM, will the Kinetal 50mm behave (FOV wise) the same as a 50mm Speed Panchro, or will it be more like a 100mm Speed Panchro (because Kinetals are Super 16 lenses)?
  11. I know it looks unusual - the lens itself sits snugly in the brass helical, and which seems to be screwed into the supposed Arri S mount - it doesn't look like the lens head fits in the lens mount, and it definitely does not look like the usual known Arriflex mount Cooke Speed Panchros listed - and if turns out to not fit and just be a lens head I bought, I'd have to spend another 4K USD and a 1 year wait to get it rehoused before using. Dilemma! Wow this whole shimming business sounds like quite a science by itself - here's hoping my lens+adapter idea (albeit it being 2 adapters) work!
  12. I'm very familiar with Primes since they are what I mainly use in my work, but not so with cine zooms - this idea of using shims is mostly only for correcting cine zoom lenses right, not so much for primes?
  13. Yes, I found the first one a little weird with the protrusions, and though it seems like the Rafcamera Arri S - PL adapter might still fit, I think the second one one might be a safer bet to get just because it looks alot more familiar to me. Les Bosher's mount looks solid, but last I checked it's almost 3 - 4 times the price of Rafcamera's adapter! My plan is to fit the Speed Panchro Series II with an Arri S - PL adapter, then fit it on a PL to RF adapter (DZOFilm's one) before mounting on the RED KOMODO (Super35) - there shouldn't be any problems about cropping or such right?
  14. Lens On Left I think the golden screw like mount was for screwing into this supposed mount - it says it's "Arriflex Standard Mount" which I assumed was the Arr-S mount. It also additionally said it used to sit on an Arriflex 16, if that helps? Lens On Right This is the only side profile I'm seeing. Both of these are Cooke Speed Panchro Series IIs.
  15. Wow thank you for the very detailed explanation! I suspected the second one to be Arri S as well but I was thrown off by the presence of 2 grooves when I though I should just be seeing one groove - also, the listing itself said Arri S in the description, but Arri Bayonet in the item specifications. Anyhow, here are more pictures of both. Lens On Left Lens On Right
  16. I'm new to looking at vintage lenses, and I'm super excited to be picking up my first set soon - but these mounts have got me stumped. I've looked up Google as much as I can, and there's just not a whole lot I can find visually on the difference between Arr-S and Arri-B mounts - I intend to get a converter to PL mount so I can mount on my KOMODO, but I want to make sure I'm getting the right converter. From what I know, Arri-S camera mounts have a thing sticking out one side that will hold the lens in place; Arri-B mounts have a two sided twist and lock mechanism. These above are two different listings I'm looking at, but I'm just not sure is this Arri-S or Arri-B I'm looking at (especially with that funny screw thing for the lens on the left). Some help please?
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