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Joe Taylor

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Posts posted by Joe Taylor

  1. The way I've always done it going back to my film days, is the lens support post screws directly into the mounting collar on the lens (most of the time) and when correctly balanced the setup will slide smoothly right up to the mount and positively lock with no friction or force needed when properly aligned.  You should be able to test the weight and setup by loosening the mount from the rods and it will slide right back perfectly balanced.

    Afterwards, you'll probably be quite pleased with yourself and you'll walk off and go have a beer and brag up a storm about how awesome your lens balancing skills are and so forth. 

  2. Expanding a bit more on movies as good examples where a "warming" look was chivied either through filtration or combination of timing, I've been looking for scenes from particular films where that look really stood out.  Apocalypse Now has some very rich scenes that are very "warm."  Since AN was shot many years before Di I'm wondering if that might have been achieved in post?  It looks like a #3 Antique with even a Chocolate Combo.  Does anybody know?  The Proposition, Australian western from 2005 also has several shots that have a very rich "warming" effect.  I have a American Cinematographer from 2005 but there's not mention of filtration effects.   The first mention of the Antique Suede, which made me make a special stop at Abel Cine in 2000 to buy a 3x3 AS #1, was the mention of their use in "George Washington."  I loved that look and wanted it for a look I was going for in the first 35mm film I made straight out of college.

    My "Antique Suede" looks I'm getting today are simply a bit warmer with the color temp with a touch of green.  Works wonders.  But I am much more interested in how it was done in the day of chemical releases.  

     

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  3. Up for Sale are absolutely BRAND NEW and NEVER USED Sony NP-FZ100 Battery and Sony BC-QZ1 Battery Charger.

    Both of these items just arrived with a Sony A7R III Camera Package.

    Removed from packaging just moments ago for photos and promptly placed back in original packaging.

    $130 for Both or BEST OFFER + $7.00 Shipping

    Feel Free to text at 702.289.9618 or message me here.

    Battery New from B&H is $78.00

    Selling for $60

    Charger New from B&H is $88.00

    Selling for $70

     

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  4. Wow, Robert Hart. There's a world of info in those posts and I'm very appreciative. I'll go through them again tonight when I get home to try and glean some of the 99% of what went way over my head just now.

     

    I had thought about doing trying to get a shot using the ground glass off an old 4x5 speed graphic, but it needs to be telephoto.

     

    There's a lot of good ideas and suggestions all around. Another reason I want to try and do this all "in-camera" simply because it's fun and I have the time before we shoot on the 23rd. But I will shoot a couple of takes that are clean in case I can get more realistic results in post. The one thing I am not after is something that looks stupid, which is what often happens when people take too firm of a stand.

  5. Get some very cheap, thin diffraction grating material and cut a ring out of it to just go around the inside 1/4 of the lens; a doughnut shape. Might have to experiment with ring thickness and edge roughness to make it subtle enough. Shouldn't take much...

     

    https://www.amazon.com/Sheets-Diffraction-Gratings-Lines-inch/dp/B07D9K1582/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1538970309&sr=8-14&keywords=diffraction+grating+sheet

     

    That should give you some weird aberrations...

     

    Maybe you could remove the front lens element and find an arrowhead maker to knapp the element; chip it up on the edge and then replace it. Not hard to remove those front elements...

    Those are really cool! Great idea!

  6. I'm going to be filming a scene for a western where a character is being pursued on a dry lake-bed where those giving chase are perhaps a half-mile behind. The lead character pulls out an old spyglass to gauge their position and I want to degrade the image and make it both interesting and realistic and I want to do this all "in-camera." I'm likely going to stack some old filters, (one is a pitted Black ProMist and the other is a 4x5 filter I made from a 150-year-old window. I'll likely use an old Canon FD telephoto zoom at f22 @ 100mm. This added depth of field will make the debris on the filters more pronounced.

     

    Can anybody suggest anything else I can do to scuzz up the image to make it interesting? I've even thought of putting a thin coat of greenish motor oil with flakes of hair and other stuff, but I could be taking this too far by doing that.

     

    Love to hear some suggestions. Should be fun.

  7. https://www.ebay.com/itm/292720234241?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

     

     

    Up for auction is a brand new Sony BC-QZ1 Battery Charger for the Sony A9, A7R III, A7 III camera line.
    This Sony Charger is absolutely brand new and never used. Charger came with my new Sony A7R III
    camera. B&H sell these new for $88.00 I'm asking $70.
    I am also selling/auctioning a brand new Sony NP-FZ100 Battery that is brand new and fully
    compatible with this Battery Charger.

     

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  8. https://www.ebay.com/itm/292720203530?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

     

    Up for auction is a brand new, unopened Sony NP-FZ100 battery for the Sony A9, A7R III, A7 III camera line.

    I bought this battery brand-new from B&H in July. B&H sells these for $78.00 I'm asking $60.
    I am also selling/auctioning a brand new Sony BC-QZI Battery Charger that is fully compatible with this battery.

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  9. https://www.ebay.com/itm/292669611124?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

     

    Up for auction is an Eastman Model 2D 8x10 View Camera that is in fantastic physical and functional condition and with a modern or even vintage 8x10 sheet film holders this camera can go right to work today. Or if you are so inclined this camera would make an excellent candidate for a frame down restoration project. I bought this camera in 2004 and used it to photograph Colorado ghost towns with b&w negative and color chrome films and it has always operated perfectly.

    From what little novice research I've done for this camera, I have dated it in the 1920's - mid 1930's. I believe the Model 2D was made up into the late 1940s.
    The lens is a Bausch & Lomb-Zeiss TESSAR Series 1C with glass that is remarkable for its age with a nice crisp shutter for 1/4 sec shutters speeds and faster. For :01 - :03 sec speeds, the spring shutters are sticky and slow.
    The bellows are completely intact with no lights-leaks of any kind and ground viewing glass is perfect. All the movements and nice and smooth and lock into place as they should.
    If you have any further questions and would like more pictures feel free to message me here and I will get back to you.

     

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  10. I actually would be really tempted, as Phil mentioned, to make "gas light" maybe a mixture of full plus green or lime and some yellow-- maybe even rosco 2003

    I'd love to test these ideas too, but i won't have time. I'm in Vegas and finding gels-- well, I might as well road trip to Burbank. I can get some them from B&H but they have a 7-14 day order period. I can medium straw from JR lighting here in Vegas.

  11. There's an interesting bit of historic lighting technology involved here which might actually mean the gas light would be - believe it or not - greenish, so you can motivate something really odd if you want to. Gas lights of the late 19th century used mantles doped with rare-earth metals (much like those in the phosphors used in LEDs and fluorescent tubes) which emit a lot of visible light when heated, and not much infrared light. That makes for better efficiency, but it means that the light isn't being produced solely by incandescence. That is, it's not just glowing because it's hot, or at least it is mainly glowing because it's hot, but it glows in an unusual way. See candoluminescence.

     

    Early types looked greenish. Later ones looked less green, but gas mantles made to this day still look slightly... well... minty.

     

    P

    Hey Phil. The history here is indeed fascinating. I'm trying to think of movies I've seen with gas lightning and Elephant Man is the only one that comes to mind-- and I'm sure you know that it's not helping much. But I appreciate your contribution here. (I think if I went for accuracy it might actually confuse most people.) Still though, I really want that nice rich "flame" effect.

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